Can this be fixed

I was going to do some work on the crank on my John Deere-Lanz 510. When I took it apart I found where the mounting bolts go into the block, part of the block was missing. Does anyone know of a way to fix the block (other than getting a new one)?
Thanks

A knowledgeable welder can weld that up and drill and tap new holes

I have seen good welders. Make some very odd repairs.

theres a welder in my area that could fix that, he not cheap but he is really good at what he does. I used to do it too till weld fumes got best of me.

Yes it can be repaired , it can be done a couple different ways . Many moons back in my wild days of fast cars i was PLAYING a bit and Blew the clutch at around 7000 RPM , now back then all we could get were NASCAR scatterproof bellhousings that were made of cast STEEL and they were vary proud of the fact at the time and the word STEEL was cast into it , Well the Schiffer dual disc BLOW PROOF turned out not to be blow proof and it came unglued and reeked havoc as it came straight on thru the bell and started it rath of destruction , first to go was the steering shaft , then the master cylinder ( never did find that. holes thru the hood big dents in the floor boards clean back into the back seat area and it also took the two bottom bolt bosses off the bottom of the block . This engine started from a brand new bare block and was piecemealed together with things being done to it that had never been tried before and i was looking at a boat anchor now . Probably in todays money i had around 50 maybe 60 K in that engine . I was a fledgeling welder still learning and after talking with shell we say my mentor he said fix like so and Veld it ( he spoke broken english . SOOOOOo what i did was first i started off with qa new bell housing and bolted it to the block as just the two bottom bosses were broke off after i ground them down and vee'd them and i took some steel just plan old mild steer and made up to predrill and tapped bosses and ground to fit the so i could bolt them in place and tack weld them cold . once in place i removed the bell and did the preheat and set into welding . Lay in a bead then peen and chip then a light grinding with a carbide burr and then a wire brushing and lay in the next and so on till it was built up . Since i could not bury it in sand to let the heat seep out i gradually took the heat out by moving the torch away for the work areaand it took about a half hour per side . Once done old Webber came over to check my work WITH A HAMMER . Well i got it wright the first time as they did not fall off and got my toy all healed and ran it for two and a half years hard every Friday , Saturday and Sunday at the drag strips . I was lucky as no one got hurt when this all happened and was and eye opener for me . A week after my clutch let go a guy that owned a Vett was not so lucky when he blew his clutch as he lost both feet . For your repair you have two ways to go , One is grind off what is left of the boss and make a steel piece and weld that on or do a Build with NI Cast and drill and tap.

I could repair that, here is a Ford truck head that I repaired .

I,m in southwest Mich.

I know a guy in Minnesota that would have that fixed by dinner time lunch time for city folk