OT ATV drain plug stipped help needed

I bought a used ATV from a private party and when I went to change the engine oil the drain plug felt funny when removing it. After draining the oil out and reinstalling the drain plug I couldn't get it to thread in. Come to find out that there was a helicoil that must have unscrewed when removing plug. Maybe a full thread is protruding now and I would guess the helicoil maybe damaged.

I think I can get the helicoil out. It's a aluminum engine casting and still in the ATV. If anyone has a success story on how to do a repair like this I sure would appreciate to know how you went about doing the repair.

DW
 
For now, snip off the protruding length of the heli-coil, put the plug back in and see if it will snug up to a reasonable tightness.

If you want to make it better, spend the $$$ for a Time-sert kit, or take it to a place that has one.
Time sert
 
Is it possible to get the next size plug drill it out and tap it out you would have to do something to make sure you got all the shavings out
 
The problem with trying to do any kind of thread repair is getting the hole drilled and tapped straight. With nothing to reference to, it is impossible to use a drill guide, eye-balling it is a gamble at best. (A bad gamble if I'm holding the drill!)

If the pan is accessible the best solution would be to replace it.

If I were going to try repairing it installed, I think (without seeing it) I would pull the Helicoil out, carefully try to drill the straightest hole possible and tap it for taper pipe thread. (Just an FYI, a taper tap only goes part way into the hole, typically leave about 6 threads showing). Reason for using taper pipe, a taper thread hole is more forgiving of being crooked that an Oring or gasket type plug.

To minimize chips, dip the drill and tap in heavy grease to "help" trap the chips, rinse the hole with spray cleaner afterward. Work it with the hole in the downward position.
 
take a look at marine rubber expansion plugs. these are rubber and stainless steel. insert in hole, twist it to tighten, unscrew it to remove. kind of an east peasey fix, no machining necessary. here is a link
poke here
 
I had good luck JB welding a pipe bushing into the pan of a Yanmar engine and using a plug in the now smaller center hole of the bushing. Key to that is draining the oil overnight and then wash with copious amounts of brake cleaner until no trace of oil drips out while the JB sets up. Then always use a second wrench to hold the bushing when removing the plug. Good Luck!
 
Got any pipe taps or can borrow one? Depending on what is back in the drain hole, you might be able to tap it for the next size larger pipe plug.

Just don't put a Brass plug in!!!!! It will become permanent in aluminum. (I had to drill out one on someone's lawn mower.)

Another idea: Auto parts stores sell oversize drain plugs. They might could match up an oversize automotive drain plug that is bigger than your helicoil threads. I think they just cut threads in the hole as you screw them in. At least that is the way the one in my '88 Chevy is.
 
Wow.

Thanks for all the great replies. What awesome group of people on this site.

I'm going to go with the Time Sert if I can find the needed tools to rent. Since we are in a stay at home mode for thee next two weeks I'll look into the Shaw plug at McMaster Carr so I can at minimum move the 4 wheeler out of the way.

Thanks Again
DW
 
Back in the seventies and eighthys the made rubber oil plugs that looked like the small birthday balloons had a bulb on one end and a flange on the other. The flange end had a hole in the center. Used a plastic rod in the center hole to push the plug in and had to pull the flange with pliers to remove the plug. They worked good. Probably still available.
 

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