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Twisted PTO shaft update

B

BobReeves

Member
Original thread here...
https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1436003

Was going to try it as-is but the shaft had so much crud and rust it wouldn't slip together without doing allot of cleanup. The owner had purchased a new male section of tubing to replace the twisted part. So decided it would probably be just as much work to try cleaning up the twisted shaft as it would be to fix it properly. I was wrong but isn't that usually the case.

No the owner didn't expect a free repair I was the borrower and felt the least I could do was save him the trouble of fixing the PTO shaft.

Nothing is ever easy.. Shaft was held in with a roll pin which I was surprised came out fairly easily. Getting the shaft out of the yoke was another story. Ended up removing the U-joint so I could get it in my press. Of course no way to remove a U-joint without needle bearings flying everywhere. Nobody in town had the correct U-joint so now waiting for one to come in from AgriSupply.

Owner said he paid $50.00 for the shaft and the U-joint was about $35.00 shipped. Doubt one can buy a complete new PTO shaft for anything close to what it cost to repair this one.
 

I would pay for a new shaft to avoid the aggravation . I repaired a busted class two shaft for a posthole digger . Broke a yoke on the 4th hole. Bought a while new class four pto shaft . https://www.external_link.com/tsc/product/weasler-pto-drive-shaft?cm_vc=-10005
 
After repairing a posthole digger PTO shaft and having it break on the 4th hole afterwards. I upgraded the class II shaft to a class IV shaft.
Here is something at TSC that is reasonable on the price . New everything , nothing worn, missing or busted.https://www.external_link.com/tsc/product/weasler-pto-drive-shaft?cm_vc=-10005
 
If you turn the yoke 90*, you can cut it out with a torch, or maybe even drive it out
with a big hammer and punch, with out removing the u joint. Sorry this does not help
this time. Mark.
 

For what a persons time is worth and having an all new non bashed up PTO shaft. I am purchasing a new PTO shaft .
https://www.external_link.com/tsc/catalog/tractor-pto-parts#
 
Mark it is all over now, but I don’t think you are picturing the geometry of this right in you mind. The U-joint has one axis connected to the yoke of the shaft he is wanting to remove from the yoke. If the U-joint is turned 90 degrees the axis of the yoke is still blocked by the U-joint cross. Access does depend on the length of the yoke from the shaft insert location to the U-joint centerline, no matter access would still be limited to some angle from straight on with a U-joint cross still installed.
 
Ya, I was conjuring up all kinds of contraptions to press the shaft out without having to remove the U-joint but ultimately decided it would be easier to remove the joint. Even at that it took everything my little 12 ton press could do along with heat and a hammer to get it to move. No way was it coming out without a press.

Of course this was thinking I could just run down to O'Rilieys and pick up a new one only to discover nary an auto parts or farm supply store in town had one that would fit. It's Italian 27 X 74.6 mm. The 27 part was easy it was the ~75 part that was the problem.

Oh well it's on order, just another delay. At least it quit raining, maybe the weeds won't grow any taller.
 
(quoted from post at 22:45:22 06/14/20) Ya, I was conjuring up all kinds of contraptions to press the shaft out without having to remove the U-joint but ultimately decided it would be easier to remove the joint. Even at that it took everything my little 12 ton press could do along with heat and a hammer to get it to move. No way was it coming out without a press.

Of course this was thinking I could just run down to O'Rilieys and pick up a new one only to discover nary an auto parts or farm supply store in town had one that would fit. It's Italian 27 X 74.6 mm. The 27 part was easy it was the ~75 part that was the problem.

Oh well it's on order, just another delay. At least it quit raining, maybe the weeds won't grow any taller.
Click to expand...

It's a LOT easier to simply cut all 4 "legs" off of the cross, then allow the yokes to cool, most of the time the cups can then be easily driven inward and out of the yokes.

If any cups are still stuck heat 'em red hot, not heating the yoke any more than necessary, again allow to completely cool and even the most stubborn cups can be easily tapped out.

If you get to hammering with any serious intensity it's easy to bend or twist the "ears" on the yokes and the life of a new cross kit installed into damaged yokes will be short.
 
U-joint really wasn't that difficult, it pressed right out both yokes. The bear was getting the shaft/tube out of the yoke. If I had thought to come up with a way to catch the needles I could have reused the cross, hind sight and all that...

Main reason for this whole ordeal is the grass/weeds got away from me due to raining almost every day in April. My JD flail mower just can't do 2 foot tall Buffalo grass.
 


I do U-joints in my bench vise. I push one side with a small socket, with the other side going into a big socket. It takes some juggling to get all the parts lined up but then it is easy.
 
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