jd 50 pulling tractor

I have a fully rebuilt jd 50 and the only thing that has been done to is I shaved the head. What are some things that would help with tractor pulling with breaking the bank?
 
If you want try pulling just for the fun of
it, then dont do anything other then maybe
an adjustable hitch, wheely bars & weight
brackts. If you decide to get more serious
about it, look for an B,A or a G,
preferably set up to pull allready. 50s are
nice old tractors but not the best to pull
with.
 

Even though you posted that you want to break the bank I'll bet that you mean the opposite. My advice since you're just starting is to get a different brand of tractor. You have to spend a lot more on those 2 cylinder Deeres to make the competitive. Every body has to have a Deere, but you can take a decent running Oliver or Minnie Mo or Farmall or Allis or Ford and be much more competitive for much less money. The JDs are great on the stone boat where they have the weight, but not on the transfer sled where you need power.
 
I've seen several late model single stick A's, STOCK (I have a '52), weighted to 12k lbs. &
never run out of power. Now the G is a totally different story.....money pit. Oliver's are a
good cheap puller with their transmissions, they pull good stock. Now the 50 is a nice
tractor, but far from the ideal puller. I would suggest, get it as light as you can and just
have fun.
 
Have the cam reground and properly degreed. Will wake it up. Also you can have the head and manifold ported. Getting the proper spark to keep it timed helps also. Most distributors are worn so bad
they either don't advance right or they go through the ceiling. Shaving the head if not done to the proper amount can cause issues for you as far as pinging. A cheap way to increase the compression
ratio is to add pucks to the pistons. Higher compression means you need higher octane gas also. We run 120 octane in our pulling JD's
 
(quoted from post at 18:44:55 01/11/20)
The three most important items to work on to pull the distance . Is traction, traction and traction.


Inertia reduces the need for traction dramatically. At some pulls they even have minimum weights for classes to keep guys from entering a light tractor and getting it moving fast in a short distance. I entered a tractor in five classes once and won three of them. One of those was the heaviest and I was 2,000 lbs. light. Sure, speed limits make that hard to do, but even with speed limits, the guy with power can throttle back to keep from spinning out before the downward draft from the sled gets really strong, and then feed gas to it and keep going while the lower powered tractor dies.
 
(quoted from post at 08:30:18 01/12/20)
(quoted from post at 18:44:55 01/11/20)
The three most important items to work on to pull the distance . Is traction, traction and traction.


Inertia reduces the need for traction dramatically. At some pulls they even have minimum weights for classes to keep guys from entering a light tractor and getting it moving fast in a short distance. I entered a tractor in five classes once and won three of them. One of those was the heaviest and I was 2,000 lbs. light. Sure, speed limits make that hard to do, but even with speed limits, the guy with power can throttle back to keep from spinning out before the downward draft from the sled gets really strong, and then feed gas to it and keep going while the lower powered tractor dies.
A nearly stock 50 ain t going to build inertia in 1st or 2nd gear.
Better count on hitching at max legal height, max legal weight .traction X3 and have the front wheels slightly bobbing off the track
 

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