antifreeze

How do you know if antifreeze needs to be changed? Replacing a couple of hoses and I just drained excellent looking antifreeze out of my tractor. Bright green and very clean with absolutely no oil. I really can't remember when I changed it last. Does antifreeze lose its potency? What would you do? Thanks, Ellis

You can probably get a good answer by googling your question but I think antifreeze over time becomes acidic from the temps its designed to control. Could be wrong.Most things degrade over time when heat is applied.

You can buy test strip kit. Buy a tester to check freezing level and add anti corrosion stuff if needed.

like was already suggested, test strips are best way to be sure.did you drain the block or just the radiator?if just the radiator there most likely is settled rust (especially if it's an older machine) left in the block,and because of the pressure in the cooling system the engine obviously has to be cooled down so you can work on it,which can allow some rust to settle from sitting cold.but of course since your coolant was still nice and green looking,chances are your cooling system is pretty clean with the exception of a little rust settled in (no big deal).

If I were you,i would test the coolant and if it's good and the engine doesn't over heat,i would let it be.How long have you had the tractor?it sounds like it has been flushed recently in order to be that clean after running a bit.just my 2 cents.

Rock

Antifreeze as far as protecting from cold practically never wears out. It does contain chemicals that prevent corrosion that does wear out. The engine block can start putting rust in the coolant which can plug the radiator. Antifreexe should be changed out every couple of years.

I have a 1983 6060 Allis Chalmers. It ran up untill 5 yrs ago needed a new water pump. Antifreeze never changed. But did put Valvoline water pump lubricant and additive in it every 10 yrs or so. Never put over a pint of antifreeze in it since new pump. Its 37 yrs old. Sealed system and a spit tank workes wonders for cooling systems. Oh radiator never been off. Or flushed. Just baled hay with it runs cool. 95 deg day.

I drained the block also. Just as clean, no corrosion. Guess I'll test it before I do anything. I've had the tractor since 1985 and have pretty much done everything there is to do to one in that period of time, maintenance wise. It earns it's keep in the summers. Ellis

Unless you have changed it recently, just get new. It isn’t overly expensive and junk that came out with it will be gone.

Antifreeze turns acidic over time. It will generate voltage and eat metal away like a battery. Also depending on the tractor, it may need cavitation protection, which needs to be maintained too

Unless this is something big that holds several gallons, easiest to just replace it. If it only holds a gallon or so you will spend more testing it than just replacing.

Prevention is critical. If the anti corrosion additives are gone, it will start eating away the inside of the block. The acidic sediment will settle to the bottom of the water jacket as a hard black sludge that can not be flushed out. That sludge will attack steel freeze plugs!

Best to flush it, drain it, refill it with premix or 50/50 with distilled water.

EllisK,

I know for a fact that antifreeze does eventually go "bad". I have taken laboratory samples for decades and have come to the conclusion that after 7 to 9 years, it needs to be changed out.

This is based on green antifreeze, as well as the purple stuff. I also did chemical additives per laboratory recommendation.

Swap it out.

D.

Ellis,
I use the test strips, and have also periodically had labs (such as Fluid Life or Polaris) run a test to back up my test strip efforts. So far, I have not found a problem with Ethylene Glycol type antifreeze that couldn't be addressed, usually as simple as adjusting DCA levels. My formal training started with Detroits at GM in the 70's, and I have zero formal knowledge of the newer generations of coolant.

My method changed somewhat when I bought a farm in 1985 and became a larger scale user of coolants. Rather than test and change vehicle by vehicle, or tractor by tractor, I will drain the coolant when I service or exchange an engine, etc., and allow the sediments or turbidity to settle in a container (Usually a 5 gallon bucket with a lid). I then use a test strip to run a rough PH/ DCA test. If at that point the drained coolant passes the strip tests, I decant it into a barrel I dedicate for that purpose, discarding the bottom half inch or so if it contains sediments. The barrel usually has around 25 to 40 gallons in it. When needed, I use the coolant drawn from the barrel, and I have never had a problem. I could always pay a lab to run a more complete test on the coolant in the barrel, but haven't done so in years, since the tests always came back within limits. If I don't know the pedigree of the coolant, I discard it, because so many people will use tap water, and the cost to accurately determine dissolved mineral content exceeds the value of the antifreeze. I personally use only rainwater or distilled water for dilution, no exceptions.

There is however an additional issue that all should be aware of. For years, the super cheap antifreezes were loaded up with silicates to serve as stop leaks. A certain level is okay, but too much can clog up a heater core, etc. I have opened old gallon jugs of cheap antifreeze, and seen "icicles" of silicates that had come out of suspension. My chemistry knowledge is limited, so I asked the test lab about it the last time I had the barrel tested. The answer was- "If the excess silicates have already fallen out of solution, just add the coolant to the barrel, and any additional silicates will be diluted by the large volume. Discard the silicates in the jug.".

Just one program, everybody has a different situation.

I would just change it and be done with it I think your making it more complicated than it should be no offense

I would change it. Having the bottom sleeve bore in the block bored and sleeved because of block cavitation is not cheap. I have patched those pits the cheap way with JB but it still should not have to be done if the antifreeze is changed regularly.