Sticking Valve ??

wolfman

Well-known Member
Old 230 Farmall, used to get used a lot and now gets started once a year cause I should run it. Usually very smooth engine but this year seems to have a valve stuck. STA-BIL fogging oil can says take off air cleaner ... Old oil-bath air cleaner how? I removed each plug and sprayed the fogging oil in, replaced plugs and turned the engine over 8 or 10 times with the crank. Did I just waste my time or ???
 
Fogging oil is more a preventive than a problem solver.

Easy way to get it in is pull the rubber hose off the carb, or remove a plug in the intake and spray it in running.

Putting it in the plug holes won't hurt, but it probably didn't get to the valve stems where it is needed.

You will probably end up removing the valve cover and spraying something like penetrating oil directly on the valve stems through the springs.

You will see the stuck valve. Concentrate on that one. Sometimes gently tapping it with a small hammer will pop it loose, or prying between the spring coils will work it back up. Once loose, give it a good dose of penetrating oil, let it soak, then start it up and watch that it doesn't stick again.

If there is evidence of rust and moisture under the valve cover, there could be an external source of water getting in, or possibly a head gasket problem. Sometimes it's just condensation. It may need more run time, getting it up to operating temperature, under load if possible.
 
Another thing that has worked beauty in my garden tractors. Change the oil over to a synthetic blend of oil. When you take the valve cover off on my engines to check the valve set there is no carbon at all. Spotless clean. See what others say but it works for me. I use 5-20 in my BRIGGS and Kohler engines.
 
Is it just sticking or did the push rod come disconnected? I had a 404 with that series engine and it had a push rod get out from the tappet. Valve cover is easy to get off to check it out. You may even be able to reuse the gasket if taken apart gently. I would be pulling the cover just to be sure.
 
yep waste of time. you need to actually mix some 2 cycle oil in the gas when using the tractor. you had to spray that junk into the carb inlet while running engine at a fast idle. it may be sticking due to a tight guide or carboned up engine.
 
Yep needs to pull off the valve cover and have a look before doing anything else.I bought an Oliver 66 not running got it started dead miss on #4 took off the valve cover both valves were
adjusted so they couldn't close.
 
Ok now that everybody gave you there SNAKE OIL FIX , here is how i would address the problem . Pull the freeking valve cover and MANUALLY check each valve for smooth operation , check rocker arms for free floating ,check you push rods to make sure that you do not have a couple BENT push rods . If you have a sticking valve this can be caused by RUST , carbon build up or a bent valve . If it is rust or carbon probloem then get yourself a can of ZEP penetrating fluid this stuff is the best out there bar none , hard to find because it is NOT SOLD at the Walmarts or BIG BOX parts stores this is and industrial penetrating fluid . I buy it by the case and i can tell you it IS NOT cheap , it does not take much and you advised to use the spray tube and apply it lightly , a little spray here and there and a elf hammer will free up a stick valve in no time or a sticking rocker arm . It will NOT straighten out a bent valve or push rod . If the head has to come off then myself i would have the valve guides reamed and install bronze guide inserts as this will stop valves rusting to the guide , they are easy and fast to install.
 
you are correct., but when a person reads posts you know that person has never been inside a valve cover so they wont know what to look for . so they get the easy first on the list to do thing. stuck valves can even require head removal and valve removal for clean up . I have done that also.
 

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