John deere b started but still need help

littleredb

New User
My 1952 John deere b started. I followed the advice given to me in an earlier post. I removed the air cleaner pipe from the carburetor and the tractor started, I had the throttle positioned about half open. When I pulled the throttle back to the idle position gas started coming out of the carburetor air intake and the tractor started to sputter. When I pushed the fuel lever back to half open gas quit running out of the air intake and the tractor quit sputtering. When I shut the tractor off gas ran out of the carburetor air intake also.
 
To me that says you carb float is either sticking part way open or the needle valve is not stopping the gas flow. Time for a carb cleaning/rebuild
 
Common problem, usually trash in the needle valve.

Something to try, close the fuel valve, drain the carb or start it up, let it run the bowl empty until it dies of fuel starvation. Then open the fuel valve. Sometimes the inrush of fuel will flush away whatever was holding the valve open.

If the tank is contaminated with rust and dirt this will be a recurring problem. Inline filters are a temporary fix, as they don?t work well with gravity flow systems.

Other causes are a partiality sunk or damaged float, a bad needle and seat, or float level set too high.
 
Those plastic in filters work great see them all over at some tractor shows. I have been using a couple of them on dirty tanks and they just do their job
 
I have thrown at least 50 of those in line filters away due to them being a major problem since most are made to have a fuel pump in the system
 
I have had success with Filters for fuel injection for Honda, and Subaru (likely others) They flow like a tin horn, and can settle out flakes and rust in the bottom when not flowing fuel. But those little plastic jobs are worthless. I had a car with fuel system issues. It had a OEM little plastic filter, and there was no fuel in the carb. I put a new filter in it and in 5 minutes it was sputtering to a stop again. Bot filters looked good, but 20psi air would not blow through them. There was a piece of cardboard that was placed in the tank by a youngster. It dissolved into light brown short fibers. A removal of the tank, and paint filtering of the contents (4 filters) worked, along with rinsing the tank. There are really good filters for gravity systems, from the auto supply industry, but unless asked for. The original filters and sediment bulbs are all that is really needed. As the cap says "buy clean fuel Keep it clean". Jim
 
Jim, I put one of the glass screw together filters on a Kawasaki 4x4 a few years ago.

It had a screen inside, though it would be good for a gravity system, and it worked first time out. A week later, it wouldn?t run.

Found no gas would pass through the filter, none! But it appeared perfectly clean.

Opened it up, the end gaskets were swollen. Wrong kind of rubber. It swelled to make a perfect seal around the outlet end, not a drop could get through.

In the trash...
 
Finding a compatibility issue after assembly is bad enough when it is in one's own equipment, In a customer's is nasty. Honda made tens of thousands of cars with floats that were melted by MTBE,methanol, and ethanol. Not the best plan. Jim
 

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