Stuck clutch

Guy brought this tractor to me with stuck clutch and wouldn't run, bad carb. Fixed carb, runs good but cannot get clutch to let go. Rusted disc to flywheel maybe. He said it happened once before. I got it fully warmed up and drove around applying brakes, jerking , etc. Hooked to a pickup and worked it as hard as I could having the pickup driver holding back with the brakes. Nothing...doesn't seem to be any access holes to look into the clutch. I am NOT a Ford guy, any ideas?
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Get it going in an open area in high gear. Hang on and hit only one brake and then alternate sides. It can work wonders !
 
Sounds like you may have to split it. Had the same situation on a Ferguson 30 I repaired for a guy last fall. I did everything I could think of to get it to release and nothing worked. I even plowed for almost an hour with the clutch held down.
 
About the only access I can think of is through the starter hole.

Block the pedal down, try reaching between the open sides of the pressure plate and push a knife blade or scraper between the flywheel and clutch disc, same on pp side.

I would tie a string on whatever you can get in there to pry with.
 
I have heard of all sorts of tricks to free a stuck Ford clutch which if they'd put a an Allis Chalmers clutch pedal lock lever on the tractor in the first place this would never happen! Try this. On the right side of the clutch/flywheel housing you should find a timing port covered with a metal or plastic cover secured with a screw that can be loosened and rotated to open the port/hole. This will give enough access to the clutch to squirt Brake Kleen onto the clutch. Works best with engine running, in neutral, with the clutch pedal held all the way down by your able assistant or a big C clamp or concrete block or stick of wood, whatever will keep the clutch pedal all the way down while you're doing this. It will drain out the drain hole in the bottom so best to have a drain pan placed under the drain hole. That's the hole that should have a cotter key dangling from it. Don't be afraid to use a whole can or two of Brake Kleen. Let us know how it works out as there are several more tricks, each increasingly more dangerous. Such as running into a tree. Just kidding. (;>)) When you do get it freed up, use some device to completely disengage clutch after shut down, Especially if it's not going to be run for some time.
 
I am not seeing the timing hole on this one. I do see the drain you mentioned. Pulling the starter doesn't look like it will give me direct access to the clutch. I am not interested in splitting it at this time, just too busy. I am gonna give it one more shot making it pull hard and then send it back to guy.
 
H'mm. You have an alternator installed but on the right side meaning you have a front mount distributor which means you probably have no timing port as I described. That would have come later with the side mount distributor and moving the generator to the left side. ???
 
Do your brakes work good ? The trick is to only press down hard on only one pedal at a time. This sends a shock wave through the drive train. Make sure you also have the clutch pedal tied down. Hang onto the steering wheel as tractor will really jerk to one side. If you do both pedals at same time that does nothing. I've done several this way. Of course there is always a chance the clutch came apart and it is not stuck from moisture.
 
OK. It appears you have an earlier, front mount distributor with no timing port. You could make a port by simply drilling a hole in the side of the clutch housing at about the 2 O'Clock position about 2 inches behind the seam or you , I think. could remove the starter as previously suggested and use a flexible tube on a can of brake keen. It would be good if you could turn the engine flywheel over while doing this which I believe you could do by removing all 4 spark plugs and have someone turn the fan blades. Or, maybe, you could direct the Brake Kleen spray upward through the drain hole.
 
One more thing. Whenever you leave the tractor sit, like right now, make sure the clutch pedal is held all the way down. 24 hours a day. My uncle used a big rock that was just the right size'
 
x2. I have a 1/4 hole drilled in mine exactly for this purpose. Block the clutch down with a piece of wood between the pedal and the radius rod mount. Block the wheels and idle in neutral. Spray one can of Brake-Kleen into the hole using the straw, and wiggle it around so you get a wider spray pattern. The idea is to soak everything in there. Shut off and let sit overnight. Next day take the block out and try it. If still stuck, put the clutch pedal block back in and give it another can this time without it running. Next day try it again. This process has worked on every stuck 8N clutch I have used it on. If you get it freed up, run it and never let it set overnight without the pedal block in place. Seems once they start sticking it will do it every time you forget the block.

If this process don't work, you can try pulling the steering box off the top of the clutch housing (take hood off, disconnect steering, wiring, etc.) you can get into the clutch from the top. Otherwise you'll have to split it and fix it right.
 
I would remove the starter, block the pedal down, then put a hand crank in the slot, and hang about 200 pounds on it with the tractor in high gear and blocked from movement. Then I would use a brass drift punch, and rap the flywheel solidly, Not a sledge hammer, but a 2 pounder would be my choice. If no joy, I would turn it 189 and do it again. Jim
 
Hook a brush hog to it and keep the the clutch in and go to cutting the brush and grass. It worked for me.
 
pull starter ,hold clutch pedal down , spray brake clean down the face of clutch disc , then take a brass punch and bang the back of the flywheel the vibration will break the bond , it worked for me serval times , same principal as a frozen brake shoe on a semi ring the drum like a bell
 
Drill a hole like has been mentioned. Tap it out and put a 1/4 in pipe plug in it and it will look like the factory did it.

It will free itself in time with temperature changes if left blocked down.
 
My friend had one stuck on a NAA. It freed up from driving up a hill on the road in high gear and lugging it down like you wouldn't normally do. The hard slow firing of the cylinders were like an impact wrench working on it and it freed up.
 
As others have said, it's sadly time to split it. The N-Series Fords were semi-notorious for getting stuck clutches. I have four 8Ns and never let them sit, not even overnight, without blocking the clutch (yes, I'm paranoid). I've used anything handy -- short chunk of 2x4, stout stick from the woods, even a soft-drink can. Blocking beats splitting every time.
 
Steve@advance has the right idea. Only improvement is to get one of mama's kitchen knives- her least favored one, for reasons that will become obvious. Heat it cherry red about 2 inches from the point, and put a 90 degree bend in the blade at that point. After removing the starter, you can insert the point through the gap in the pressure plate, and by rocking the knife handle up and down, you'll rock the business end of the tool forward and back, to pry the disc away from the pressure plate. Probably have to do it twice or thrice, but it always works.

And now you've reminded me that I forgot to block the pedal down on my Oliver 550, so I'll probably have to practice what I preached.
 
My poor 8N got caught in a flood, and was submerged for a few days. Of course, the clutch was stuck fast. I tried all the lugging, and braking, and revving, no joy.

Removed starter and used carb cleaner on the disk and the bent butter knife with the clutch tied down. I had to go around the ring a couple times, then I started blading with the clutch in. After 5 mins it let go.
 

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