Ford 4000 replacing rear axle seal

Bill from Scotland · Nov 19, 2020

So ive just replaced the right axle seal and wheel bearing with good success. I now doing the left side axle (as seen while seated on tractor) problem though is that I cannot seem to manage to slacken the half shaft cap screw so end result I cannot remove it to replace the seal. Having put a huge amount of pressure on the cap screw (long extension on socket) and it hasnt budged Im wondering if it might be an anti-clockwise thread. What you guys think? Any thoughts or suggestions welcome.

MarkB_MI · Nov 19, 2020

I'm not familiar with your tractor, Bill; my 4000 is a row crop. But US left-hand thread fasteners can usually be identified by markings on the bolt head or nut. If the bolt heads are identical on both sides, they're probably both right hand thread.

You say you're using a "long" socket wrench. How long? You might need a five or six foot "cheater bar" to get enough torque. (This is when you find out how good that "lifetime" warranty is.) Do you have an impact wrench or oxyacetylene torch? One or the other will usually free up a frozen fastener without breaking it. Good luck.

chuck machinist · Nov 19, 2020

Ditto on Mark‘s comment, Kroil oil, Let it soak then heat the nut. Don’t let the heat go to the bolt. Easier said than done I know. CM

Bill from Scotland · Nov 19, 2020

Yes mine would be classed a row crop tractor not exactly the same as you guys but similar. Ill check out the bolt heads tomorrow. Yes I've got a 1.5m bar on it.

Texasmark1 · Nov 19, 2020

When I was in industry, the machinists used Kroil penetrating aerosol too. I keep a can in the shop for the really tough jobs since it's pricey......but it works.........

On stubborn bolts/nuts, I always use impact, intensity set per the size of the fastener. One thing that somebody said and works is to try to screw the fastener in tighter a bit then go for the backing out. Other thing is back and forth, back and forth, etc., till it starts to turn. If you can get it out far enough to get some thread showing, get some Kroil on the exposed thread and run the bolt back in the hole then back out a couple of times to get some PO on more of the threads.

Last use heat to break the structure of the oxidized iron.

MarkB_MI · Nov 19, 2020

OK, if I understand correctly, you have a four cylinder row crop tractor, same as mine. With final drives on the axle ends. Interestingly, although I replaced the right-hand seal on mine, I never did the left. I thought the left was leaking but after I got the wheel off there was no sign of a leak. I have the seal hanging on my wall if I ever need it.

When you say you're trying to loosen the "cap screw", do you mean the nut on the inner end of the stub axle? I'm pretty sure it's not left-hand threaded. It looks like it has a cotter key, so it shouldn't need a left-hand thread. And the parts diagram doesn't indicate different right and left parts for the axle and nut. Unfortunately, CNH removed the part numbers and descriptions for all parts that they no longer sell, so I can't be 100 percent certain of it.

Just to be clear, the link below should take you to the row crop rear axle breakdown. The nut is item 29.
Ford 4 Cylinder 4000 Row Crop Rear Axle

Ford 4000 replacing rear axle seal

Bill from Scotland

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MarkB_MI

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chuck machinist

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Bill from Scotland

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Texasmark1

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MarkB_MI

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