(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Wiring

F

Ferguson to-30

Member
I am re-wiring a Ferguson to-30. It only has a 12volt alternator, 12volt coil, manual start switch, 12volt battery, 12volt starter, key switch, and 30-0-30 ammeter. Does this look correct and if not what do I need to do to correct it? I am also going to put a diode in the wiring close to the alternator. Not the best at wiring so all the help is appreciated.
 
mvphoto48259.jpg
 
Power wire from ammeter to switch: Ammeter end should be on the alternator side of the ammeter, Switch end should be on a BAT input, not the I (Ignition) terminal. Your diagram shows ignition and alternator #1 being always "hot".

Install the diode with marked band toward #2 pin on alternator. It's purpose is to prevent the engine from continuing to run when switch is turned off
 
The key switch is only labeled with a L and I. What is the other one, I don t know. So I need to move the jumper wire from the ammeter to the blank lug on the key switch?
 
Sorry, need to move the jumper wire to the alt side of the ammeter and to the blank lug, correct? And which side of the ammeter does the wire coming from the alt need to be on?
 
The amp meter- The battery should be on one terminal, alternator and switch feed on the other.

Ignition switch- The feed from the amp meter needs to be on the "BAT" terminal, the power to the coil and alt #1 go on the "IGN" terminal.

Alternator- The wire from the ignition switch to the #1 alt terminal needs a diode, or a 10 ohm, 10 watt resistor, or a small instrument lamp wired in series.

Alternator note: I see you labeled the terminals 1R and 2F. Is this an internal regulated alternator? If the terminals are parallel as in "II" with a square plug, it is an external and needs a regulator. If the plug terminals are end to end "- -" with a rectangular plug, it is an internal regulated and will work as drawn.

Wire gauge: The wire from the alt #1 and #2 can be 14ga. Be sure to use low voltage automotive wire, not stranded house wire. Automotive wire is finer strand, more flexible and vibration resistant.
 
Here is a picture of the alt. Ok, from what I gathered reading your post- it is wired correct in the second picture? And since there is no lights does it matter what post on the ammeter the wires go? It is just a two post ammeter, no back lighting.
 
That is an internal regulated alt, so good there.

It will need the diode, resistor, or a small lamp in the #1 to ign switch circuit.

It will need a #10 wire from the output to the amp gauge.

Here is a good, simple wiring diagram. If you have a true 12v coil, you won't need the ballast resistor ahead of the coil. Go by this and it will work.
Alternator Conversion
 
Do yourself a favor. When you get close to finished drop over to harbor
freight. There are three sizes 1/4-3/8, & 1/2 inch. That 1/4 will cover most
anything on a tractor. Very handy stuff. They have a split down the side so you
can just snap it on. When I rewired my little tow behind trailer the WHOLE wire
harness got shielding. Super neat and protected. Looks super duper factory:).
cvphoto3090.jpg


cvphoto3091.jpg
 
I myself much prefer an idiot light. Will tell you if there are problems immediately. Remember you need a real light bulb and not an LED. Also tells you if you forgot to turn the key off if you run your carb dry before storing it. You see a nice red glowing light on the dash. Believe me, BTDT!!!
 
(quoted from post at 16:53:36 01/24/20) Yes, the revised drawing will work.
Click to expand...

Thank you for all the help everyone! I will look at getting some protective wrap and will update when I get it wired. I ll be busy for a month or so but I ll post when I m done. Thank you again, Mike
 
(quoted from post at 13:20:44 01/24/20) That is an internal regulated alt, so good there.

It will need the diode, resistor, or a small lamp in the #1 to ign switch circuit.

It will need a #10 wire from the output to the amp gauge.

Here is a good, simple wiring diagram. If you have a true 12v coil, you won't need the ballast resistor ahead of the coil. Go by this and it will work.
Alternator Conversion
Click to expand...

Any thoughts on the best spot to attach the ground from the battery?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
FORD 9N 3-Position Key Switch Wont shut off
Replies
4
Views
352
used red MN
U
T
Massey 265 w Hinson Cab
Replies
2
Views
322
The Veggie Farmer
T
J
International 786 charging help
Replies
15
Views
696
used red MN
U
B
Starter Wiring Diagram
Replies
1
Views
585
Jim.ME
J
R
Alternator Confusion, Positive Ground
2
Replies
29
Views
2K
used red MN
U
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top