Case 1950 D crankshaft rear plug pin

Good morning,
does anyone know the diameter of the plug pin that goes in the back of a 1950 Case D crankshaft.
I have read that they are not supposed to fit tight so some oil can bleed out.
Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter

yes loose fit Contact tom Railsback on case forum . he has case books and should know.. If no answer I can find one and measure,

I saw Wilson's post so I went to my parts books; I have 4 different D seriesw books and none od them show a plug on either end of the crankshaft.

Tom Railsback

Thank you for the replies,
a couple of years ago when I started checking around as to why my engine has low oil pressure but had been rebuilt I found a couple of discussions and pictures regarding a loose fit pin that goes in the back and people lose it when they rebuild the engine not realizing there is one there. The engine was rebuilt years ago before I got it.
Thank you,
Scooter

yes but there should be one

Do you happen to have one you would be able to measure? I would certainly appreciate it.
I have an assortment of hardened pins, perhaps there will be one I could use.
Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter

In the pic you posted below it states Don Livingston has replacement pins Don has Rusty Acre and sells many odd ball parts NLA from other sources

Good afternoon,
Thank you for letting me know who posted that picture and the business information.
I am hoping to be able to split the tractor by the weekend and see what I have.
Thank you,
Scooter

Good evening,
Does anyone have a suggestion of how long I should make the tractor splitting pins. I took out the bolt that is in their place and see it is 3/4" diameter pin.
Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter

If I remember right either Don or Saeli Imp has the splitting pins for sale 315-585-9826 is their contact # I tried to verify they had them but they are Busy today and all lines were in use,,

Good afternoon,
Thank you for the reply. I have a machine shop, so I do not plan to purchase them from someone. I did find a manual page explaining the splitting process and cant tell if it says 13 and some inches or 18 and some inches. I figure that making them long would be best than short.
Thank you,
Scooter

Good afternoon,
Well, I was hoping to report that the pin was left out of the crankshaft, but it is there.
The crankshaft oil pin is .3125 diameter x 1.50 long. The cranks shaft hole is .3250.
I have to replace the pilot bearing.
After I put it back together is there any tips on how to isolate other possible locations for too much oil by pass, or test the oil pump?
The engine does not knock and I do not recall what the compression test results were, but the were in spec.

What are the torques for the flywheel and clutch cover?

Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter

Good morning,
can anyone tell me where I can buy a Case DC oil pump spring?
I have looked around, but not found one. Mines is broken up.

I could also make for find one if someone can tell me the specifications.
I am going to adjust the main and rod bearings while I am in there, I am lucky that the factory shims are still there.

I am replacing the input shaft pilot and pinion bearing and seal.
Pilot bearing is New Departure 3205 with 7505 shield
pinion bearing is New Departure 5211 double row heavy duty.

Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2020 5:14 pm Post subject: Re: Case DC oil pump spring Reply to specific post Reply with quote Edit/Delete this post
Good evening,
I finished my spring tests and have the following information for anyone who needs a Case DC spring. This produced 30 psi for my system. I just finished shimming main and rods to max .002". I also resurfaced and lapped my relief plunger and seat.

The closes spring material I could find has a lower spring rate so the spring is different length that OEM.

Spring used is McMaster 9663K27. It is 20" long and $7.22 + shipping.

To make one you need a propane or small torch.
1. Use the torch and needle nose pliers to shape one end to be closed and ground flat. start at the end of the wire to begin bending and shaping. Use as little heat as possible. Quench end. Oil or water

2. Measure 3.5" of spring + one more loop needed to close the end and cut to that length.

3. Use torch and shape end to be closed and ground. Quench end. Oil or water

4. Stand spring on ends to make sure it stands up straight so the force on the plunger will be square.

The spring cap is harder to thread up because the spring is longer. Dont worry, the spring cavity and plenty of room left.

Good luck,
Scooter