O/T: '76 Dodge M882 light switches/wiring info?

This truck was delivered new to Selfridge Air National Guard base in Michigan. On 6/3/92, it was sold to my school with just under 57000 miles. It's now mine, with just under 69000 miles on the clock. North Adams is just a little bitty town; the school used it as a plow truck and I would surmise that the mileage is actual. :~)

Anyway... the plug on the headlight switch melted a little. There's a big multi-function switch added to the light wiring that was part of the 24v military conversion. It looks like it says D.C. Electronics, part number DC2750. Google isn't being helpful in finding documentation on how to test, verify wiring and actually use this thing. Some of the wiring that has been done over the years by the school's bus mechanic looks to be a little questionable. A couple small wires are cut off right at the bulkhead connector on the firewall; at the factory headlight switch, some of the added military light switch wires have been disconnected, others are still hooked up. It also has the infamous Dodge "melted amp gauge" issue and the wires have simply been connected together behind the dash.

Does anyone have info on how extensive the military wiring conversion was on these? Or can point me to some documentation for the extra light switch? Recommended amp gauge replacement?

Try Memphis Equipment, they are very helpful we've gotten many parts from them at my work, we have several old Military trucks and equipment.

I have one of those around here somewhere. But easily found on eBay or surplus. This one had some wiring pinout info.

https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/3-lever-light-switch-m3511131.html

Register at steelsoldiers dot com, site dedicated to any and all military vehicles, from most anywhere. Lots of knowledge and experience there, and links to military technical manuals.

If you just want to use the truck, and aren't concerned about correctness, just eliminate all the military wiring, and run it, that way.

As a side note, if you get sick of dealing with the Dodge ignition problems, you can do a complete electronic retrofit for under a hundred bucks. Details are on that site as well.

Very much appreciate the replies, found lots of good information. Thanks guys!

Hooked everything back up with a new headlight switch. The circuit breaker in the fuse box would start going nuts after several minutes. I had read somewhere from the info y'all gave that the dimmer switch on the floor could be problematic. Checked it and the wiring was warm. Everything seems to work fine as long as that's not screwed down to the floor, looks like I'll be replacing that next.

Again, many thanks for the help!