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Ford 641

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What spark plug was installed in the Ford 641 when it was brand new? I have seen so many supposed plug applications. I am working on a 641 that has Autolite 216 plugs. It continues to diesel on when it is hot and is switched off. Checked timing. I am wondering if this plug is too hot. Autolites are not much good now that they are made China.
 
I am not sure but I believe the 216 is the factory equivalent, it is a colder plug . the
437 Autolite is the hotter alternate.
 

Hmm? Curious! I am having a dieseling problem and wants to boil over if the rad is filled. I have to advance the timing beyond the 7 dg mark to keep it from being so bad. I am working on this for a customer and it has me confounded. I had to replace a blown head gasket on it and lapped the valves while I was in there so I know that internally, there is no carbon.
 
Since carbon is not the answer, there are two rel=maining. One is Idle speed, Set it as low as you can keep it running. the other is octane It might need medium
octane fuel ~90 Jim
 
Is the radiator just running over from being too full or actually boiling?

A carburetor that is adjusted too lean will cause an engine to run toward the warm/hot side, but I doubt a lean condition would cause it to boil if the cooling system is working properly.

My 65 Massey will diesel if you don't give it two or three minutes to settle it's feathers after a heavy load.
 
Dieseling is cause by hot spots in the engine and the spark plug have very little to do with that problem. But my self I use NGK3112 plugs in all my Fords. One thing you can do to help clean out the hot spots is run a quart of ATF in 5 gal of gas. Also if you idle it down and let it run a minute or so before shutting it off that helps to
 

Interesting. I never heard of putting ATF in the gas. I have to go back and recheck the timing and the idle speed, so I'll think on that.

This owner also has a 640 Ford running Champion H-12 plugs and never has a dieseling problem.

My old '47 2-N runs best on H-12's than any other, which seems strange, but it is what it is.
 

It is probably just expanding, but the rad tank cannot be filled as it will blow out the overflow until it gets about half-way down the tank, which is fine. However, improper timing can cause overheating as well.
 

If it always pushes coolant out and the tank is always about that half full level when it cools, that alone is not a sign of overheating. Tank half full is where it should be when cold to allow for expansion, don't top it off. and see if it stays in that range.

You talk about it overheating but nowhere here do you give a temperature seen when "overheating". Is there a temperature gauge on the tractor? Even with a gauge have you checked it with a temp gun to see what that shows for a temperature?

Are you using a tach when adjusting idle speed? Are you using a light when adjusting timing?
 
(quoted from post at 09:04:37 11/24/20)
If it always pushes coolant out and the tank is always about that half full level when it cools, that alone is not a sign of overheating. Tank half full is where it should be when cold to allow for expansion, don't top it off. and see if it stays in that range.

You talk about it overheating but nowhere here do you give a temperature seen when "overheating". Is there a temperature gauge on the tractor? Even with a gauge have you checked it with a temp gun to see what that shows for a temperature?

Are you using a tach when adjusting idle speed? Are you using a light when adjusting timing?
Click to expand...

I am using my timing light ant specs call for 7 degrees, but it runs on badly at that setting and have had to advance timing/adjust mixture/adjust idle to get a safe run. I need to replace my temp gun, and will recheck after Thanksgiving.
 
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