Oil Viscosity

What viscosity oil is recommended for a Super C Farmall that is only used in parades like maybe 2 or3 hours /year Thanks

Most guys run strait 30wt or 15w 40 diesel oil.I prefer the diesel oil as it better suits old engines.

Rock

Agree Jim

it depends what oil pressure your engine runs at and the ambient temperature---hot climates heavier oil and cold climate thinner oil

X2

Amazing how so many people get all hot and bothered regarding oil viscosity . Yet if they are asked about the rating or class of the additive package . They have no idea .

yes for sure. and if that tractor has had the old oil in it and sludged up and not clean out, then asking for problems. hard to answer a one
question post with no info on the subject.

X3

Find the cheapest oil you can find on the shelf at any store, even The Dollar Store if they have it. It'll be many x's the oil that was in the premium oil section when that tractor was brand new.

I'm sure it was born with 30w oil. Little hard to find so I would probably use 10w-30

15-40 Delvac, and if you buy a couple of gallons and send in the rebate it's cheaper than dollar store oil! If you don't loose the rebate card like I think I just did!

I have no trouble getting 30W oil for my diesel Cats--i use Phillips 66 and Kendall

All kinds of straight weight Shell Rotella .

80W90.

Best thing to do is drop the oil pan. The tractor is at least 65 years old and its amazing what you'll find in the bottom in the pan - not just sludge. Its just something I do when I buy something that I don't know the history on - or in the case of my FIL tractor - knowing what it had been through made me drop the pan.

I have an old jeep which called for 30 and that is what I used for the first few years and it got to where I couldn't find it in my area so I put 5w-30 in it because it was what I had. Funny, it improved the oil pressure so I kept using it.

IHC Low ash engine oil is 30 weight, that's what i use in my 123 engine in my B.

A 15w-40 hd diesel oil as others have mentioned.

Has... extreme base additives to fight acid build up. These is very important in a tractor not run very much. This additive will mean you don't have to dump out good oil simply because its 6 months oil like the straight weight oils with little or no additive packages. The there is the additive to keep particles from clumping or anti clumping compounds.. These will keep the tractor from sledging up if the oil is not changed every 3 months... So again, your tractor will benefit from the hd oil package. This oil has a cling test where it means that some of the oil will cling to the bearings long long after the engine is turned off so you don't have dry start problems...Again, VERY important to a tractor that is not run everyday. Single weight oils do not have these additives as they are not a Heavy duty oil. Then there is the carbon build up, piston coking, viscosity thickening, anti blow-by aeration, and about 40 other tests that the oil must meet to be rated for hd diesel service that American oils meet. So if you do the research, my question is why in the world would you NOT run a 15w-40 hd diesel oil that is designed to go 10,000 miles between changes and still have enough reserve that if an oil change is missed, it will actually still perform satisfactory for a 20,000 mile interval with out damaging the engine.. although most of the additives will be depleted and the performance will drop to that of a 30w oil... At this point yes, after a double interval, the viscosity will start to get thicker, Sludge will start to form, acid levels will start to be too high.

do you use diesel rated oil in your jeep?

No, I use standard motor oil. It's a 1975 CJ-5

Any 10-30 will work just fine nothing special is needed. It is not a racing engine just a simple 4cycl OHV engine

Why stop at dropping the pan? While you have it off, may as well pull all the bearing caps and inspect those, and while you're there you may as well pull the head pop out all the pistons and inspect the rings, and while you're there you may as well pull the sleeves and inspect the o-rings, and while you've got it all apart you may as well go back with all new parts, and if you're going back with all new parts you may as well split the tractor, pull the crank, and have it machined, and if you're going to do the crank you may as well send the head out and have it overhauled too...

Sludge in the pan is doing no damage to the engine. It's already done any damage it was going to do.

Lyndon

I am not sure if I follow you on this
80W90
what are you telling us.

what happens if there is lots of sludge it will go to the bottom of pan and clog the oil pickup screen and will cause a lack of oil pressure, which will cause brg and
crank damage. cleaning the pan and even the valve cover is a good idea and dont necessarily mean you need to overhaul the engine.
i have seen engines in vehicles that hardly get an oil change and things are a real mess inside. sean some that the oil would hardly drain back to pan from sludge.

he is not wrong as the poster did not specify engine as everyone is presuming

While low rpm tractor engines have limited valve spring pressure . In general an oil rated for after 2007 should not be used in a pre 2007 engine .
Some of the additives were removed and some of the post 2007 engines had to use roller lifters to avoid cam and lifted wear.
.