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Plowing question

grandpa Love

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Bought a ford 1 bottom plow and tried it on the Ford 640. Any tips for plowing with it? Doesn't seem like I can get far enough to the right and not leave unturned ground between furrows. Wheels are as far in as they will go. Also should sway bars be used when plowing? How about disking?
 
I think you need a 2 bottom for you to be able to drive in the dead furrow. I could be wrong though.
 
Is it a true ford one bottom or is it a creation of someone?s ? Any pictures of the plow and plow hitch
 
I have a Farmall H and tried to plow with a John Deere 2-14 3-point plow and an add-on 3-point hitch. I forget the brand of the 3-point hitch. The combo never would work, the plow slewed across to the left bad and the tractor got pulled to the right. Until I realized what it was doing, and I invented a turn-buckle I had to install, that held the assembly in place so it could not slew sideways. The turn-buckle holds the assembly in place 14 inches from the right-side rear wheel. So that bottom cuts a 14-inch slice. That way both bottoms cut a 14-inch slice of sod. Works perfectly. The turn-buckle runs from a hold drilled in the right lift arm up to the frame of the plow.
 
Pictures. Also have a 3 bottom ford plow.
cvphoto127.jpg


cvphoto128.jpg

Well.....sorry about double
 
Kevin I would try the 3 bottom. Make sure you shine up the mold boards and points before you try to plow. They drag hard if rusty that?s why you paint them before storage.
 
It looks like a plow built for the compact tractors. I have a two bottom plow for my narrow Allis 5020's that would trail my dorF 961 the same way.
 
Looks to me as someone either put the plow frame together wrong or they were using it to trench.
Are the plow beam frame pieces symmetrical that they can be turned over from side to side and that would place the plow to the right more?
 
3 bottom pulls great. We busted up a garden for a lady. Never been plowed before. Busted tons of roots. Some as big as my arm. And was a bit wet. Tractor was struggling with one bottom!
 
Shoulda taken pics in the field so we could see what?s going on, not on the trailer.

A plow should follow properly and not need sway bars, but your tractor would work better with a 2 bottom, so you might have to force it wupith a small plow.

Actually looks like you could unbolting the plow frame and swap the frame pieces around, so the plow is much more to the right? Then you could center again on the sliding bar to line it up.

Paul
 
You shouldn?t have to force it . The plow should pull about right with out sway blocks or chains if it?s set right never plowed with a ford anything though and never a one bottom. I don?t really see any adjustments built into the hitch on the plow
 
I think a one bottom will just be off center on your tractor and you need the sway bars on to keep it plowing straight. Not ideal but needed for this.

Paul
 
Assembled wrong, should be on the right of center, and remember, the right tire rides in the ditch of the last pass, so your first pass won?t be very good until the second pass when the tire ?drops?into the ditch.

cvphoto131.jpg
 
JoeM maybe time to read my manual? Lol. How's things in GA? Hate this mess. Been some beautiful Saturdays for tractor shows.
 
Moving the frame to the right will move the bottom farther to the right. This plow is like the one for my 961.The rear tires would rub the fenders on the 961 to get as narrow as my 5020's if they could even be moved in. If he would want to move the plow bottom to the right spacers would need to be between the main frame and the upright frame. You can rebuild about any plow to fit a different application.
 
Those who said it needs to be taken apart and reassembled are correct. All plows intended to operate with the right tire/s of the tractor in the furro need to have the three things:
} The cut the moldboard makes should be very near the distance from the inside of the right tire.
} The land slides on the bottom/s mist point exactly straight ahead.
} The share/s must be flat to the world when the right tire/s are in the furrow.
The first rule is the one you are encountering harshly. Flip the mounts to make it position to the right, then adjust the tractor wheel tract width to make it cut fully.
Land slides are the flat vertical plates that run from near the leading edge of the point of the share, toward the rear. These direct the plows direction in the field. if worn, or improperly adjusted, the plow will "Yaw" the tractor pushing the front to the right, or letting it pull crooked to the left. This can only be looked at dynamically in the furrow, and can be a problem few realize are causing issues.
The third adjustment is basically designed in, but needs attention at various depths of cut. it is adjusted using the left lift link of the 3pt length until all bottoms are flat to the land when cutting.
A tail wheel can also be valuable to keep the rear bottom at the same depth as the front one in a multy bottom plow. Pitch.
A fine rarely done method of setting these parameters is to use a square nosed shovel and uncover a typical cut by digging out the turned soil from one pass, and a little from the previous path to actually see the contours of the cut earth compared to the undisturbed soil not turned.
Colters are rolling cutters that can create a clean furrow by slicing the soil where the leading edge of the moldboard pickes it up. Kinda like scoring glass before breaking it. it also cuts through corn stalks and other trash to keep long material from looping onto the shank causing a plugged bottom difficult to clean (manually)

Your plow needs a shin. it is a wear plate missing from the leading vertical edge where the bolt holes are. you will permanently ruin that bottom with no shin. This is the best i have. Jim
 
Jim. Good information. Thank you. I put the shin on before using it. The old one was worn badly so got a new one.
 
Certainly, good componants of the plow are important. Next is the setup.
You wrote an excellant instruction except, I think, adjusting the "left" lift link. As you said though, the plow must be adjusted on three dimensions: distance from inside of right tire; front to back with the top link; and side to side with the adjustable lift arm link. My view is/was simple, "keep the plow frame level".
We used a Dearborn Economy 2x14 mounted on our '51 8N. Our plow front to rear was preset with the original pre-set link. We never changed it. The adjustable toplinks have helped getting the right adjustment. But if not checked it can hurt plowing efficiency.
To open a land I cranked the right lift arm down about 12 or 14 turns. I picked out a mark at the other end of the field and headed out. When I reached the planned headland end, I turned around and with the right wheel about 4 to 5 inches form the the rolled ground I just turned I went back across the field.
Once the back furrow was layed, I readjusted the right lift arm up the 12-14 turns and dropped into the first furrow. A minor adjustment to the right lift arm might be required.
Hours and hours.
A dead furrow was similarly completed by adjusting the right lift arm. When the left wheel dropped into an adjacent furrow I adjusted the right lift arm down again to keep the plow level side to side.
I probably would not win any plowing contests but I was pround of neat furrows.
Interestingly, how easy it is to TRY to describe what we did, but to do so clearly is not so easy. LOL
 
There are a quite a few parts to a plow. One of them is a landside. First time I ever heard it referred to as a "landslide". I encountered a landslide in Colorado one time. Had to make a great, huge detour.
 
Much like Alabama I?m sure, fear shows may be a washout this year, maybe the late ones will make it this year! Been recovering from some surgery from January, just now starting to tinker a bit with the tractors, lot of time in the swing drinking coffee and watching the world go by!
 
An easy way to picture how your plow looks underground is, on a flat floor, drive the left wheels onto blocks equal in height to the depth you plan to plow, typically 6 to 8 inches. Lower the plow to the ground . It should set level left to right and front to back. A string along the landslide should parallel the tractor centerline when the width of cut equals the share width, 12 or 14 or 16 inches. It will be easier to see this with your 3 bottom than your 1 bottom.
 
Terminology is often regional. And as a possible source of differences my dad told me that name. Jim
 
Landside. Noun. "The part of a plow consisting of a sidepiece opposite the moldboard, for guiding the plow and resisting the side pressure caused by the turning of the furrow". I've done a lot of plowing in my day and never heard anyone call it anything but by the correct term, which is "landside".
 
One more concept. The method you describe should get things close, but they don't include the loads placed on the plow from forces in the soil, and tractive forces applied. Good starting point. Ji
 
I think that is the Ferguson plow or similar. It cold adjust the side to side and adjust the straightness or parallel to the furrow. A problem that I found with some of the plows that i have owned is that can get thrown out of straightness when hitting a rock or root. Several could not get the clamps tight enough to hold the adjustment.
Kinda like me. Some of my adjustments just don't hold anymore. LOL
 
Here is a 1 bottom I have. From the looks of yours, It is an attempt to make a 1 out of a 2. And it did not work so good. I have many such stories myself.
cvphoto283.jpg


cvphoto284.jpg


cvphoto285.jpg
 
Looking more at your plow, try Disassembling it and swapping the 2 beams side to side putting the long beam and bottom to the right. Then slide the cross bar to the other side. That would also put the sector (for lack of a better name) That engages with the handle that is missing to the out side like it is on your 3 bottom. Make any sense? Study on it a minute, see what you think.
 
(quoted from post at 05:02:30 04/05/20) Pictures. Also have a 3 bottom ford plow.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto127.jpg">

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto128.jpg">
Well.....sorry about double
Click to expand...

Where is the coulter?
 
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