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Forgot the tin work

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super99

super99

Well-known Member
Forgot to post the sheet metal,it?s pretty rough,not sure if I?m good enough to save it or not. It has an extra motor panel, and one of them isn?t too bad, The rear side panels are really BAD!!! At least the hood looks pretty good, not all banged up. Chris
cvphoto3199.jpg


cvphoto3200.jpg
 
If the metal doesn't literally disappear when trying, why not sand those down, prime and repaint? May not be perfect, but I bet they would look pretty decent.
 
Whatever you do, don't SAND blast them .... maybe plastic beads or soda blasting, not sure how that works but sandblasting that thin tin (no matter what the guy doing it says) will warp those panels, almost a guarantee. Mind you, maybe some could do it but I had a set of fenders once that was ruined by a guy who claimed he was an expert.
 
I agree with the others about sandblasting.
You might want to consider electrolysis.
There are threads about it on the interwebs and probably on youtube.
 
I got a set from Lynch for an early 880 ( embossed for the decal in the rear panel) and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again v/s the work it takes to make old ones look new. The panels from them where nothing less than perfect.
 
Sand them down, put on a coat of epoxy primer, a few coats of sandable primer, sand them smooth and paint. They'll look like new. Use 600 sand paper on the sandable primer.
 


The guys are correct about sandblasting it by industrial place, but DIY, no problem. I have blasted Ford, Datsun and Oliver sheet metal, with no problem. No way my set-up is going to warp anything thicker than 22 gauge. Don't paint over any rust or you will be accelerating the rusting process. Kill the rust first by electrolysis or Evaporust or rust converter. It is a major disappointment when the paint bubbles after two years because of a tiny bit of rust down in a few pits.
 
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