Farmall H Distibutor Problem

Hello, I have a 1946 H with a vertical distributor. I am not getting any spark. The wire that goes from the distributor coil to the distributor is not getting any power when it is connected to the distributor, however if I disconnect it from the distributor the wire will read 6.14 volts at both sides. The wire that goes from the ignition switch to the distributor coil is getting 5.87 volts when the coil-distributor wire is connected, and when it's not it also reads 6.14 volts. My thought is that the distributor is grounding itself somehow.

The coil is relatively new, and it looks to be the same thing with the distributor cap.

Any suggestions?

You are correct, the wire from the coil is shorted to ground.

Could be the points not opening.

Shorted condenser.

Points incorrectly connected.

The wire shorted to the distributor case where it passes through.

If your checking voltage and the points are closed you will get little to no volts since the circuit is being grounded out by the points being closed. If the points are open you should read battery voltage

I also tried turning it over and reading the volts so I don't think that is the problem. Would electronic ignition be something that helps with this? The tractor has always had a hard time starting, no matter the temperature outside or if you just shut it off.

ok simple test here,... with ignition switch on use a small screw driver to open the points you should hear and see a spark. make sure the points are clean and set to .020. and when doing this test make sure the points are closed.

Most meters are not fast enough to read voltage at the coil when your spinning the engine over. As for being hard to start that can be many things.
#1 Carb problem can cause hard starting
#2 point gap being incorrect can cause that
#3 Timing being off
#4 low compression
#5 valve adjustment

And there is likely to be many more including a starter drawing to many amp that in turn robs the system of a strong spark

You need an Ohm Meter to check to see if the wire is grounded to the the distributor with the points open. You also need to check to see if the spring side of the points is grounded to the distributor body when the points are open. When points are closed, they and the coil wire are grounded to the distributor.

I had a hard starting 46H in my shop a few years ago. Starting removing and replacing all the old original wiring and patch repairs. Run all new wires, larger gauge than original. Starter draw and poor wires and connections caused the ignition system to not get adequate voltage to start correctly. Ofcourse you could have other problems but that solved the hard starting 46 in my shop. gobble

Your vertical distributor is almost certainly a Delco that was sold/installed as an aftermarket attachment.

If you are observing this with the breaker points OPEN something is shorted, could be the condenser, or the feed-through terminal where the low tension wire from the coil connects to the distributor or (RARELY) a shorted coil.

If you are observing this with the breaker points CLOSED it is normal, that's how ignition systems work.

23 To find the cause of no spark work through my Troubleshooting Procedure linked below, heres a start:

NOTE The coils output terminal (to distributor not from switch) is wired to the points and when closed they short out the coil output to ground so it conducts current. That should ONLY happen when good working points are CLOSED but when NOT (points open) there would be approximate battery voltage on the coils output HOWEVER if there's a short (see below or coils LV primary were bad/open) you wouldn't read voltage there. If its always zero there (should only be when points are closed) there's a short, see below:

1) COILS "INPUT" VOLTAGE (wire from Ignition switch)

If the ignition is ON and all is okay ?? there would be approximate battery voltage on the coils small input terminal.

2) COILS "OUTPUT" VOLTAGE (wire/terminal from coil to distributor)

a) IF POINTS CLOSED (as normally are engine not running) there should be near zero volts (IE there's a short circuit to ground)

b) IF POINTS OPEN there should be approximately battery voltage

3) If you turn on the ignition and crank the engine over with a test lamp on the coils output (to distributor) it should flash ON (when points open) and OFF (when points closed)

4) Ifffffffff with ign on and working the voltage on the coils output to distributor terminal is ALWAYS NEAR ZERO (should ONLY be when
points closed) there's a closed circuit/short such as:

a) Distributors side pass through insulated terminal (where wire from coil attaches) is shorted out (seen it happen) an ohm meter or
continuity tester can find that

b) Points are NOT opening (closed shut) see if they open and close when dist turns??

c) Points (sometimes spring) are shorted out

d) Condensor (or its wire) is shorted out

Check the wiring and especially the dist side pass through insulator terminal for a short,,,,,,,,,,,insure condensor wire isnt shorted to case,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,insure condensor isnt bad/shorted,,,,,,,,,,,insure points open and close,,,,,,,,,,,,,insure points arent shorted out

Try my Troubleshooting Procedure linked below

John T
John Ts Ignition Troubleshooting

your questions:

I also tried turning it over and reading the volts so I don't think that is the problem.

Instead of a volt meter place a 6 volt test lamp on the coils output and crank her over. The light should flash ON when points are open but go OFF when closed........ A volt meter (subject to type and accuracy and speed and damping) if cranked slowly would read near battery voltage when points are open but near zero when closed

Would electronic ignition be something that helps with this?

An elec ignition replaces the points and condensor but Id just try to fix what you have first

SEE MY POST ABOVE

John T