Fuel tank repair.

DeltaRed

Well-known Member
I have a transfer tank. Acctually a 'siamese' talk. Two 50 gal tanks tack welded together. I recently developed a leak between the tanks. I ground the tacks apart to separate them. They have some serious rust in a couple of spots between. One has a 1/16" hole. Is there a repair I can do short of welding a patch on? Any JB weld type of product that would seal?I'm gonna need them this spring,as Ive got a couple of big plowing jobs 15 miles away in addition of my usual spring work. Steve
 
I had a L shape transfer tank that developed a leak last year. I ground, and cleaned to bare metal. Applied J/B Weld and let it sit to cure. Worked for a couple of weeks. The diesel then started seeping out again. My advice, for what its worth, throw the tanks away and get another. Find a fuel tank off a truck and make one if nothing else. I found a nice 100 gallon aluminum tank with a electric pump on FB market place to replace my bad one.
 
If there is rust making holes, it is pretty much a lost acuse unless there is enough value in the fitments and utility to cut them open wide enough to allow thorough cleaning, then welding. Welding is still risky. I also believe that a Road tractor tank is a good option. Jim
 
Delta, several things should work. Had a guy use some of that flex seal stuff you see advertised all over the place, he said it worked good. Has been holding for at least a year or two now. I used some epoxy metal type stuff, can't remember exactly what it was called, on 10 ton dump fuel tank last fall, so far so good. A couple spots still seep a little but I didn't take the time to do a good prep job as needed to run and was getting too cold. Plan on hitting those spots when it warms up this spring/summer. Paul
 
If the rust is external, as in where the tanks were in contact with each other, you might grind away the rust down to good metal, then epoxy on a patch. There are specialty epoxies for fuel tanks, and I have used JB on gasoline tanks, worked well.

Or weld it if you are comfortable with your effort to safely do so.

But if the rust is inside, on the bottom from water getting through the rusted hole, might not be worth the effort.
 
The rust is on the outside/Where the two tanks contacted one another. Build up of hay and dirt that held moisture.
 
I was very happy with my JB weld gas tank repair until two years later it started leaking, I could pull it off like banana peel... not pleased any more. I bought Permatex gas tank repair, comes like a 3 inch sausage. It has the hardener in the center. You cut off the length you need and knead it together well and apply. It is really good!! The repair consisted of up to 5 small holes. The fix is still just as good several years later. I once fixed a crack in a hydraulic oil tank the same way - end of problem.
 
One hole, 1/16" diameter? Quick and dirty fix is a self tapping screw with a leather washer under the head. Make the washer from an old shoe if you can find one that still uses leather. While you are doing it, make several washers for the extra screws you will be needing in the near future as more holes show up. This fix is not permanent. The one my father made on the tractor fuel tank has only lasted for the past 50 years but I suspect it will fail sometime in the next 50.
 
My brother had a jeep we just cleaned then put Marglas fiberglass body stuff over the top of the entire tank sealed it up he sold/traded it off several years later.
Currently My brother uses a barrel with a pump in it for fuel. I use an old aluminum truck tank with a pump in it. Had a coupling welded in to the top with a piece of aluminum plate put over it to reinforce the tank. Works good is a 100 gallon one.
 
22 gauge stainless steel formed to the tank and a good epoxy to keep it there. Have done that on my semi fuel tanks where the aluminum eroded under the hold down strap. Cut a piece of 20-22 gauge stainless to fit and form.
 

I would go exploring first with a #80 flap wheel and see what you really have. You may find that there is a lot more rust than you think or you may find that it is isolated to a couple small areas.
 
Delta, the tank I worked on the rust/ pin holes were behind the spec plate (this was on a 10 ton dump). I just didn't sand and clean the area quite good enough for the epoxy metal to stick good, plus the temperature was getting a little below what the directions called for. The stuff I used was a two part in a stick, break a piece off and knead the two together til mixed then apply. Just went and looked for the remainder-- is called PC-Metal -- packaging says "Repair Fiberglass, Gas Tanks, Radiators, Wood, Metal, Brick, Marble". Listed for Auto and Plumbing repairs. Also says it is waterproof/impermeable. I think I picked it up at the local hardware store. Paul
 

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