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In frame

D

David G

Well-known Member
My Farmall H has great oil pressure, no leaks but smokes. It was my dad's tractor, and he got it when it was stuck, cleaned up and put rings in it. I did a split and put clutch and rear main seal in when I got it 10 years ago. I am thinking of doing an in frame on it, maybe no bearings if they look good.
 
Probably bad camshaft bearings. They tend to be overlooked when an overhaul is done. They will make an H smoke so much you'll think it has a diesel installed. Don't have a clue why, but they do, in my experience.
 
It depends on how much you used it in those 10 years. If only a few parades and a handful of joy rides a year then yes I would say the main bearings will be fine. If you are starting it up daily to do chores for a couple hours then I would say new bearings would not be out of the question. If your in-frame means new sleeves and pistons I would replace the rod bearings and replace the wrist pin bushing and have them fit.
 
Hello David G,

I would put new bearings in, unless the measured within specs. Rings may make it smoke and use oil, while bearings will grind it to a halt!

Guido.
 
Jal-sd can you elaborate any on the circumstances that lead you to determine this? Just curious, it does make sense in theory that a lot of oil dumped on the rotating crank an rods may overwhelm the oil rings. However, to argue that the camshaft is on the downward rotating side of the crankshaft. So one could argue that any excess oil being dump on it should just be centrifugally thrown down in the pan. All this is very interesting. As much as I hate to, I will even slide out the soap box for Tractor Vet on this one. ; > )
 
I'll second the sleeve set over just a hone and rering.

The ring lands could be out of tolerance, skirt clearance sloppy.

Might want to get the wrist pin bushings replaced.
 
never heard of that one either. all worn cam brgs do is drop the oil pressure when engine gets warm.
 
It had a hone and rings after my dad got it unstuck, I will put the stepped pistons in it with new sleeves
 
Many years ago when I was young and dumb and just started wrenching for a living, I did an in frame or two and every one that I did came back to bite me. Rear main seal or front seal leaked. Freeze plug behind the flywheel leaked, it heated or something stupid happened. Years later and much wiser, I will not under any circumstance do an in frame. We rebuild a lot of engines but they come out and totally disassembled or the guy down the road can have the job.
 
Dry sleeves or wet? Dry sleeves usually require finish honing at the machine shop which would rule out an in frame.
 
It's always easiest to spend someone else's money.

Now if I'm not mistaken, tens of thousands of these tractors went back to the dealer for "in frame" overhauls when they were the front line machines, worked 10+ hours every day on the plow, and they held up fine. I think the biggest issue here will be getting the tractor enough work to properly break in the new rings.

If there are other issues such as leaks, it's not like this is a huge complicated tractor to work on. A guy can split one in a couple of hours with an engine hoist and a floor jack.
 
Myself , they come out and a total tear down with hot tanking , then we start the build , line bore checks and cleaned up if needed deck lightly dusted contour bores recut head tanked and rebuilt , crank gone over rods reconditioned , cam shaft rebuilt new lifters/ cam followers or reground , rocker arms gone over timing gears looked over . That way when done it is DONE and i will not have to deal with it later . The customer may never say to anyone how well it runs once it leaves the shop but god help you if a problem comes up after AS THAT PROBLEM will be spread to the next galaxy before you can correct the problem .
 
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