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O/T: Update - odd well/water pressure issue

M

MeAnthony

Member
I lowered air pressure in the tank; this decreased (but did not resolve) the significant pressure loss just before the pump kicked on. I replaced the switch and nipple, no improvement. It actually got worse to the point that the pump was short cycling, running about 5 seconds every 20 seconds. I put in a new pressure tank earlier this evening and the problem is basically resolved. There's still a small pressure drop (only a pound or two, not ten - 12 pounds like it was previously) just before the pump kicks on; I'll have to check it out again tomorrow and maybe raise the cut-in pressure a tad.

One thing I don't quite understand about the old tank.... I thought a failed bladder would give you water out the air fitting on top? I got a couple tiny droplets one time but that was all. Until the pump started short cycling so bad, I was sure the tank was good. This was a Goulds V80 tank, if that makes any difference in terms of design. Definitely very good longevity.

Many thanks to all who replied.
 
when my tanks bladder ruptured, water sprayed forcefully out the air valve every time I depressed the plunger in the valve. Take the old tank apart & look. 6 bolts underneath. Rust could've plugged the valve on the inside. Replacing the tank was a smart move.
 
My defective bladder tank had water trapped above the bladder. 2 guy's that upgraded my well had a real battle getting tank out of my basement.
I had to remove air fitting, put tank on it's side to get trapped water out.

If my memory is good, well guy set air pressure in tank at 28 psi and my turn on pressure was 30 psi, 2 psi difference.
geo
 
As for the behavior of your old tank, it sounds like the bladder had a small leak in it such that there was still some air in the top of the tank. So when water was drawn, it would supply a bit of water but then the pressure would sharply drop off because the water couldn't pass through the hole in the bladder as fast as it was being drawn from the tank.

It's too bad you had to replace a working pressure switch, but given the price of a tank I too would have changed out the switch first.
 
Shut the electricity off and run the faucets until they quit. Check the air pressure in the bladder...should be around 32#. Inflate to 32# and turn the pump back on....should be good to go if the bladder is good.
 
The pre-load air pressure is supposed to be 2 psi less than the cut in pressure, like Geo said. Most tanks come with 38 for a 40-60 psi system.
 
Having a few pounds of pressure drop before the pump comes on is normal.

There has to be some pressure differential to prevent rapid cycling.

If you are going to adjust the pressure switch, count the turns and record what you do so it can be put back where it was in case you don't like the results.
 
Reading these reminds me what a pain in the rear it was to live on a well system, especially since we had a real iron problem. We had to filter it through a sand and charcoal tank, into a 1000 gal. cistern, then pump it into the house, so we fought two pumps.
 

We have been at our current place for 30 1/2 years. After three years We had a new well drilled. I haven t done any pump fighting yet. I replaced the control and pressure gauge last year just for preventive maintenance.
 
Hello MeAnthony,

Glade you got it working. You need to match air pressure with cut in oressure now. Cut in pressure needs to be 2# higher then ajr thank pressure. The large spring on the switch is the range pressure, with a 20# differential. So if it goes on @40# will shut off at 60#. If you put more pressure on the spring let's say it starts @45# it will go off @65#. Less pressure will do the same lowering both on and of pressure. The small spring is to adjust high pressure only.key picture sneeked in?

Guido.

cvphoto1438.jpg


cvphoto1439.jpg


cvphoto1442.jpg
 
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