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HELP!!!

Geo-TH,In

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
I shoulda learned how important dealer support is after owning a 1962 Jaguar XKE 3.8L 6 cylinder with 3 SU carbs that would need adjusting when temperature changed.

How do I get the carrier out? It was
cvphoto10638.jpg

N0 fun getting the rear end out of the terramite. I used breaker bar to jar it loose but no luck.

This is the first time I've ever worked on a rear end and I'm not a proctologist.
George
 
Geo, Danas require spreading the housing about .005 or as I recall. There was a fixture for that which was nothing more that a large ring or square thing with two pins to engage holes in the gasket face of the housing. The ring was two pieces with a pivot and bolt to force the halves apart and leave the opening clear to remove the diff. Also had a place to mount a dial indicator to show how much it spread so as not to spring the housing. Yours doesn't have the two holes. They were about 3/4 dia. and at the level of the small hole on the left side in your picture. Can't find a picture of it just now.
 
Lucky you, the ring gear has to come off of that style to remove the differential cross pin, darn it!

Be SURE and keep the caps, the bearing cups and the shim(s) that go with them on the original side, right and left.

They make "differential case spreaders" to deform the housing a little to make it easier to overcome the bearing preload and pull the carrier.

You should be able to "work" it out of there, though, as it's not a big truck axle.

<img src = "https://www.homemadetools.net/uploads/174142/homemade-differential-case-spreader.jpeg">

Differential case spreader in action.
 
just pull it out as it should not be that tight. its just the brg. preload holding it in.
 
The bearings have shims to preload the carrier, you can heat up the housing and or spread the housing with a porta- power, but the prying method will still be appropriate. Use a pry tool on top and bottom and bring the carrier out evenly side to side, are you SURE you want to pull it out cause you need to reassemble with the preload, which means you will need heat and pressure to put it back in there. Paul
 
Good luck with the project George. Good one on the proctologist comment ..... you might not be one but as long as you're not the "subject" of a proctologist's surgery, that would be even funnier.
 
This is one of the reasons why I don't like Danas.

I'd rather work on the SUs.

Dean
 
I have repaired these rears without the spreading tool. The carrier is in there tight, but you can get it out. It will have to be tapped back in with a soft faced hammer. The only thing holding it in is the bearing preload. As long as you don't mess with the shims, it will go back together just like it came apart.

Getting gears for it may be a bit pricey. The gears are hardened (nitrided). Used gears may be your best option.
 
So I'm guessing these holes on each side is where a proctologist would install a spreader so he can insert a camera without out damaging things.
cvphoto10640.jpg

George
 
A medium "I" beam parallel with the axle, and about as long as will fit left to right, on the back side (where you are taking the picture from) blocked away from the axle about a foot, can work. Put two ratchet straps over the beam, as close to the differential bulge as possible, and tighten them. This will put bending force on the axle like the spreader, and should allow ease of removal. (I have no box to think on the outside of.) Jim
 
George, differential repair is something that's best left to a shop that specializes in it. Sure, you can get it apart, but do you know how to set it up when it goes back together? You will need to:

1. Set the pinion gear depth, which requires a special fixture. (Actually, most shops cheat and just re-use the old shim stack.)

2. Set the pinion bearing preload, which is measured in inch-pounds. And since you're crushing a sleeve, you can only tighten the pinion nut. If you over-tighten the nut you'll need to disassemble the pinion and replace the crush sleeve.

3. Set the ring and pinion backlash. This requires a dial indicator, and as I recall it's done by changing the shim stack on that pesky carrier.

4. Set the carrier bearing preload, which means adding more shims to the shim stack.

Now I don't doubt that you're up to the task, but since it looks like you've already got the rear end out of the machine, it's a simple matter to take the whole mess to a drivetrain shop. They would rather disassemble it themselves than have you come in with a bucket o' parts.
 
Mark, that is complete overkill.

First thing - there is NO REASON to bother the pinion. The repair that George is trying to do does not require disturbing the pinion. All he has to do is remove the carrier unit from the housing.

Second thing. In case you did not know, the shims on a Dana rear are INBOARD of the bearings. That is, you need to remove the bearings from the carrier to access the shims. Again, there is no reason to disturb them. All he needs to do is unbolt the ring gear from the carrier unit. The most sensitive thing he needs to do is to make sure that when he replaces the ring gear, he gets it on evenly and torques the bolts evenly and to spec - which in this case is 75 ft.-lbs.

Third thing - As long as no major parts are replaced, all shims remain in place and do not need to be changed. Backlash will be in spec, and all will be fine.

The only parts being replaced as far as I can see are the side gears and the pinion gears in the carrier. Not to be confused with the ring and pinion set. These gears have No effect on the setup.

Also, bear in mind that we are looking at a machine that will probably never go faster than 15 mph. Even if the preload and backlash were not exactly to spec, does it matter? All the difference it could make would be gear whine AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS.

The most difficult thing to do will be putting the carrier back in the housing. The bearing races will want to tip to the outside, and will continually have to be tapped back straight during assembly.

Those rears are almost generic in that they were used by several manufacturers. I tangled with a few in my time at dealerships. They are a real challenge to set up, but they are also very robust.

There is no need for him to go to a specialist for this repair. If he were setting up a replacement ring and pinion, that would be a different story. What he needs to do is well within the realm of a do-it-yourselfer with a bit of guidance.
 
Thanks for your reply.
Top speed of a terramite is about a fast walk.
Planning to buy the completed differential will lockout.
I'll give it the old college try.

2 miles south is a good country mechanic I trust if I have a problem.

Also known a young red neck mechanic.
George
 
I will come out and go back in without a spreader a spreader just make life so much easier...

You are gonna need to nail the housing down and use a long sturdy pry-bar to "pop" it out...

I have a spreader I have used it one time most of the time I am doing it in the vehicle there is no room for the spreader... : (

You will get it... We are pull'N fer ya...
 
It wasn't clear to me exactly what George intends to do. Assuming the pinion seal isn't leaking, I agree there's no reason to mess with it. But if it is leaking, now is the time to fix it.

He says he is going to buy the complete carrier, rather than replace the differential gears. That's a different repair than what you describe. Will he reuse the old bearings? They're apparently OK, given how tight the carrier is in the housing. But replacing them saves the aggravation of pulling the old bearings from the old carrier. Will that require messing with the backlash and preload?

The ring gears I've messed with have all been interference fit and have to be heated to remove and install. I assume that's the case here as well. And the ring gear bolts were left-hand thread.

If I was doing this myself, I would probably put in a bearing kit, just because they're cheap and replacing them avoids future problems. The last time I bought a kit, it included carrier bearings, pinion bearings and seal, crush sleeve, shim packs, ring gear bolts and gasket for around a hundred bucks.
 
Jimg I could have not said it any better. Not rocket science, not like he is dealing with a 200 mph drag car. Twenty year old termite that has maybe a 20hp engine. If like you say it keeps it clean and puts it back as removed I am betting it will out live old George. He is a pretty sharp cookie , he will figure it out.
 
George I would sell it to larry now and replace it would save all that work and you could just go back to working in the yard. Win win. Larry come and get your Terrimite it's waiting for you.
 
If it were me I'd take the whole rear down to his place and get him to check out everything and do the work while you have it out and apart especially the bearings.
 
If you buy the complete carrier, you will have to remove the ring gear from the old one and transfer it to the replacement unit. You will also need to transfer bearings from the old one - or just replace them. But, you will want the old shims as a starting point.

You get a pretty good window for backlash, but in a low speed unit, it really isn't critical. You will want some bearing preload, but again, it is not a precision thing for a low speed vehicle. Removing used bearings from the old carrier without damaging them is a difficult thing to do. Most fixtures for pulling them tend to damage the bearings if they don't fit just right.

Good luck.
 
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