old hoe drill?

THORNHILL

Member
Morning Fella's, Hey can i get some insight. I want to replace my seeder. Would love a no-till drill but I just can't afford it right now so i've decided to keep conventional farming my dirt and I currently am using a co-op disker. I have found a Morris Seed-rite about 5 hrs away and the price is right and pictures look like the machine is in good shape. It has rear harrow tines and a weed bar. I have never used anything but my disker, my farm has everything from light sandy soil, heavy soil, wet, and rocks. Just would like any input on this old drill thanks
 
(quoted from post at 06:45:41 04/03/20) Morning Fella's, Hey can i get some insight. I want to replace my seeder. Would love a no-till drill but I just can't afford it right now so i've decided to keep conventional farming my dirt and I currently am using a co-op disker. I have found a Morris Seed-rite about 5 hrs away and the price is right and pictures look like the machine is in good shape. It has rear harrow tines and a weed bar. I have never used anything but my disker, my farm has everything from light sandy soil, heavy soil, wet, and rocks. Just would like any input on this old drill thanks
I planted with Morris seedrites for over a decade and found they did a good job if there was not too much trash in the soil. Much straw though and it would plug up. Especially the rod on the back. That can be removed but then it won't kill all the weeds. Not a problem if you are pre working. or spraying the weeds. As good as they were I would never go back from the Bourgault air seeder I have now. Great trash clearance and penetration. Biggest advantage is cleaning out the seed box between crops. TAkes minutes on the Bourgault and not much seed wasted. Seed rites you needed a shop vac and a lot of time. I have several videos on youtube working with my SeedRites back in the nineties.
 
Good info, I wondered about how well they would penetrate minimal tilled ground. I don't sew a lot of acres about a 100 per year oats or barley to switch out aging hay fields and then I always have lots of trash. This seeder is out in your neck of the woods, Esterhazy. Like I said a no-till drill would just be ideal, save me a lot of work and would really be able to manage my land better. Do you think having things custom sewed for a couple years until I can afford something better would be smarter than purchasing this Morris (which has int been used in 20 years) ? Friend of mine has a press drill he will seed for me if I need I'm tired of my disker! with the way all things have gone with my land, weather and years prior crops, field shape, my disker has just been making a mess it seems
 
Good info, I wondered about how well they would penetrate minimal tilled ground. I don't sew a lot of acres about a 100 per year oats or barley to switch out aging hay fields and then I always have lots of trash. This seeder is out in your neck of the woods, Esterhazy. Like I said a no-till drill would just be ideal, save me a lot of work and would really be able to manage my land better. Do you think having things custom sewed for a couple years until I can afford something better would be smarter than purchasing this Morris (which has int been used in 20 years) ? Friend of mine has a press drill he will seed for me if I need I'm tired of my disker! with the way all things have gone with my land, weather and years prior crops, field shape, my disker has just been making a mess it seems
 
(quoted from post at 07:46:28 04/03/20) Good info, I wondered about how well they would penetrate minimal tilled ground. I don't sew a lot of acres about a 100 per year oats or barley to switch out aging hay fields and then I always have lots of trash. This seeder is out in your neck of the woods, Esterhazy.
Do you have access to Morris dealers for parts? I found they gave problems with fertilizer in wet weather. Output would drop because the moisture solidified the fertilizer in the outlets of the box and it was quite a job cleaning them out. I seeded with a Massey 360 disker prior to that and got good results too. Biggest advantage to the Seedrites was able to seed back and forth rather than round and round with the one way disker.
With the two M11 Seed Rites road transport was a real workout as I had to split them, remove the hitch and then put it all back together when I got to the field. A back breaking job I'd never do now.
 

I don't have a Morris dealer close by. Ya and seeding with a disker is like nascar....left turns all day long! As far as transport I have two 15' co-ops together and transport is a bit of an animal, I dont put the first disker in full transport just the rear one and I pull packers too then they like to pop off when I hit a bump in the road. There tough to wrangle outta the ditch and hook back up. I wont sell my disker as it does have its place here, but this year especially its not going to be the ideal seeder.
mvphoto51829.jpg
 
I'll reiterate the notion that hoe drills along with conventional till single disc drills like CLEAN seedbeds.
 
I've got some video of planting with the M11 Seedrites and 2390 way back in 1990. Worked great on black summerfallow and even canola/mustard stubble was ok. Any cereal stubble I'd guess would have to been combined with a good chopper and short stubble. The spacing on the Seedrites as I recall was 8 inch. Same as the Bourgault 8800 I seed with now but the shanks are a long ways apart from front to back of the seeder so there is more time for straw to work it's way through. I've always been impressed how well the 8800 works. They are a lot more expensive than Seedrites but good used ones have come down quite a bit in price. Transport is so easy.

cvphoto10627.jpg

Seedrites in 1990
 
My recollection as a kid that a hoe drill caught any coarse trash that may have been at the top of the seedbed. The old Ontario drill we had did not have staggered gangs so that might be a difference. Spacing between hoes matters, too. I'd still recommend no trash or disk the trash up so it is broken up into small material. Corn stalks especially w/o a chopping feature on the cornhead are a problem with old drills outfitted with hoes.
 
(quoted from post at 15:23:50 04/03/20) My recollection as a kid that a hoe drill caught any coarse trash that may have been at the top of the seedbed. The old Ontario drill we had did not have staggered gangs so that might be a difference. Spacing between hoes matters, too. I'd still recommend no trash or disk the trash up so it is broken up into small material. Corn stalks especially w/o a chopping feature on the cornhead are a problem with old drills outfitted with hoes.
I've never had to work in corn stalks but would guess they would plug up a Seed Rite pretty quick. Especially if the rod is down in the ground. If you have a good combine chopper that chops fine I can see it working but not if the straw is any length. Standing cereal stubble would be a problem too unless it is cut short.
 
(quoted from post at 23:06:03 04/03/20) Yes they need staggered ranks or all they are is dump rake
I've thought about it and by the sounds of it an older hoe drill isn't going the be the answer right now either. I'm going to look for diamond harrow and keep using disker until I can afford a no-till unit. Then my one field with rocks I might even broadcast seed? One of my biggest problems is rough fields and seed depth if I over work the field my light western harrows just tickle and a diamond harrow I think will help greatly. As far as seeding with the disker it does look after weeds well goes through trash and always finds good moisture.

Oh and Rooster, that 2390 sure looks sharp with that morris drill behind !
 

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