Case 1370 Agri king

Looking for info on the best heating
system for the motor in the winter.
Tractor has to sit outside and gets the
wind and snow. I have a block heater in it
but it doesn't seem to fit right I'm
looking into any other component to heat
it when it is cold thanks in advance.

I like magnetic heaters. They are cheap and you can use them on anything they will stick to. We don?t get extremely cold in southern Indiana but I?ve never had trouble with them

In line coolant heaters work best. Most have a pump which will circulate coolant. Throwing a tarp over the engine will also help retain some of the heat. I have even heard of guys blowing warm air from a hair dryer into air intake at starting time, but haven?t ever needed to try this myself

We dont get extremely cold in southern Indiana? Tpu been outside today? Lol

In line coolant heater (Tank heaters) are your best bet. Get a 1000 watt or 1500 watt tank heater, they are not expensive for the benefit you will get from them. Kats brand is a decent value, maybe $40 or $50 if memory serves.

I like block heaters. When the temp gets down to about zero I add a magnetic heater to the oil pan. Run them a couple hours before starting engine.

Get one of these and you will have a warm engine to start. They work better than block heaters because they circulate the heat, also better than hose heaters because the thermostats don't stop flow. The instructions for plumbing come with. Get a big one and it will only take a couple hours to heat your engine, the small ones should be plugged in over night.

Unless you are dealing with extreme/arctic conditions, a simple "block heater" should do the job and give the most "bang for the buck" as those heaters provide heat right in the area it's needed most.

It would be interesting to hear the precise details of "it doesn't seem to fit right".

I ordered a 1500 watt tank heater from TSC for 49.99 and free shipping...Runnings at $125.

Because of the thickness of the block the expandable wing nut doesn't fit just right and the element can only go so far if you try to turn the element alittle then it pushes the block heater out. I do live in be and it does get pretty extreme -20 to -30 the other night. Not my first block heater to the nstall been a mechanic 40 yrs but this one has me stumped. Had a zero start and then got a Kat's the previous one was a Kat's the same part number as the one I put in 2 weeks ago but it popped out today while blowing snow. Thinking about putting a plug in and going with a online heater.

I like be in n Dakota sorry about the be

I live in north central ND, so I am no stranger to the low temps you mention.

I generally prefer block heaters if the particular engine can accept them, that being said, I have a diesel and a gas GREEN 4020, and have external "tank theaters" on them because there' no "core holes" in the water jacket in which to install "block heaters", and those heaters work well.

Quite a few years back, I owned a CASE 1370 and I installed a "Zerostart" block heater in it and it worked flawlessly.

NOT sure why you might be having issues, unless there's some defect/oddity in the area of the block where the heater goes.

(A friend bought the "1370" many years ago and used it hard and put it away wet, and now, with his failing health, I may get it back ago. Looking forward to that, but with the circumstances were different.)

I know! 15 degrees feels pretty rough this morning too

Biggest block heater you can get for your motor will be 1000 watt.

You can get a 1500 watt tank style heater.

Putting your bare hand on the block when it is minus 40 outside you can really feel the difference that extra 500 watt's makes.

When it gets stupid cold outside I have an old in car heater that I will run on the bottom of the oil pan for a few hours before starting.

Other problem I have had with almost every Case I own is when it gets below minus 20-30 upon start up the steering control in the cab will leak oil, sometimes lots of it.

Position a hair dryer down by the pedals to blow warm air on it for 20 minutes before start up and it will not leak.

we had a few of those do that at the dealership and new updated seat installed stops it,, takes a few min to install once you pull the hand pump out,, have never seen one leak again,, I have a 1070 that would drip when I got it,, dropped the trans oil and filters replace with Hy-Tran and zero leaks now in 25 years,, this does not stop them all if the seal is damaged/rolled lip on seal on install

(quoted from post at 07:18:07 01/21/20) we had a few of those do that at the dealership and new updated seat installed stops it,, takes a few min to install once you pull the hand pump out,, have never seen one leak again,, I have a 1070 that would drip when I got it,, dropped the trans oil and filters replace with Hy-Tran and zero leaks now in 25 years,, this does not stop them all if the seal is damaged/rolled lip on seal on install

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Reading your mention of rolled lip on seal on install has me thinking you are referring to the shaft seal at top of pump.

My 1270 has been pushing oil out at the lower seam of the pump housing.

Floor was dry all summer.
When it got real cold this winter I went out and started the tractor and left it to warm up for 15 minutes.
Opened the door to get in and I had so much oil on the floor that it was running down the steps.

Mopped up the mess, snugged up the bolts on the bottom of the pump, dumped another 5 gal of oil into it, started it up and it was fine.
Managed another half dozen feedings without any leaks until the temp dropped to minus 30 at which time a steady drip showed up, again from the seam line.
Shut it down, tried snugging the bolts again which made no difference.
Put heat on it for 20 minutes, no leaks.

I know I will need to do a proper fix once it warms up, with where it is leaking from I am not sure if a seal will solve the problem versus is the pump getting old and sloppy.

If I had a warm place to park it I am pretty sure I would be oblivious to the problem even existing.

970 and 1070 have both leaked/dripped oil from the pump on rare occasions (like once or twice a year) but never with the volume that the 1270 did.

the bottom seal can be replaced also,, seen a few of those leaking n the last 20 years but not many,, changed a lot more of those collar seals in IH steering pumps but they can leak,, I never pulled the unit to change those on the IH units maybe you can do the same on the 1370,, not sure if I ever did but I do not see why it could not be done
steering pump link

(quoted from post at 08:35:51 01/24/20) the bottom seal can be replaced also,, seen a few of those leaking n the last 20 years but not many,, changed a lot more of those collar seals in IH steering pumps but they can leak,, I never pulled the unit to change those on the IH units maybe you can do the same on the 1370,, not sure if I ever did but I do not see why it could not be done
steering pump link

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Stuck my head under the dash for a look this morning and it looks like there is plenty of room to change it without pulling the whole works out.

Will have to order a seal.

Of course with the warmer weather it has not leaked even a drip this week, not that I am complaining.