radiator stop leak

showcrop

Well-known Member
I hate the idea of using the stuff, but have 2-3 times on occasion. I always have some around. I have had a persistent small leak from a motor that I rebuilt a few years ago. After 3-4 fixes that didn't do it, I finally happened to get at just the right angle and saw that the problem was a freeze plug. I have installed a few of these and never had a problem. I always clean the block surface with emery cloth and use Permatex sleeve sealer. To change this one out I would need to remove the manifolds which is a tough job due to zero space to get at the nuts and then to lift it out once free. It is almost easier to remove the whole motor. Well I remembered that I had some Porter Seal on hand from thirty years ago, so I mixed it according to instructions, and put it in. It has been two weeks and a few drives totaling 200 miles and no leaks. I am happy.
 
Stop leak is not going to permanently fix a leaking freeze plug.

The plug is rusting away, soon the area that the stop leak plugged will give way to the rust.

I have used the copper expandable plugs with good success. They don't have to be hammered in. It can be pushed in and the nut tightened to expand it.

But still, sometimes access for that is impossible. It may well be easier to pull the engine. One thing to consider, if one is leaking, the others can't be far behind.
Copper Expandable Freeze Plug
 

If you can get to it and use one of those plugs you can drive a standard plug in, BTDT it takes two hands two wrenches and its not as EZ as it looks to hold it while you expand it...
 
(quoted from post at 04:21:53 10/13/20) Stop leak is not going to permanently fix a leaking freeze plug.

The plug is rusting away, soon the area that the stop leak plugged will give way to the rust.

I have used the copper expandable plugs with good success. They don't have to be hammered in. It can be pushed in and the nut tightened to expand it.

But still, sometimes access for that is impossible. It may well be easier to pull the engine. One thing to consider, if one is leaking, the others can't be far behind.
Copper Expandable Freeze Plug


Steve, I thought that it would be obvious that since I had rebuilt the motor that I had put new freeze plugs in. Do you recommend replacing them every other year?
 
Stop leak will seal up about any small openings - including the little tubes in radiators and heater cores if it works at all. It is a temporary fix at best. In an old open station tractor, it is not a problem. In a daily driver, it will come back to haunt you.

If you have a leak in one of your CORE PLUGS, it is either from the edge where it did not seal against the block or it has a hole in it from corrosion or defect. If it is corroded, there must be a reason and whatever corroded it is working on the other CORE PLUGS. If it is a defect in the individual part, then it would be wise to replace it.

For hard to reach locations, there are a few tricks that might work. One is to loosen the mounts and raise the engine for better access. Another would be to loosen one mount and tip the engine up on the side that you need to access.

I have had the unfortunate "privilege" of having to flush out plugged heater cores and radiators that were plugged up with cheap temporary fixes that usually don't hold up for long.
 
Bingo.

I would be more concerned about the heater core (and radiator) than how long the seal would last.

Dean
 
My first car was a 1947 Pontiac with 239 CI FH 6 engine.

After it developed a pin hole in the center of one of the freeze plugs, I pushed a tapered splinter of oak from one of the barn beams into the hole and it was still leak free when I sold the car over 20 years later.

The engine always had anti freeze in it and the radiator cap had no gasket.

Dean
 
Even K-Seal, it's a newer technology product, not suppose to plug the heater cores ect, Tell me if thats bad also ??
 
Several comments about such products plugging up radiators .... here's some history below on Bars Leaks from a web site, pretty successful product for something that supposedly does more harm than good ...... and it even saved the USS Nautilus so the story goes !!! By the way, I don't work for the company ..... LOL !!!

The History of Bar's Leaks:

1947 - Bar’s Leaks founded in California by Fred Barton (1907-1975), who discovers a unique ingredient called RHIZEX to stop radiator leaks. RHIZEX is later awarded a patent by the U.S. Trademark and Patent Office.
1950 - Bar’s Leaks enters the traditional automotive aftermarket: jobbers, warehouses and repair garages. The products debut in glass bottles.
1951 - Bar’s Leaks moves its headquarters from California to Holly, Michigan.
1952 - Bar’s Leaks products used in regular and heavy duty assembly lines as OEM treatments by major US automakers. This practice continues today on a global scale.
1958 - During the legendary trip of the nuclear submarine USS Nautilus, Bar’s Leaks is used to stop a hidden leak in one of the vessel’s nuclear reactor steam condensers. The treatment was successful, and allowed the submarine to complete its historic mission as the first submarine to travel under the North Pole. See here to learn more about the USS Nautilus.
1963 - Bar’s Leaks switches packaging from its original glass bottle to advanced metal cans to enhance product durability and longevity
1965 - Bar’s Leaks enters the retail auto aftermarket. Its products are found in major US auto parts retailers to this day.
1968 - Bar’s Leaks introduces tablet-based stop leak product. Since then, over 1 billion tablets have been sold.
1972 - Bar’s Leaks introduces the pouch pack to the automotive aftermarket, a packaging concept that’s at least 10 years ahead of its time.
1974 - Fred Barton invents NO’VERHEAT, a kit that converts cars’ open cooling systems to closed. NO’VERHEAT sells in three sizes to accommodate all vehicle types.
1982 - Bar’s Leaks sells one-hundred-millionth bottle of cooling system stop leak.
1983 - Taking advantage of modern plastics technology, Bar’s Leaks migrates all products to a plastic bottle, reducing weight while keeping product durability high.
1995 - Bar’s Leaks sponsors five-time NHRA National Champion Top Alcohol Driver Bill Reichert and the URC Sprint Series.
1996 - Bar’s Leaks introduces three revolutionary products: Engine, Transmission and Power Steering stop leak solutions.
1997 - Bar’s Leaks becomes a major sponsor of 1997’s Monday Night Football radio broadcasts.
1999 - Bar’s Leaks Jack Oil with Stop Leak developed and introduced to the market. It’s the first and still the only product of its kind known in the world.
2001 - Bar’s Leaks introduces Liquid Aluminum Cooling System Radiator & Heater Core Stop Leak, which becomes an instant success with customers everywhere.
2003 - Bar’s Leaks introduces the world’s first clear, dual-cavity bottle.
2004 - Bar’s Leaks revolutionizes the block seal stop leak category with the introduction of its head gasket repair product line, known and respected by mechanics everywhere.
2006 - Bar’s Products, Inc, the parent company of Bar’s Leaks, acquires Rislone, Inc. and adds its technology and products to its catalog.
2008 - Bar’s Leaks introduces Liquid Copper Block Seal (p/n 1109), which uses a suspended formula while being completely antifreeze compatible.
2009 - Due to rising growth and demand for its products, Bar’s Leaks and Rislone operations expand to a second location in Holly, Michigan.
2010 - Bar’s Leaks launches its strongest, pro-grade head gasket sealant: Carbon Fiber Block Seal, p/n HG-1. The product rapidly becomes the industry benchmark for chemical-based, professional-quality head gasket repair products.
2012 - Bar’s Leaks unveils its dual cavity fuel treatment, which includes an innovative patent-pending spout.

The Deeper Story of the USS Nautilus: Bar's Leaks was more than just a stop leak, it was history in the making!

THE TRUE STORY OF HOW BAR’S LEAKS SAVED THE USS NAUTILUS.

In an automotive radiator a tiny leak might not mean disaster: But on a U.S. nuclear submarine during a top-secret mission under the Arctic ice cap, a tiny salt-water leak would have proven deadly for the sailors aboard the USS Nautilus were it not for the amazing stop leak capability of Bar’s Leaks. Here is their true story:

En route to the polar ice cap, the engineering crew discovered that a small salt-water leak had developed on one of the nuclear reactor steam condensers. The leak was spilling sea water onto a critical piece of machinery, causing noxious fumes to fill the Engine and Maneuvering Rooms. A submarine is a labyrinth of tubes and pipes, so pinpointing the leak while at sea would have been impossible. Something had to be done.
In Seattle, the sub’s last port before embarking north, the commander had an idea to save the mission: He sent his men out to buy as much Bar’s Leaks as they could find. Dressed in civilian clothes, the crew covertly spread out over Seattle to purchase the legendary stop-leak solution.
With the Bar’s Leaks safely on board, sailors poured 70 quarts of it into the submarine’s condenser system.
It worked!
With the leak stopped, the USS Nautilus was able to complete its top-secret mission, becoming the first submarine to cross the North Pole underneath the Arctic ice cap.
Comments
 
For a small hole in the frost plug, I enlarged the hole a bit and cut off a pole barn metal screw and put that in. The pole
barn screw has a rubber gasket and it has worked for years. It was on a tractor that I drove for fun, not a daily worker.
 
How much technology is involved with plugging a hole? If the material is designed to plug holes, that is what it will do. How does it know the difference between a hole in a radiator or a hole that coolant passes through? How does it know the difference between where coolant is leaking and where it is supposed to flow freely?

Nothing will ever convince me that there is some magic formula that knows the difference between a heater core passage and a hole in a CORE PLUG.

After having had the privilege of flushing a few heater cores in freezing weather so that the heater will start working again, I learned to dislike stop leak products.

The whole mechanic in a can thing is just taking the easy way out.

Instead of doing a proper repair, folks want something simple and quick and cheap. Laziness? Get something in a can instead of doing the work. Cheapness? Instead of paying for the parts and labor of having it done right, get something in a can. Quick? Instead of taking the time to get it fixed right, get something in a can.

Just pour something in the oil, coolant, power steering, or transmission to avoid a more proper and permanent repair. I've spent half of a lifetime cleaning up the messes that result from cheapo "fixes" that don't work.
 
Old ..... no I didn't. Actually, first time I heard of the mission at all was today in the Bars Leak article. I am going to search it out and read up on it.
 
By the way I was stationed where that sub is or was. I've been under the arctic circle in a sub in Jan. and you could scrap off frost on the outer hull walls on the inside. I was on the USSBN633 at the time
 
It can be used like anything else follow the directions it can
sometimes bail you out on a deal like that
 
I searched out that number and came up with an old YT site thread ..... one of your replies was .....

"I was in from 1974 to 1980. Started out on a sub but it got old and I hated it. 90 days with out sun light can get to you. Got off the sub and then went to an air craft carrier USS JFK CVA67. Been under the arctic circle and been in Scotland England Italy, Spain and Egypt."

My dad lived in Vancouver and once found a US Navy sailors ball cap, I still have it at home here. I'm guessing sometime in the 80's. It says USS Independence CV-62 on the front, navy blue cap with gold lettering. The carrier was on some kind of a stopover visit to Vancouver. My dad was often near the docks on his walks and he found the cap on a sidewalk down there. My dad was on a Canadian RCN Corvette during WWII, hence his interest in that part of town. Inside the cap is the owner's name in felt marker ... PH3 Chase. I searched that out and best I could find was that PH3 was a Photographer's Helper Class 2, does that sound right? I suspect PH3 Chase had one or two too many while on shore leave and his hat fell off. I wish I could find him, I'd mail the cap to him.
 


"Nothing will ever convince me that there is some magic formula that knows the difference between a heater core passage and a hole in a CORE PLUG".

Gosh jimg, of all the different incorrect names used in this forum for those things, your really risking ridicule for calling the core plugs!
Hah
 
My understanding is that bars leak won't plug up the insides because it had to mix with air to react. Thats why it plugs holes. We poured a bottle in our ford 640, radiator was pouring fluid, been over 2 years. Still going strong. Y'all know how much we work that poor tractor!
 
I did some Googling on US ships and their crews ..... found a guy called Greg Chase .... this link below says PO3 for his job on the USS Independence. I also see that PO3 means petty officer 3rd class .... and that PH3 means photographers mate, petty officer 3rd class. No question, that's him.

I wonder if I could ever find him? Looks like he was on the ship in the mid-80's like I thought it would be.
Untitled URL Link
 

I am taking it the leak is between the plug and the block not the plug itself... ? Run it with the stop leak would be what I would do...

I have switched up the sealer I have used thru the years and always go back to Form a gasket are aviation gasket sealer just for this reason...

I always use the deepest plug I can get my hands on to get as much seal again the block as I can and to lessen issues caused by shallow dept plugs that may not center well in the hole...
 
The Nautilus was also the U.S. first nuke powered sub. It was built as a conventional diesel powered sub then it went into the ship yards and was converted to nuke. Last time I saw it, it was tied up at Groton CT navy base
 
My 7700 combine has a couple bottles of bars leak in it . When i get time im going to flush it and plug the hole with jb weld
 
(quoted from post at 09:36:59 10/13/20)
I am taking it the leak is between the plug and the block not the plug itself... ? Run it with the stop leak would be what I would do...

I have switched up the sealer I have used thru the years and always go back to Form a gasket are aviation gasket sealer just for this reason...

I always use the deepest plug I can get my hands on to get as much seal again the block as I can and to lessen issues caused by shallow dept plugs that may not center well in the hole...


Yes Hobo, it was leaking between the block and the plug, but it seems nobody but you read that I had just rebuilt it, or they are claiming that they replace them every two years on every engine that they have. Also being brass tells me that rusting through is not likely.
 

I have had issues with brass plugs I will only use them if I can get deep well plugs.. My issues were more than likely self inflected trying a different sealer are they were shallow well plugs... Chit happens : (

What engine is it...
 

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