O/T Hay Wagon

Looking for advice on how to deck to the wagon. Seems like there are two ways to do it, either with long boards running the length from front to back laid on 4x4's over beams, or going across the deck with planks laid right atop the beams. That way seems a little easier, but do you get any drooping of the boards off the sides that way? Seems like most I've seen use a 2x4 for the edge, one on top and one on bottom of deck edge sides.

I was going to use two 2x8's for beams, but I'm starting to think maybe I should go 2x10 for more clearance over the tires? Or is that too tall? The uprights off the frame are 6 3/4" tall. It's John Deere running gear, painted red. Going to see light usage, 1500 bales/year and not stacked too high, probably just 4 or 5 high with another in the middle.
 
2X8's or 2X10's should be doubled (sistered to each other) if they are going to be used as stringers. They need to be cross braced so they don't "tilt" toward or away from each other under load too.
 
I have wagons of both types you mentioned, I prefer the long boards running front to back. It does takes more work to build . Last one I built I used 4x4s for cross bars on top of the stringers. I used angle iron to attach them and carriage bolts. Yes the 2x6s run crossways will droop over time, and just doesn't seem as strong.
 
I run 5/4 treated deck planks for cross ways construction.

I put metal flashing on the stringers before putting the decking on. Wagon is on it’s 3rd or 4th decking, same stringers in the past 70+ years.

One has an angle iron under it to help keep it from drooping, I
On in front and one in back, pretty stout angle iron.

Other one has an angle iron in the middle, under the stringers, and angled up to the sides under the decking to keep from drooping.

Paul
 
I run the boards across and don't have trouble with drooping. I run a 4x4 front and rear with a 2x6 on edge bolted to the 4x4s with the boards nailed to the 4x6 stringers and the side 2x6s. Then I lay a 2x4 flat along the sides over the deck to help tip the bales in. I use full 1" oak boards if I can get them.
 
I'm going to use 3 2x10x16' for each beam, or stringer I guess they're called, with 10 5/8" bolts spaced 4' holding them together. That puts the deck bottom about 4 inches above the tires.

Sound good?

Thanks
 
I like the looks of this, am kind of using it as my model.
cvphoto49718.jpg
 
Thanks Paul,

Metal flashing probably better than any coating, isn't it? I see many use roofing tar stuff. How far down the sides of stringers should flashing cover? If they're 4 1/2" should I get 8 inch flashing and bend over corners? Or just cover the tops of stringers?
 
Just cover the tops and an inch or two over each side, dad never even folded it over tight, left it angled so the stringer can dry if it gets wet, the water drips off the tin over a ways.

We coat the stringer top with used motor oil before putting the tin on.

Paul
 
Very good. I was thinking I'd coat everything in oil, planks too,good idea? Paint or anything else better? Is that 1" oak quite a bit better than 2x8 green?
 
Across the top of the stringers. I use threaded rod and drill down through both the stinger and 4x4. Same with the 4x4/2x6 connection. For the back I run 4-2x4 uprights bolted through the 4x4 with an ange brave on the sides down to the 2x6
 
Ah, another debate for the ages. Which truck, what oil, and which way do you run your hay wagon floorboards?

Even though it raises the floor 3-1/2" and is added cost, I prefer having 4x4 cross beams and running the floor boards lengthwise. I have never seen one sagging that is built like this.

I have, on the other hand, seen many wagons with the floor boards running lengthwise sagging along the sides. EZ Trail builds their wagons like this, and I've never seen one with any age on it that wasn't sagging along the sides.
 

Around here almost all are built with the boards running front to back, but if I were going to do one side to side I would do it like the one in your pic, and though they may stay straight I would want a front to back member on the edge for insurance. Many times the way the sides attach dictates how you have to build your deck. Like Paul I put flashing over the cross members.
 
Motor oil can be slippery for quite some time, and might affect hay if you use it for hay. Those things are your call.

Oak is too expensive for me to have used it around here, but I suspect it would be good.

Paul
 
That is way overbuilding, One 2x8 is plenty, that is all the factory built beds 14' long used that were sold by either sears or Wards All I had as well. And floor crosswise will droop, only good reaso for that way is wigh bolster to get lower bed to ground height And I would not begin to know where to find oak here And cotton wood is better for a wagon floor or for grain sideboards as it is just as strong and lighter weight so you could get anouther 6 bales on for same weight as oak bed on the gear.
 
Our wagons are most always at least 20 foot long. We use more like a 4x8-10 on edge with 2x4 cross members then boards or plywood over the cross members. IF kept inside they last for decades. The main timbers are Oak,Ash,Elm,Just depends on what we are cutting in the woods and the time frame. In the Late 60's early 70's it was Elm. Later Oak White or Red. Now later in the 80's to current More likely Ash. One wagon is 26 feet next is about 20 the last is about 24 the last is an old truck frame. The 22has Oak 4x12 under it with the plywood top. For square bales around here all the back rests are angled back a few inches so the load doesn't tip forward down hill. Or we set the bottom bales ahead a couple of inches so they will lean back just a bit.
 
The deck boards just storing implement parts on bent down on ends laid crosswise. And this was with a 2x4 lengthwise on sides.
 
I would NEVER put oil on a wagon or trailer floor, TOO MUCH chance on falling on it. I have had oil spill on trailer while working on implement on trailer and it never goes away.
 

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