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gear pulling struggle

E

elijahearnestfarmall

Member
Evening gents,
Worked on the engine for the Huber today (the unit is a waukesha model N). Scraped the caked on oil, brushed with diesel, removed the oil pan and attempted to remove the gear on the water pump shaft. However, the darned thing refuses to budge. We used a puller + break-free-juice + heat, all at the same time, with no results. The puller ended up breaking a few teeth so we held off on the puller. Planning on just spraying it with PB blaster for a while.

On a better note, we went to mark the teeth on all the gears for timing references and actually found the original marks. I just find it amazing that someone was doing exactly what I was doing 100 years ago! Felt really connected to the tractor today lol.

If anybody has any suggestions or knows anybody that has worked on these engines, any pointers or directions are welcome.

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Elijah,

I wouldn't know a Waukesha or a Huber if it bit me, so, I'm not offering any advice of any kind here. Just a story about a gear from a long time ago.

I was working on a lawnmower and I wanted to get the flywheel off to check the points. I put my gear puller on it and pulled, oiled, heated all to no
avail. I eventually broke the flywheel from tugging and tapping on it when I realized that the flywheel was actually threaded onto the crank shaft.
I unscrewed what was left of it and bought a new flywheel to replace the mess I had made. So, I'm not suggesting in any way that your gear might be
threaded onto the shaft that it is currently on - - just an anecdote from one of my experiences from long ago.

Good luck on you project.

Tom in TN
 
(quoted from post at 20:26:55 11/07/20)
Click to expand...

What retains the gear in place, did you remove a nut next to it?

If NOT, did you consider the fact that the gear and shaft may be threaded?
 
Looks like you are doing the right thing. I think if you put the puller jaws a little to the outside of the gear, and a little offset with with the threaded part of the puller. You will be pulling on the center of the gear, and not near the gear teeth. I think using a lot of heat on the center of the gear wouldn't hurt anything. get the puller real tight maybe a sharp blow with a heavy hammer also. Stan
 
There was a nut on the end of the shaft that we removed (put back on partially to keep the puller from expanding the end of the shaft.)

The gear is keyed to the shaft. And the key way on the shaft does not go past the gear, so we cannot punch the key through.
 
My only suggestion would be to hear it a
couple of times, gear puller not needed,
to help crush any rust on the shaft. Then
once cool, great in a straight line from
the center through one of the holes all
the way to the outside. That metal will
expand which forces the bow to open up
slightly. Think of the dies that you put a
screw point in to hold open when you
tighten the die holding screws.. With the
puller on, give it a good smack with a 3-5
lb sledge, it just might break loose.
 
I know nothing about a Huber but I have had several Waukeshas apart and I think taking those gears off as you are is almost impossible. If
you look at the two big gears they have three hole on them, generally if you turn the gears and look through the gear holes you will see a
bearing retainer plate held on by three bolts. Remove the bolts and then you can take the gear and the shaft out as a unit and then you
can use a press to remove the gear. The smaller gear and shaft probably can also be removed as a complete unit, look it over closely
before trying to use a puller. The crank gear will generally come off using a puller but may need heat. This is my suggestion from where I
am sitting and without actually being there and looking at it. But I feel sure you will find that a press is needed to remove the gears
without doing any damage.
 
Just a thought , I d turn the engine gears to the sun light ,or heat lamp . Cause you got to get the entire gear to expand , then shot some freeze off or
dry ice and alcohol bath to shrink the shaft . Then pull gears as close to shaft a possible to center line off shaft .
 
Tom ..... I think a keyway would indicate that it should be able to be pulled off and not threaded on, could you get a key into place with a threaded situation? Not sure about that. If it is just a key/keyway, then the gear/shaft is probably a tapered fit which can be pretty stubborn.
 
its a gear on a shaft and you need to warm up that gear with a torch to about 300 degrees then it will pull of. have one person heating and
one person ready with the pulley. also a fine tooth puller will pull more that those cheap course thread pullers. also 3 jaw puller is a
better deal. looks like you dont have the room there. and those are factory timing marks i would say.
 
Show Crop,have u seen a Posi Trac puller, there sold allover the USA, but started in Hope North Dakota as far as i know, u got one threaded thing to keep the jaws tight, and another fine threaded main shaft to do the pulling, i stripped the threads in one, or ruined it, but they are worth every penny you pay for them
 
(quoted from post at 12:20:18 11/08/20) Show Crop,have u seen a Posi Trac puller, there sold allover the USA, but started in Hope North Dakota as far as i know, u got one threaded thing to keep the jaws tight, and another fine threaded main shaft to do the pulling, i stripped the threads in one, or ruined it, but they are worth every penny you pay for them
Click to expand...

FastFarmal, I don't have many Snap On tools but one that I have is a puller set. There are a bunch of jaws, two main threaded rods with special ends, two spreaders, and two of the cross rods to keep the jaws tight. I have used it a lot and have pushed it very close to its limits a few times. I have put a cheater pipe on the cross rod nuts a couple times as well as on the main threaded rod, and you can see the evidence on the hex end of the large rod of it having been hit hard.
 
A car guy turned me on to this stuff called "Deep Creep" made by the same company as Seafoam. When heating stuff up it seems to do a way better job of loosening things than PB Blaster in my experience. Our though is the solution mush have some sort of wax in it, so when heated it will run into the crevasses.

Other thought, treat it like loosening an engine. Tighten the puller, spray with PB Blaster or whatever, walk away for a day. Come back tighten a little more, respray and walk away. Maybe one day it will pop. That's how my dad unstuck the motor on his JD B,
 
(quoted from post at 11:56:40 11/09/20) A car guy turned me on to this stuff called "Deep Creep" made by the same company as Seafoam. When heating stuff up it seems to do a way better job of loosening things than PB Blaster in my experience. Our though is the solution mush have some sort of wax in it, so when heated it will run into the crevasses.

Other thought, treat it like loosening an engine. Tighten the puller, spray with PB Blaster or whatever, walk away for a day. Come back tighten a little more, respray and walk away. Maybe one day it will pop. That's how my dad unstuck the motor on his JD B,
Click to expand...


Submit it to project farm on You tube for his next round of controlled comparison tests
 
I have a posi-trac puller. They hang in there, just watch how you adjust the jaw catch, sometimes you have to back it off and readjust. I chipped a tooth by not taking the time. After heating you can stick a candle to the shaft, it will cool it a little and wick into any space it can find.
 
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