Leaking axle seals

hey guys-
I have another newbie question. For my IH 330, the rear axles leak, even when sitting. Not enough where it ever runs dry, but i imagine it would eventually. More importantly, gear oil smells awful and its seeping into the soil-- and my wife would like it to stop leaking.



Looks like the wheels have to come off to make the repair? I do need to replace my tires sometime in the near future due to dry rot. Also-- they are loaded.. Seems like a reasonably big job then?

I run cornhead grease in some tools i have. I imagine that's a terrible thing to put into a transmission?

How would you guys go about this?

There are two parts to replacing seals, you have to make sure the axle is not loose in the bearings and also replace the seals.

To add to what David said. Make sure where the seal rides. Is smooth with no cuts in it.

The level of Hytran in the axle may be too high. If not, seals and speedy sleeves might be the next step. if it has a TA, you can't use heavier
oil/grease. Jim

Got that drip drip drip too.
Brake pads on that side have become saturated with oil.
Seals and pads both sides.
Waiting for 40" breaker bar and axle nut socket from fed ex. Late...

On my planter tractor this spring mine went from not leaking at all to leaking bad in about 2 rounds. Turns out the axle bearing went out taking the seal out with it. I needed that tractor asap so had the
dealer come out and pick it up. Inner bearing was bad too so it became a very big project. Two days later and $3300 I was back planting corn.

(quoted from post at 15:47:29 07/29/20) The level of Hytran in the axle may be too high. If not, seals and speedy sleeves might be the next step. if it has a TA, you can't use heavier
oil/grease. Jim

Click to expand...

Am i understanding you right that if I have too high a fluid level, it might leak

What's TA? Transaxle?I don't think these old IHs have those.

(quoted from post at 16:26:48 07/29/20) Got that drip drip drip too.
Brake pads on that side have become saturated with oil.
Seals and pads both sides.
Waiting for 40" breaker bar and axle nut socket from fed ex. Late...

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto51805.jpg">

Click to expand...

I would looooove to see some photos of this process on your tractor!

So the really basic question-- How does one manage a fully loaded wheel? I'm picturing-- loosen bolts, jack up rear of tractor, try like hell to get the rusted wheel off the rusted tractor-- and then what-- use an engine hoist and a friend to move the wheel away?

FYI- my tractor is a weekend warrior here in NH. It plows snow and moves logs around. Our 5 acre property.

A leaking seal is an indication that a bearing is loose. I'm not familiar with your tractor, so I have no idea how difficult (or expensive) it will be to replace the wheel bearings. My tractor (Ford 4000 row crop) has roller bearings that can be tightened by removing shims, but that's not typical.

Loaded tires can be handled fairly safely with a "cherry picker" engine hoist. Whether or not you want to take your tires and wheels in for replacement at this time is your call; but unless you have a tire shop close enough to drive the tractor to you'll probably be pulling them off again if you don't replace your tires now. Another option: most ag tire shops have trucks that will come and service your tires on-site, if you're willing to pay for that service.

Due to the age of your tractor and because it has ballasted tires, there's a good chance the wheel rims are shot. Inspect the area around the tube stem for rust; if it's more than just surface rust the rims will probably have to be replaced. When I replaced the tires on my tractor, I just bought new tires on new rims and had the tire shop ballast them; I brought the mounted tires home on my trailer. After replacing the old tires and rims, it was another project disposing of them.

> What's TA? Transaxle?I don't think these old IHs have those.

Torque Amplifier, which would have been an option on your 330. Basically a hi-lo shift; if you don't know about it your tractor probably doesn't have it.

> So the really basic question-- How does one manage a fully loaded wheel? I'm picturing-- loosen bolts, jack up rear of tractor, try like hell to get the rusted wheel off the rusted tractor-- and then what-- use an engine hoist and a friend to move the wheel away?

If you have a friend willing to help, two people can safely handle a loaded tire without using a hoist. The trick is to keep it nearly upright; if it leans too far over somebody will get hurt. You can lean the tire against a wall; don't try to lay it down!

One person can easily handle a loaded tire with a cherry picker. That's what I've always done.

(quoted from post at 03:37:16 07/30/20) > So the really basic question-- How does one manage a fully loaded wheel? I'm picturing-- loosen bolts, jack up rear of tractor, try like hell to get the rusted wheel off the rusted tractor-- and then what-- use an engine hoist and a friend to move the wheel away?

If you have a friend willing to help, two people can safely handle a loaded tire without using a hoist. The trick is to keep it nearly upright; if it leans too far over somebody will get hurt. You can lean the tire against a wall; don't try to lay it down!

One person can easily handle a loaded tire with a cherry picker. That's what I've always done.

Click to expand...

Thanks all-- this is helpful

Couple dumb questions still rattling around-- would filling the reservoir too high cause the axles to leak?

Is running cornhead crease in a transmission a horrible idea? (guessing yes but...have to ask)

^obviously meant cornhead grease. Not crease. Apparently post editing is disabled?

> would filling the reservoir too high cause the axles to leak?

Yes, but only until enough oil has leaked out to lower the level below the seals.

> Is running cornhead crease in a transmission a horrible idea?

I would not do it. For one thing, in some tractors the transmission or differential lube can get into the hydraulics; you sure don't want cornhead grease in your hydraulics. And if you think gear oil is bad for your brake shoes, imagine what grease will do.

(quoted from post at 11:04:47 07/30/20)

(quoted from post at 16:26:48 07/29/20) Got that drip drip drip too.
Brake pads on that side have become saturated with oil.
Seals and pads both sides.
Waiting for 40" breaker bar and axle nut socket from fed ex. Late...

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto51805.jpg">

Click to expand...

I would looooove to see some photos of this process on your tractor!

So the really basic question-- How does one manage a fully loaded wheel? I'm picturing-- loosen bolts, jack up rear of tractor, try like hell to get the rusted wheel off the rusted tractor-- and then what-- use an engine hoist and a friend to move the wheel away?

FYI- my tractor is a weekend warrior here in NH. It plows snow and moves logs around. Our 5 acre property.

Click to expand...

That's how I remove the rear wheels with weights on my M. I have only done this on pavement because as soon as the engine hoist takes on the wheel weight it would sink in the dirt. I have done the job solo, but it's always easier with a friend.