MF-50 compatible bolt on engines

I've got a MF-50 with the continental z134, cracked webbing between the sleeves. Worked on it for months trying the different epoxies, solder,
and the putting allthread through the block to close the crack. I have decided to get a used continental block or a diesel.

I know it came with a perkins A3.152 from the factory. Was wondering if the bolt patterns for similar models would match for a direct fit with
the transmission/clutch and everything. So would a MF-65 AD4.203 bolt right up? Or other continental gas engines from similar-sized Masseys work.

I have located a Perkins 3.152 short block on an old welder that runs....but doesn't have the bell housing, been looking for a way to convert
it... because i know that the engine is part of the frame on the model 50.

Any help and info greatly appreciated, wish there was a conversion chart for old machines.

Hoping to find a junk tractor with a good block to haul home and overhaul and put on the 50. Can't justify putting a running $3000 engine on a
tractor I paid $2000 for, I might as well just buy another $2000 tractor.

Both the 152 and 203 used an adapter plate at engine rear to bolt up to the transmission. Where is the gas block cracked? Should be usable as is even if cracked at the top. If it's at the bottom then it would be best to find another block or engine..

The cracks are in the webbing between cylinders at the bottom where the wet sleeves seal the coolant out of the oil pan.

I think i got the crack more or less stopped but I don't ever want to break the tractor in two again, so i figured I should just find another block, i like diesel way better for more work at Idle and Id rather pay for injectors than have to mess with points every time its been sitting for two months.

So you're saying the 3.152 on that welder might work, if i can find that adapter?

Several years ago I had an Allis-Chalmers WD-45 that seeped coolant through the sleeve O-rings. Someone on this board suggested to pour Permatex Aviation Cement(brown goo)in the block until it covered the O-rings and leave it. I did that and after it cured the leaks stopped. Don't know if that would help in your situation but it is a whole lot cheaper than swapping out an engine. Otherwise, buying a diesel tractor and selling/parting out yours may be a better option. Good Luck with it!

Already been down that road brother with dissapointing effects.

I've found a $500 hobart welder with a perkins 3.152 that runs. Ive found the flywheel adapter plate, now i need to figure out if i need a plate for the front of the oil pan where the wheels bolt on or if this is not gonna work.

I doubt the welder or any other non MF engine will work.

Even though the engine may have the same name and displacement, the casting and oil pan is different to accommodate the front suspension mount. There may be other differences, a possible deal killer lurking, only to be found after investing a lot of money!

Your most economical solution is to find a guaranteed good Z134 block for that tractor. There should be still quite a few out there.

If you really want to change it to a diesel, find a donor tractor. Otherwise you will be chasing your tail finding every little bracket, fitting, bolt, and wondering "what is that hole for, what goes there, what does that bracket look like???".

The perkins has 4 or 5 different block configurations depending on application, and don't interchange. You need a tractor block, or preferably a parts tractor with the correct block.

I filled SB Chevrolet blocks in the water jackets with this stuff called hard block for drag racing use. I only used what they called a short fill, not a total fill. I had a small journal 327 which developed a sand hole in the cylinder wall and it cured that. Might work.

Are you anywhere near central Michigan?

(quoted from post at 08:36:43 04/17/20) Are you anywhere near central Michigan?

Click to expand...

Western Kentucky

I am still looking for a MF50 parts tractor.

I understand that there were 4 or 5 different block configurations, theres got to be a cross reference book, or at least an illustration of the differences between the engines/blocks. I'll pay for it to give me answers, and this is a very common engine internally.

There must have been some successful conversions or otherwise they wouldn't sell a bell housing adapter plate at tractor stores.


So far I've found:

1. A diesel AG3.152 block from a massey tractor that I believe will fit the application, but its very bare bones.... just the block, no oil pan.

2. A perkins Gas 3.152 off of a massey nearby....I'm wondering if that engine would be a direct fit in its own right... or if the oil pan is the same as the diesel.

3. Old welder equiped with a running D3.152. (CE model, which crosses to D3.152 on the perkins site, and was used in agricultural tractors)

4. Adapter plate for perkins 3.152 flywheel to fit massey bellhousings.


So far I've found a decent set of guts, a good block, and a possible rebuildable gas engine or an oil pan. Just need a way to verify that something will not work, or will work other than their memories.

Thanks for all the idea spitballing guys.

Not gonna pour concrete in the z134 btw. I'm gonna start parting out the good parts to help pay for this diesel or gas 3.152 engine, whether its directly off of a parts tractor or not.

Damm I purchased a rough MF 50 diesel for the back half. I
originally purchased a MF 50 gas with a great running engine
but a cracked rear housing and top cover and a MH 50 with
an engine needing a rebuild. The plan was to scrap the MH
50 and put the rear housing on the MF 50. The MH had such
good sheet metal I couldn?t bring my self to scrap it. A friend
of mine located the diesel to donate the rear housing. Now I
just need to get to work. Keep looking someone closer will the
parts to convert to diesel. Worth the trouble. The Perkins are
fairly cheap to rebuild and the 50 is a great little tractor.

Thanks man. I'm gonna keep looking!

Be careful with the clutch when you put the front and rear of the tractor back together.... buy the little plastic clutch tool for the double clutch that has the splines.

The first time I put the tractor back together I used a graduated wooden dowel I made on a lathe like i have in other tractors...

Not buying the $10 tool cost me $180 clutch