Questions about a rear tube valve stem

dsebens

Member
I have a 14.9x24 tire and had to replace the rim due to the valve core giving out and the calcium chloride rotting it. The tube holds air and is in good shape once I buff off the rust flakes, but the valve stem spins in the tube. I assume this isnt normal. Has anybody encountered this before? I could purchase a glue on patch to go there unless somebody else knows an old farmer trick or something

Thanks,
Darren.
 
Just replace the tube , it is not that much money. Why fool
around with used junk that will leak again
 
not sure what you mean by the stem spinning , but most large tubes have what is called an intermediate stem that the shredder valve screws into, the intermediate valve just unscrews and can be replaced
 
I'm a bit torn on replacing it because I've heard the new tubes are worse quality than the old tubes and this one seems to be in good shape other than the stem. It's about $50 for a tube for this, I just dont want to replace the tube to find out I have issues with the tube being too thin or something.

Plus the glue on stems are under $10.

I dont want to do this job twice but just trying to find the best option.
 
(quoted from post at 12:47:29 02/04/20) not sure what you mean by the stem spinning , but most large tubes have what is called an intermediate stem that the shredder valve screws into, the intermediate valve just unscrews and can be replaced

Not the water valve or air valve, the whole stem spins in it. The other poster mentioned that the brass had came unseated, that would be correct in what I am seeing. But if I pull it tight it wont move so it makes me think that with the rim nut and air pressure it would seat it. I also thought about putting some tire cement in there before pulling it tight.

I've tried to pull the stem out but there is no way it's coming out. That makes me think there is little worry that the rim nut will pull it out.
 
Maybe to get a better answer tell us if it?s a wet tire or dry ???
If it?s wet with calcium I sure can?t see why fool around with some used tube that guarantees nothing.
 
The tube is junk. Replace it with a new one. Yep,a new tube cost $50(or more) but when you have to fix it the second time,you still will need a new tube. Do it right the first time. I personally wouldn't mess with a glue on replacement. Even our local tire shop refuses to use them.
 
Has anyone ever figured out how to get the replacement stems to glue on properly? IF so what glue did you use?
 
I m sure just like a patch you scuff the tube then apply vulcanizing cement and allow to dry then apply stem patch
 

I won't say a repair stem will not work, it might work out fine for you. You need to be sure you get the same type stem (TR218A or TR220A) repair your tube has if you plan on adding ballast and to secure the stem to the rim. If there is any Calcium Chloride contamination left in or on the old tube it is more likely the bond of the patch will fail and it will have some pull where it is anchored to the rim. For the price of a new tube you are risking the patch cost and the loss of anything you use for ballast in the tire, plus downtime for another repair. Yes, it might leak out slowly but chance is as good that the patch might separate and dump the fluid out; in a location where repair is not convenient. As for the new tubes not being as good as the old ones, that might have some validity if you were comparing a new "old" tube to a current new tube. You are comparing your old, repaired tube that contained Calcium Chloride to a new tube; personally I think the new tube is the better option, especially with a new rim. Its your choice, just think it all through, not just the price of the stem patch compared to a new tube. JMHO
 
Thanks for all the thoughts and info. I decided to just go with a new tube. I wish I could trust the tires to be tubeless but I m afraid it will leak out of them. They are pretty old
 
Most old tractor rims where never made to be tubeless. If you ever look at a tubeless rim and compare it to a tube type rim you will see they are a bit different where the bead sits
 
I hadn t thought about the possibility of de beading since there is no lip on the bead surface to retain the bead
 
My tire guy uses Just plain old patch glue he lets it setup Longer than he does when doing a regular patch and then he stitches it longer he makes em hold
 

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