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What Do I Do. Case 930

B

Bryce Frazier

Well-known Member
Hi guys, I'm back!

Need some advice on a tractor. I did some trading, and ended up with a 930 Case. They lied through their teeth about the motor, and I should have know better but decided to gamble. Long story short, I've got massive metal chunks in the pan, and the motor won't roll over. I'm sure i'm looking at a full rebuild. I'm really tossed if the tractor is worth it?

It's got a pretty nice GB Loader, bucket and bale spear. Rear tires are matched and pretty decent as well. Tractor doesn't have 3 points, just two remotes and pto.

As it sits, i'm in it about $1000. What are your guys thoughts? I really need something larger for running swather and baler. I've also gotten a pretty good size disc and cultipacker. My SuperM is still the biggest thing I have to work with. Gets it done, but is really taxing on it.


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Bryce, It's good to see you post again. I've been wondering how you were doing. I can't help you with your problem with the Case and sorry you got into this mess but wanted to let you know I'm still here.
 
drop the pan and take a look at the bottom end. see what broke and if the block is ok and not cracked or broken. pressurize the cooling system and look for leaks. you can rent a radiator pressure tester. pump it up to the pressure stamped on the rad cap, no more. it will give you a better idea what you are looking at. . save a sample of the old oil, you can send it out for autopsy.
 
Well if the loader and trans is good fix the engine and have a $5000 tractor. The tires and wheels are worth what you paid for it.
 
930's are a great tractor, but it takes a really nice 930CK to bring much over $3,500 anymore. Unless you can find a cheap motor to swap in, I doubt you will recover the cost to fix/rebuild the engine. And then who knows what else will need fixing after you get it running. You should be able to sell the loader, sell the tires and haul the rest to a salvage yard to recover close to $2,000 out of it. Are there any other 930CKs for sale in your area?
 
Ya that's what I'm thinking. Need to at least see what the situation is.

My dad has a good snap on pressure tester.
 
Did ya post over on the Case board? Lots of good information there. My limited experience from working with my brother-in-law's was that a 930 was a tough old girl that has a torque curve that's a mile wide. He also had an AC 190XT. The 930 would pull an 18' tandem disk in the the same field as the 190's 21' tandem all day long on about 1/2 the fuel & it was covering almost the amount of ground. I think the 930 was rated under 85 horses while the XT was rated @ near 100.
 
Hello Bryce glad you stopped by! Doing a quick search I was surprised at the price that Worthington has on this used engine, see link. Gets down to $2200 if you give them your core still quite a bit if you ask me. Just kind of feeling the waters and yes you could always just be buying someone else’s problems. One issue is that you don’t know the condition of the rest of the tractor namely the transmission. Since the previous owner lied about the engine you may as well ask one of the tires, lol! Not sure what to tell you.
Example used engine
 
The 930 is a great and tough tractor. Likely has a spin bearing if there is metal in the pan. That will mean a rebuild including a used or turned crank. Likely will have a cracked head or two that will need repair. Cost me $500 to get all three heads rebuilt on my 1030. An overhaul kit is about $12-1500. maybe some injector work too. So you can be done for $3000 give or take. That will put it at its sale value. But in my opinion those that base whether to repair or not on the cost compared to sale value make a mistake. I decide based on its use valu and what I can buy for that cost to replace it. Your not getting much for 3 or 4 thousand and certainly nothing with a new engine. The tranys are very trouble proof as are the ptos. If you redo the clutch when you split it you will have a lifetime tractor. The pto clutch should it go bad is around $100 in parts and less than a day to do. A lot of them still have the original hydraulic pump since they are very reliable and if not used ones are about $300. The brakes and steering are what are considered the weak spots but are not real bad and are cheap and easy to work on.
 
Like Jon said if you are going to keep it and use it,it'll pay to go thru the motor,and it'll pay out.Where people lose big time is to try to immediately resell
or a show type tractor that has very little practical use then they take a big $$$$ hit.I know of several farmers that have completely gone thru similar tractors to use on their farms,even at $20,000 its far less than buying a new comparable size tractor.
 
Welcome back! Sorry to hear about the problem with the tractor. My thoughts- you have to decide whether you want to bail out now and get what you have in it back before you get in too deep, dig a little deeper and see just how much it would need to get it back in shape, or just jump in with both feet and decide to go through it and get it running. I would go with the second option, depending on how much time you have to work on it and how quick you need it to use. One thing I will say that has already been mentioned, it is a different deal with repairing a tractor to use compared to restoring one as a hobby. Both can get expensive and very easy to get more invested than the tractor is worth. For a tractor to use / work you have to figure if you can get your money back from the service you get from it once it’s fixed or if the money is better spent elsewhere. For restoration you have to look at it as something you enjoy and not necessarily getting all your money back. Good luck and check out the Case board here for advice, there’s a lot of good people there with a lot of knowledge.
 
That's kinda my theory with pickups. I've got the 2 duramax diesels now, i'm in them deep, but still money ahead, and the both have brand new motors, and will last me a long time!

I figured about the same cost wise, my dads buddy in town will help me with any machine work, and he gets a better price at another company that turns cranks and stuff. He would help me rebuild the heads for nothing.

That's mostly what I was curious to hear about was the rest of the tractor. If they are a pretty good machine then I think it is worth fixing. This one appears to have a rebuild CaseIH hydraulic pump at the back of the tractor already. I would put a clutch in it too when we had it apart. Just makes sense while you're there right!
 
When you do the heads make sure the valve recession is set to spec. You CANNOT grind the valves. In most cases new valves and seats are required. Grinding or not properly setting the recession makes these tractors very hard to start. They are not great cold weather starters if they are perfect and with compression reduced from valves recessed too far they get real tough. The intakes should be flush which is higher than spec but works and helps with starting.
 
as others have said the 930's were good well built heavy tractors with care can go a long time.

for $1000 you didn't go wrong. tires and loader are worth that and even some of the other parts are worth a bit (amybe up to 1000ish) as well like the radiator, fuel pump, hyd pump, steering gear box (I paid $350 for a used one)

I would look for a good used engine 1st. one you can hear running and or has a written warranty (like from a salvage yard). that way you know its good and i would buy it complete with injectors/pump ect all together so you know its ok and you don't have to chase those things too. THen save/scrap/sell the extra good engine parts.

you have a few options there. a 1030 direct fit, or newer 970 and 1070 and up (s0me) will bolt in with a little work on steering (add hole) and fuel lines ect then you'd have quite a tractor. maybe you can find a good running 970/1070 with a blown power shift cheap ?? there was a loader model or 2 that used that engine too i think.

if no good used options are out there the lower end kits (cyl/sleeve/bearings) should be readily available plus finding/fixing crank. top end parts probably as
well but will need to work on the heads if needed.

Good luck.
 
You are already a winner. That loader is worth twice as much much as you have invested. It easily mounts to many brands and models of tractors without having to buy expensive specialty mounts, A piece of 8" channel iron to bolt across the front bolster of most tractors, and some angle iron for clamps around rear axles and you are in business.
The physical appearance of the tractor appears excellent. We have parts suppliers/friends, on the CASE DB forum who can supply quality parts at very reasonable prices.
Rebuilding the engine would be a no brainer for me. I installed 1/8" over sleeves and pistons in mine and redid the heads. The engine is now 426cu.in. and pulls like a bull. It has plowed about 600A pulling a 5x18 plow
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Loren
 
I knew you would be the guy with the answers! Thank you, that's what I wanted to hear.

A buddy thinks he has a 3point hitch that would fit onto this tractor, and I think rebuilding the motor is probably what should happen. The general consensus seems to be that they are a very hard working, and reliable tractor!

I love the idea of a 5 bottom plow too!! :)
 
Hey Bryce, nice to hear from you!
Is your 930 gas or diesel?
Don't laugh, I had a 930 CK row crop that was gas, so technically a
941, but it said 930 on the side and I don't know enough to tell gas
or diesel apart from that picture.
As others have said, you're not in a bad spot either way.
What I can tell you is that the gas version is very thirsty compared
to the diesel version.
I had to re-do the heads on my gasser. Valves were pricey for it.
Once it was done, it was a great tractor other than fuel economy.
I sold it to a local produce farmer who is still using it this year.
 
I really like the looks of the 30 series Case tractors and they are great tractors, but for the same money, I'd rather drive a Case 70 series tractor. Bryce would need to run the 930 for several thousand hours to recover the cost of rebuilding the engine. That could take 5 to 20+ years. For the same total cost he could be driving a more modern 70 series tractor instead of a 30 series tractor for all those years.

Case 870, 970, 1070 or 1175 tractors would have updated engines with torque curves similar to the 930. The chassis and operator's stations on those tractors are light years ahead of that 930 with: real power steering; power brakes; in this case a 3 point hitch with draft control; dual speed PTO; better operator comfort; much quieter cab; wide front end that are stronger and turn shorter than the 30 series WFE; and either the same bullet-proof eight speed transmission, or a handier 12 speed power shift transmission.

The loader and tires would fit a 70 series rowcrop tractor too.
 
All true except it still leaves him wondering if it's good. Those are still 40-50 years old and can have the same issues. And it will require $5-10,000 to get a nice 70 series here and then there is no knowing how good the engine or transmission is. With less than $5,000 in The 930 he will know it's good and reliable. But certainly the 70 series is a better tractor and if he has the money worth the extra to get.
 
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