(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Allis Chalmers D-14 Intake/Exhaust Manifold

B

Bill1952

New User
I am restoring a 1957 D-14. I'm in the process of replacing the intake/exhaust manifold. The old manifold was held on with bolts, rather than studs. I bought a new manifold and studs from DJS. The short studs threaded into the engine with no problem. The long studs will only thread in about half the thread length on the stud. They are the same on both ends of the studs (3/8"-16). I'm thinking about buying a thread chaser to clean out the female threads in the engine. Any comments or advise?
Thanks,
Bill1952
 
Look at the bolts you took out of the head, and see how deep they were,It sure wouldn't hurt to run a tap in there and clean them out,and then a little compressed air!
 
As I recall- the original type studs had maybe 1/2" of threads on the inner end, and more threads on the outer end. The short threads were screwed into the head until they bottomed out. I suppose you could clean out the holes a little with a bottom tap. If you can get 1/2" of the new studs in, I would call that good enough. Use a high temp sealant on the threads as some of the holes go right into the water cavity.
 
I always run a bottom tap in all the holes when working on a head. Remember these are blind threaded holes. Put a small pin or bolt in the holes to check how deep the
hole is before forcing the bottom of the hole to break into the water jacket.
 
Yes, do chase the threads with a tap.

If you can't find a bottom tap, grind the end off a regular taper tap, but stop before grinding all the taper off.

Run the tap in until it stops, don't force it. Blow out the rust.

Same with the studs, take them in until they stop, don't force them. That area may be thin, don't want to break into the water jacket.
 
I prefer to make a thread chaser by
grinding cleaning grooves (like a tap) in
an appropriate bolt and then running that
bolt in and out. I have found that
sometimes a tap will make the threads too
loose for my liking.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
9N exhaust manifold studs
Replies
18
Views
1K
Shadowfax419
S
C
Carburetor Sizing and Manifold Modifications
Replies
6
Views
1K
CFS Carbs
C
O
A.C. D14 Block composition and broken manifold stud sock
Replies
5
Views
831
onetotaltoolman
O
M
New-to-me JD-A and JD-B Repair Tips
Replies
13
Views
868
Fixingfarmer
Fixingfarmer
R
Exhaust intake manifold
Replies
3
Views
566
Ruck
R
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top