Troubleshooting steps for no start

Hello I would appreciate some feedback on proper ways to test a no start on a Ford 3600. I was using the tractor, turned it off came back a few mins later and nothing. Some times the safety switch would act up and I'd have to reseat the wires and it would fire up.

I'm about to split the tractor for a clutch swap and will replace it then.

Please give me your thoughts on this.

Battery has ~13v

I cut the Neutral safety connectors off to eliminate- ( I believe to bypass you should cross those together, so I wire nutted them)

With the Key turned on and safety switch wires nutted together I show ~12.5 volts at the starter solenoid. If I turn the key voltage drops to 0 and starter does not engage.

What I find strange is this. If I open the 2 safety switch wires, when I turn the key voltage stays at 12.5v at the solenoid but still the starter does not engage.

Should I have the safety wire connected together or should they be open to work (this is just temporary for testing)? The 2 wires that go to safety switch go up in the column and I'm not sure where they go I'm wondering if there is not an issue further up their "path". And that is not letting voltage got to the starter or if its actually the solenoid

I believe next step is I should try and bypass the solenoid by crossing out the 2 wires that go from solenoid to the starter and applying 12v directly to it from an outside source. The start should engage then correct?

Check the simple things first. load test your battery. Check and clean battery post connectors and cable ends, especially the ground cable connection to the frame. Replace cables if any doubt as to their condition

It takes three things to make an engine run Fuel , somewhat timed spark , compression .If you have all three it will run .

It won't run if the starter won't turn over, which is Luke's problem.

bad battery connection or one of the big wires have gone bad inside the insulation. Redo,,, clean, both ends of the positive and negative battery cables. As said, I have seen battery cables corrode up inside the insulation on occasion. the battery bolt on the solenoid is usually made out of copper and can strip very easily so be careful there and or double nut it.

Jump across the 2 big posts on the solenoid should spin the starter and depending on the type of solenoid it may spin the starter. Just be 1000% sure it is out of gear when you do that. That is an easy way to test if your battery connection and starter is good but leaves out any safety switch

My experience is bad battery connections (causing high resistance in the circuit) that does not let your battery charge properly and causes excessive voltage drop during starting operation. If the voltage goes to zero
with a good battery and good connections,something is going to smoke! I would fully charge the battery and clean all the battery cable connections at both ends of both cables. To each there own but I probably
would not have went to the neutral switch first.

Move your volt meter test leads directly to the battery posts, not the cable ends, but the posts, Take the voltage reading while trying the starter.

If the voltage drops to near 0, the battery id bad.

If the voltage stays high, then systematically start moving one test lead at a time, repeating the load test until you find the voltage drop. It helps to have an assistant operate the start switch while you hold the test leads. Each test must be done under load to be valid.

BUT!!! Since you bypassed the neutral switch, be absolutely sure it is in neutral!

Be aware it could start cranking or start any time during the test. While you are testing, things can also get hot. A hot or discolored connection is a clue you have found the problem.

(quoted from post at 16:03:55 08/31/20) Move your volt meter test leads directly to the battery posts, not the cable ends, but the posts, Take the voltage reading while trying the starter.

If the voltage drops to near 0, the battery id bad.

If the voltage stays high, then systematically start moving one test lead at a time, repeating the load test until you find the voltage drop. It helps to have an assistant operate the start switch while you hold the test leads. Each test must be done under load to be valid.

BUT!!! Since you bypassed the neutral switch, be absolutely sure it is in neutral!

Be aware it could start cranking or start any time during the test. While you are testing, things can also get hot. A hot or discolored connection is a clue you have found the problem.

Click to expand...

Thank you all. I am always double and triple checking it's in neutral before turning the key.

Can you confirm I should have the safety wires closed together, what I found strange was, if I ohb between my safety switch wires that are in the transmission cover, they ohm down fine. if I connect ohm meter to the actual wires going up the harness it shows open circuit.

Going to go test the battery now at post while turning the key, terminals look clean but cables are wrapped so will need some inspection.

Had a no start condition with our Massey 265 a few weeks
ago. I though we were having neutral switch issues...seemed
to make the most sense...still couldn’t figure it out...

Found out there was a small fuse under a cover on the
dash...it was broken. Problem solved.

(quoted from post at 18:05:42 08/31/20) Had a no start condition with our Massey 265 a few weeks
ago. I though we were having neutral switch issues...seemed
to make the most sense...still couldn t figure it out...

Found out there was a small fuse under a cover on the
dash...it was broken. Problem solved.

Click to expand...

you maybe onto something it maybe a fuse and I'm wondering so please see the picture! I

I'm on the hunt but need some help with this folks can you help me understand what I couldn't ohm out to trace wire.



My Key switch - 4 post -

1 larger Red wire goes to Alternator
1 smaller wire goes to Alternator (blue cap)
1 Wire goes to the Neutral safety (2nd safety wire goes to solenoid)
1 wire unknown - ?


Alternator - 4 wires

2 go to my switch as listed above where do the other 2 go I could not ohm them out to trace anywhere?

I'm guessing one of those wires will go to power the lights?

Please see picture at the solenoid I have this red wire that has a cap over it looks like its made onto wire but it says fusible link, it almost looks like its broken off something as I can barely see metal at the end its in the wire loom with the safety wire that has blade connector on top of solenoid.

Also I put 12v directly to the solenoid and it engaged which points back to something going on with the wiring.

If that was a fuse link, then it has burned/broken off.

The purpose of a fuse link is to protect the rest of the wiring harness in case of a short. But it may have failed from vibration.

Typically a fuse link will connect to the same post of the solenoid as the + battery cable.

It will then power the amp gauge (if equipped) or go to the BAT post of the ignition switch and/or the big output post of the alternator.

Check for power at the big post of the alternator, and the BAT post of the ignition switch. Both should have power any time the battery cables are both connected.

You can get a new fuse link at the auto supply in the electrical section. Not sure what all it is protecting, but if the alternator is charging through it you will need about a 50 amp link. Be nice to know what amp alternator it has, then match the link to that.

See if you can find a brand on the alternator. Some have the output amps stamped on the side of the case.

And the neutral switch does need to be tied together to bypass it.