Brake grease or never seize

300jk

Well-known Member
Working on my 2012 dodge 2500 brakes because they are hanging up from not being driven while I had some engine work done. Pads, rotors, and calipers seem fine. Problem seems to be the two bolts holding the caliper in the holder are gummed up along with where the pads fit in the caliper. Appears the last person used some type of grease, and it gummed everything up. I have used never seize in the past and someone just told me not to use never seize. Opinions ?
 

I assume you are taking about the slides...

If someone put Permatex 24125 the purple lube on the pins it has swollen the rubber seals/slides its you will need to replace the caliper hardware and pin slide/seals... Believe me I know : (...

I use CRC 05353 its metal/rubber and plastic safe... It tells ya on the can what its safe for but who reads the info...
 
Yeah I do know it can dry out ! I have used in the past without problems, but since I have both I guess I’ll probably try the synthetic CRC brake grease I have. I’ve never had these brakes off in the last 2 years I’ve owned it. Apparently who ever did the maintenance in the past did not believe in any type of grease on anything. Major fight just getting it apart !
 
I do also have a can of that. It’s CRC can’t find the number in
it, but says good for all brake applications . Just wasn’t sure if
one was better than the other !
 
I don't remember what brake component that I bought, but it can with a lubricant. You might ask at the parts store if they sell it separately. I would think that they would have it.
 
use high temp brake grease.

you can get it at any reputable autoparts store.

you want something that can take the heat and stay in place.
 
I am guessing the CRC brake and caliper grease is what your meaning. I do have it, just seems real sticky. It’s synthetic and for brakes.
 
I have been using marine boat trailer wheel bearing grease--haven't had a problem in 20 years--but just make sure you clean the slide pins really good
 
A friend did his brakes on his 2012 Suburban last May and used never sieze (copper) on his. Within 6 weeks he was having problems. He asked a neighbor who is a Ford technician and was told there is a special ‘grease’ to be used on a moving parts of the caliper. Neighbor helped him the following weekend cleaning up the copper stuff, no easy task, and using NAPA brand brake ‘grease’. No more problems.
 
I have had sticky brake pads on my 07 dodge 2500. I filed the notch in the pads so they can move with the wheel rotation maybe .025 or .030". Once or twice a week or when I think of it I will apply the brakes sort of hard while backing up, the idea is if they can move a bit now and then they won't rust up solid. Then the next time I stop in the forward direction the pads will move in that direction. I haven't noticed and ratels or any other problem. Been a few years since I freed up the pads the last time and did this so I am thinking it works.
 

I missed the part about "where the pads fit in the caliper" if he meant caliper bracket my story...

I did a complete brake job on a Subaru for a customers son that lives in Canada. I did my usual nice and clean where the pads mount into the caliper bracket. He got stuck here this summer he could not get back into Canada. He stopped by and told just how good the brakes where when he picked it up BUT they were not working well now he had put 6K on it. We don't see the rust issues folks have in the rust belt I pulled the wheels the pads were stuck in the mount WTF I had to hammer them out.

I had to re-do the hole job I lubed them up well this time : )
 
The HELMS factory service manuals for my F-250 say to use Di-elelectric grease like you use on spark plug wires to keep the plug boots from sticking to the spark plugs or wires from sticking to the distributor cap. It eventually disappears, pull front tires, wire brush everything clean, reapply grease and reassemble. It's real thin, like Vaseline.
 

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