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OT: ABS question re replacing brakes

R

rossow (mn)

Member
It looks like I'll need to replace the rear calipers in my '02 Silverado. It's two-wheel drive, V8, 109,000 miles. Calipers on both sides are hanging up enough that the wheels are really hard to turn in neutral, even with tires on, and the pads are pretty worn. I need to do more checking for blocked hoses, etc., before I take it apart (too hot yesterday with heat index 103 degrees). I've done a lot of disk-brake pad, rotor, caliper replacement on older cars but not ones with ABS. My question: Do I need to do anything special or different on one with ABS? I don't want to screw up the computer or something --I admit I'm ignorant regarding ABS electronics. I appreciate advice before I dig in. Thanks.
 
nothing special about your braking system, what you need to be concerned with is the parking brake it uses. Is it small shoes with drums inside the rotors or a ratchet system inside the caliper. I have seen plenty of p brakes hanging up causing the problems.
 
As long as you don't let the system gravity bleed empty while the lines are open, it is no different than old systems. If you introduce air above the ABS unit from running it dry, that is when they can be tricky to bleed. Just don't let the master go empty and you'll be fine.
 
(quoted from post at 10:10:29 07/19/20) Be sure it's not the park brake binding it up.

They were not the best design on those.
Click to expand...
ow, that IS an understatement! You are being real nice to GM ......it is Sunday. :)
 
I think it's a little drum on the rotors from what I could see before saying to heck with it in the extreme heat. I have to do more checking regarding the parking brake, etc. I just don't want to go into the job nervous about "unknowns."

This truck has always been parked under cover, never been winter-driven, so rust isn't a serious issue as 18-year-old Minnesota pickups are concerned. But it has only been driven a few hundred miles a year in recent years and is stored in an insulated machine shed from late fall through early spring. Knowing from sad experience how lack of use can be almost as bad as lots of miles on vehicles, I need to get under it to check things carefully.
 
The ABS just has a sensor on each wheel which measures the speed the wheel is turning. If the sensor determines one of the wheels is stopped completely it will momentarily release the break pressure on that wheel. For what you are doing I would just ignore the ABS. There would be an idiot light come on your dash if there was an issue there.
 
ABS is nothing special, as stated just don't let it get dry.

I like to replace the brake fluid when I do brakes on older cars. It pretty easy to do, suck the old out of master cylinder, fill with new and keep bleeding until it is clear, but remember to keep filling master cylinder.
 

Those calipers are notorious for sticking, go get them and the hoses while there...

Parking brakes I did not know they had any : )... The good they are a snap to replace you start one edge over the axle and roll them off/on... Confirm the parking brake cable is not sticking... :wink:

They are not a gravity bleeder it takes around 50 PSI to open up the rear hydraulic circuit so you will have to short stoke the brake peddle are use a pressure blended that has special adapters. You will never get it done with a standard cap/seal adapter...

For those Chebby lubbers that have a spongy brake peddle this is the most common way to resolve the issue...




mvphoto58700.jpg
 
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