OT Using Old Tin

johnyquest69 · Apr 6, 2020

Want to put up another pole barn and use some previously used tin I have. It will be an open barn with just a top. What do you guys recommend to seal old holes. I know some of the nail holes won't line up. Thanks!

dewy · Apr 6, 2020

rubber butile...use everyday on tin roofs.........dewy

Janicholson · Apr 6, 2020

The most permanent goo I have found is urethane based architectural grade caulk. It is not
silicone, or siliconized anything, it is Not radical, $6 to 8 per 14oz tube. It stays on (even you
if it gets on you) Dap, Sika,and PL make it. Jim

Barts Dad · Apr 6, 2020

Patched some holes in a corrugated sheet metal shed roof with some self sticking fiberglass mesh tape then a dab of roofing tar. Ended up? painting?
the whole roof with tar based silver ?paint? made for mobile homes. Going on 15 years, no leaks.

Smalltowner · Apr 6, 2020

This stuff is real good. I have sealed roof
penetrations and gutters with no leaks after 2
summers in Texas.

db4600 · Apr 6, 2020

Agreed. Urethane or butyl. Standing seems roofs use butyl, but it is stringy and doesn?t skin over like urethane. Sticks to everything and stays plyable for movement.

37 chief · Apr 6, 2020

I had some old heavy duty tin made in the US. I may have gone overboard, but I buffed the hole to good metal, and used JB weld, then a coat of primer. Stan

Dennis Minn · Apr 6, 2020

Johnnyquest,

On a bright sunny day, look at your new roof from the inside and use blue masking tape where all the perforations are. Then you'll have "backing" for any sealant. Also, count how many tape spots there are and make sure you have the corresponding number of seals on the roof.

D.

db4600 · Apr 6, 2020

Agreed. Urethane or butyl. Standing seems roofs use butyl, but it is stringy and doesn?t skin over like urethane. Sticks to everything and stays plyable for movement.

jm. · Apr 6, 2020

I am like Jan, I have an almost flat roof between two shipping containers. I just thru it up out of used material. Took a wire brush and hit each hole and used a caulking gun with white urethane about 6 years ago and so far no leaks.

kcm.MN · Apr 6, 2020

I have a bit of a different recommendation. When we moved here, about 15 years ago, I had to seal some holes in a metal roof. I used what I had on hand, which happened to be small squares of aluminum HVAC tape. I cleaned the steel roofing with a soapy rag, dried it off and the tape is still holding a perfect seal. That same roof is covered with snow for the most part of 5 months out of the year. Still no problems. Yes, the little silver squares show up against the color of the roofing, but I can't see the color of the roof from the inside.

kcm.MN · Apr 6, 2020

By the way, much of that aluminum tape that's available nowdays is much thinner than it was back then. Still has excellent adhesive though, but if it's a thin, fragile tape, I'd use two or three layers per hole, with the top layer covering any others as protection from UV and the elements. The aluminum holds up really well and seems unaffected by those things.

Bob Harvey · Apr 6, 2020

Good idea.

ss55 · Apr 6, 2020

Can you overlap the old tin sheets enough to get a watertight roof? Generally, buildings degrade fast once the roof starts leaking and then the roof supports rot away. So constructing a new building with a leaky roof sounds like a building that won't last long. Is this a temporary building that is planned to be torn down within ten years, or is it intended to stand for the next 40 to 60 years? If you need it to last, I would not skimp on the roofing material.

Bob Harvey · Apr 6, 2020

I recommend 'Sikaflex' if available. It sticks like shirt to a wool blanket and likely bullet proof from -20C up. A little spendy. HTH P.S. unless you get the screw onable extra tips, you have to seal the cut end carefully - it will 'go off' fairly quickly.

showcrop · Apr 6, 2020

(quoted from post at 15:11:12 04/06/20) By the way, much of that aluminum tape that's available nowdays is much thinner than it was back then. Still has excellent adhesive though, but if it's a thin, fragile tape, I'd use two or three layers per hole, with the top layer covering any others as protection from UV and the elements. The aluminum holds up really well and seems unaffected by those things.

kcm.MN, If that AC tape that you are referring to is black rubber with aluminum backing, I am pretty sure that the black is butyl. I have some of that and it is incredibly sticky.

kcm.MN · Apr 6, 2020

Both of these are good aluminum tape:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DY9IXFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBOYZO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not familiar with the black butyl backing, but here's some with butyl backing that is shown being used on a commercial roof:

https://www.amazon.com/2019-Upgrade...=aluminum+tape&qid=1586216972&sr=8-16

old-9 · Apr 6, 2020

An old friend tore down a drive-in roof for the metal. He used it for a barn/shed. He plugged the holes with clear silicone,it did not leak and he had hundreds of "skylights".

JK-NY · Apr 6, 2020

I would recommend using new steel for the roof for best
chance of no leaks and save the used stuff for siding .That
being said if you use some of the tape suggested here and it
sticks good that might work out OK. Is this the older style
roofing that is nailed through the ridges on the metal? That
would be better too. I would add a suggestion that if you use
the tape or similar method you paint the roof with a roof
coating afterwards. That should help seal whatever repair you
use.

glennster · Apr 6, 2020

bob, which sikaflex are you using? i googled it and there are several products. i have some leaks on my pole barn roof and would like to seal the nails.

Bob Harvey · Apr 6, 2020

Glennster, I am not versed on the variety of products, in that I had to special order my last tube (black) that I used to fill cracks in my 40+ year old tractor tires - still holding up, BUT they don't get more than a couple of miles per annum. My first experience was in the early 70's. Long story but used the stuff to seal the ends of a manufactured log home in -20 C, it worked and as far as I know is still working. HTH

Janicholson · Apr 6, 2020

Here is the answer Jim
the one for leaks sealing doors/windows/cracks

MarkB_MI · Apr 7, 2020

A high-quality urethane sealant will probably last the life of the building. But I suggest using "stitcher" screws, which are intended to fasten sheet metal panels together. (As opposed to "drillers", which are used to attach panels to wood or steel purlins and girts.

You WILL use screws to attach your panels, won't you?
Stitcher screws

Loosehandle · Apr 7, 2020

Silicone, let some ozze through
hole helps hold it in. I have a
used tin shed for hay wagons,
lots better than a tarp lol....

OT Using Old Tin

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