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HELP!

kcm.MN

kcm.MN

Well-known Member
Location
NW Minnesota
I need to remove a wheel from my 2000 RAM truck. Has 3/4" lug nuts. Somehow, some of the lug nuts got deformed to where a 3/4" socket won't fit. Neither will a 19mm. Have tried 6-side and 12-side sockets. Everything else I have is too big or too small.

I don't have (well, can't find) a 20mm socket. Will that be too large?

I tried using a 3/4" impact socket and hammered it on about half way, but couldn't get the nut to budge. Heat maybe?

Would sure hate to run across this problem on the side of a highway with heavy traffic.....in winter! So this is a nice day to ponder the possibilities. :)
 
Get a small sharp chisel and split the
decorative "chrome" cover on the real nut
that actually holds the wheel on. Throw
it away & remove the nut. There was a
thread on this awhile back.
 
Sounds like you have the lug nuts with the stupid sheet metal covers. If you do take a small chisel and cut a slit in the metal and peel it off so you can then use a 11/16 socket on it
 
I have dealt with this on my Ford.

As others have said, the corrosion between the actual lug nut and the chrome metal cover causes it to swell larger than the normal size. You can remove the cover or they do sell special half size sockets to accommodate, 18.5mm or 19.5mm etc. I recommend removing the cover and then replacing the lug nut.

Good luck. It is a major cause of frustration. Most shops just have the half size sockets.
 
If I understand, you were able to get the 3/4 hammered on and the impact simply wouldn't budge it? That is the time to get the heat out.
 
Had the same problem with Ford. Only "socket" that really fit well was the factory lug wrench. Perhaps that, with a big cheater pipe?
 
Just had same problem with my dually only the stud was spinning in the hub. Fired up the hot wrench and the
nut came right off. So now when I get done here I’m replacing some studs and one nut. Fun stuff
 
Sounds like you waited a bit too long to rotate the tires and put some anti-seize on them! Take a small grinder and clean up the nut until a 6 point socket goes on and then take it off. If you still can't get it grind the nut away, or what someone else suggested use a cold chisel. What if you would of had a flat halfway home in the winter, you would of frozen to death!
 
(quoted from post at 15:07:23 09/22/20)

I tried using a 3/4" impact socket and hammered it on about half way, but couldn't get the nut to budge. Heat maybe?
)
Click to expand...

And now you can't get the socket off?

I suppose you cranked up the air pressure for the impact?

Might have to borrow a bigger impact.
 
THANK YOU all for your responses. Greatly appreciated.

I can breath now. Finally got the darned thing off.

MJMJ, you understood correct. I had a 3/4" impact socket hammered about half way onto the lug nut, but the impact wrench wouldn't budge it. I got to remembering something that I learned many, many years ago, and that is, never use an extension with an impact wrench unless necessary. The more joints in the setup, the more it dampens the impacts.

So, I tried it one last time, perfectly willing to sacrifice one of my 20++ 3/4" and 19mm sockets. ....Also got a bigger hammer! *lol* Hammered the same socket on one more time, but a bit farther. Then removed the extension. Impact wrench took it right off. Problem solved.....for now.

I have new lug nuts on order. And no more of this sheet metal crap!
 
(quoted from post at 13:08:39 09/22/20)
(quoted from post at 15:07:23 09/22/20)

I tried using a 3/4" impact socket and hammered it on about half way, but couldn't get the nut to budge. Heat maybe?
)
Click to expand...

And now you can't get the socket off?

I suppose you cranked up the air pressure for the impact?

Might have to borrow a bigger impact.
Click to expand...

Nope, didn't use the big air impact this time.

Wife got me an electric impact for Christmas and this was the first time I've used it. She didn't know which ones were good, so she let me pick it out. *lol* Anyway, it's the one sold by Harbor Freight. Works pretty nice. More power than I expected, and a LOT easier than lugging out the air compressor, hose, etc... If the electric didn't work, I had my big cheater bar to try next.
 
(quoted from post at 12:52:09 09/22/20) Sounds like you waited a bit too long to rotate the tires and put some anti-seize on them! Take a small grinder and clean up the nut until a 6 point socket goes on and then take it off. If you still can't get it grind the nut away, or what someone else suggested use a cold chisel. What if you would of had a flat halfway home in the winter, you would of frozen to death!
Click to expand...

Yup, that's something we think of often. This truck has been sitting with a leak in brake line. Am about to start that project.

Thanks for the tips!
 
(quoted from post at 11:30:17 09/22/20)
As others have said, the corrosion between the actual lug nut and the chrome metal cover causes it to swell larger than the normal size.
Click to expand...

More of that wonderful Modern Engineering, eh? *lol*

Have ordered new lug nuts....with no sheet metal! :)
 
Maybe check your other three wheels, can you get them loose?? Loosen and tighten with your lug wrench,
so you can get loose on the road...
 
I think what you are describing is a thread I started about a week ago. Mine had a sheetmetal cap over the top of the lug nuts that got deformed. I drove a small screwdriver through the sheetmetal between the cap and the lug nut and pealed the cap off. After that the
lug nut worked fine.
 
(quoted from post at 15:27:18 09/22/20) I think what you are describing is a thread I started about a week ago. Mine had a sheetmetal cap over the top of the lug nuts that got deformed. I drove a small screwdriver through the sheetmetal between the cap and the lug nut and pealed the cap off. After that the
lug nut worked fine.
Click to expand...

Yes, I believe that's one thread I should have read. But nnnooooo, not me!! I'm gonna be doing a brake line. Won't need to remove wheels. Well, that's correct, but while I'm looking things over, I wanted to look inside the brake assy and all.

Found out that I have to order another brake line. I bought a 'set' off of Amazon of all the steel lines, but one junction is totally crap. The brake line that runs behind fuel tank, where it connects to the rear line running to the axle junction. The rear line is good except for that connection point. Dang!

Thanks Stephen. I'll go back and read through that thread. Maybe some of it will actually sink through this thick head. *lol*
 
(quoted from post at 15:29:42 09/22/20) Maybe check your other three wheels, can you get them loose?? Loosen and tighten with your lug wrench,
so you can get loose on the road...
Click to expand...

Most of my trailers have 8 bolt wheels on them, ideally I should run the nuts off and on once a year but I don't.

If I am going anywhere far in the winter I do spend 5 minutes at the shop to spin them off and back on with an impact just in case.

Couple of years ago I shredded a trailer tire in minus 40 weather, sure was glad I had cycled the nuts before I left.
 
I had the exact same problem. The first set I bought from Grainger
part number 12 P185 worked great. Then I found the Irwins set part
number 54125 so I bought it to just in case I ever need it. Put the
socket on tap it a little and then twist the lug nut off socket bites as
you turn it
cvphoto56865.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 16:32:53 09/22/20)
If I am going anywhere far in the winter I do spend 5 minutes at the shop to spin them off and back on with an impact just in case.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea! And will be easy to do with my new impact toy....er, tool.

By the way, this is the impact wrench I got:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KCZ9X4R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's the same model that Harbor Freight sells for more money, just has a different name.
 
I am glad you got it off. I was going to say,that back in the day , most all of Chrysler, dodge, had left handed threads on one side of vehicle, don't know how they are nowadays.
 
19mm & 3/4 are too small, how is an 18mm going to work? Anyway I have a worn out 3/4 I keep specifically for these boogered up chrome clad nuts. I know you already looked for one but usually a 20mm socket works great too. I also have twist-sockets like already mentioned, as a last case scenario, these sockets are a great addition to any tool box.
 
If you haven't tried using a socket that is meant to grab onto rounded heads I'd try that. The second option that I go to is using a chisel to scrape the sides down a little to make it smaller and the edges sharp to see if a smaller socket will grab it. Lastly I get the heat out. Good luck!
 
As others have said get that chrome cap off and drive a socket on it. I had one one my 95 Chevrolet Suburban. It had aluminum wheels and it destroyed a tire. Tried everything finally I took a torch and blew the stud out of the nut. It is a higher carbon steel and blew out clear to the axle flange, didn’t even hurt the wheel. Heat the stud red hot straight on then touch the oxygen.
 
For the brake lines just use that copper nickel line it is made for brake lines and will bend without a tool so you can form it as you go under the vehicle. And yes that is what it is for. NO it is not just a copper line. Easily formed with a flaring tool for making new ends to fit the nuts on the line. I just did an older Dakota a couple of months ago with it and a couple lines on Dad's pickup too.
 
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