Still waiting on pole barn door.

Geo-TH,In · Jan 4, 2020

It's been crazy, holidays, weather, and building inspector.
Building inspector 10 years ago required I use two 2x12 for header on gable end.
Builder used 2x10.

I finally got inspector out to ask he another question. He now says 2x10 is ok. 2x12 for overhead door on side. I reminded him he old me I would need a laminaged beam for side door. Inspector tripped over his tounge, "Oh I mean gable end if door is 16 ft wide." Inspector said, I'll call the builder and get things going.

I sometimes just want to scream. County inspectors can make their own rules. There's no weight on gable end. Trusses put weight on outside posts.
Pole barn materials came form another county, Davis county.

BTW,I know the head of building inspector, he's 78 and still working. The guy who came out to give the ok is 83.
I asked why don't you retire? Can't afford to retire.

I waiting on the door to be installed before I pour floor. Every 1/4 of concrete costs about $135.

How thick is your floor? I'm planning on a 5 1/2 inch floor 4000#. I Don't want it to crack. Using 5x10 ft precut wire and 8 mill plastic. 6000# will be my heaviest load in barn.
geo

RobCons · Jan 4, 2020

Inspectors are the same way here. Most are contractors who failed in business. They like to ignore the approved plans posted on the wall or manufacturer requirements and use their ideas. When their ideas make no sense I usually make them mad by going over their head.

TomIn · Jan 4, 2020

I had my 36' x 48' built in Sullivan County about a decade ago. Daviess County Metal did the whole project. My contract specified 4" concrete with wire and fiberglass fibers. I'm just guessing that the 4" floor was really 3 1/2" with somewhat thicker edges. I haven't had one crack yet.

I think that the key to avoid cracking is the base the floor is poured on. I built my on a wet area, so built it up with all crushed stone.

I have no idea of how much fiberglass fibers helps the strength of the concrete. I don't remember the cost, but it was so low that it seemed crazy to not give it a try.

544hydro · Jan 4, 2020

No code or inspections on outbuildings where I live, only residential.

Geo-TH,In · Jan 4, 2020

DC metals is where I got mine from.
I looked at some fiberglass floors. It looked like it has fractor cracks at the surface. Builder wanted no wire, just glass.

I know a man who has been nothing but a concrete finisher all his life. He's done other projects for me. No glass, just wire, 4000#. I've yet to have any cracks. He can do my job on a weekend. Won't take him very long to get it done. No forms, just the outside walls.

By the time I'm done bringing floor up the the grade I want, I'll have about 5-6 inches of white rock down and compacted. I did all the landscaping too. After a rain, all water runs away from building, not towards it.

My last pole barn, I bought a rotating laser. It pays for itself very fast at $135/quarter inch.
geo,

Geo-TH,In · Jan 4, 2020

The head inspector got his job because he lost an
election. Guess you could say he got his job was pay
back for something, quid pro quo. The good old boy system is alive and well in my county.
Some say that officials and judges need new desks often. The bottom side of desk wears out sliding money under it.

MarkB_MI · Jan 4, 2020

The main reason for the inside header on an overhead door is so you have something to attach the door to. Since a standard overhead door needs 12 inches of headroom, you should use a 2x12 so the top door rail brackets have something to attach to. Otherwise you might have to add a piece of 2x6 above the header. As for the outer header, you're right: it doesn't support any weight other than itself and a bit of the siding. It just needs to be wide enough that it doesn't sag during construction. As I recall, my inner header is 2x12 and the outer is 2x10. And my door is 16 feet wide, yours is narrower as I recall.

MarkB_MI · Jan 4, 2020

Regarding floor thickness, I went for 6 inches for most of the floor but only 4 inches around the perimeter. I figured the perimeter would never have any significant weight on it. I used steel mesh and after fifteen years there are no cracks. I sawed control joints about 10' apart.

One tip regarding steel mesh: Figure out in advance where you will saw your control joints and mark those points on the walls. Then take bolt cutters and cut every other wire in your mesh along those lines. This will encourage the concrete to crack at your control joint cuts.

gene bender · Jan 4, 2020

My friend had a problem because they moved a window from the plans.

Russ from MN · Jan 4, 2020

I really didn't put any header above the door on the gable end of our pole garage, used a regular truss, it provides the strength, been fine for 20 years!

teddy52food · Jan 4, 2020

My 40 x 60 shop floor is 3 1/2 inches thick, poured in 1975. No problems with cracking . Just has wire mesh. But it sits on pure gravel that I don't know how deep. I did the maintenance on the township road grader, snow plow for many years. That was the heaviest on it. Go a little stronger on the mix & you don't need it as thick & make sure you have a well packed gravel base.

Traditional Farmer · Jan 4, 2020

If the concrete is poured correctly it won't crack,if its poured incorrectly doesn't matter what the strength is it'll end up cracked or worse.When I was at the concrete plant about 95% of the concrete poured on a job with no concrete inspector was put down out of spec.Number 1 reason too much water in the mix.

Adirondack case guy · Jan 4, 2020

The durability of the floor comes down to how well the immediate sight is drained, and what materials were used for the subbase and how well they were compacted.-----------------Loren

centash · Jan 4, 2020

Get a copy of the building code for your area, and look up the section that pertains to your type of building. You should be able to get it online. With that, you will know what is up to code and what is not acceptable....and you could show the inspector.

Ben

Scott 730 · Jan 4, 2020

In a properly engineered post frame building, wind load is a factor in specifying door headers. Roof load is not the only load imposed on a gable end header.

Bill(Wis) · Jan 4, 2020

I went with 5" concrete on top of a well packed wet sand base. Did not need a moisture barrier. Important to score it to prevent cracks from showing. Cracks will start from the posts. So, best to score across from each side post and end to end from end posts. Re-rod? Heavy loads coming in? Concrete trucks are about 12'8" to 13' tall. Can they drive in through your door? Are you planning to pour in freezing weather? Concrete should be kept wet during a curing period. Sealing it afterward?

jm. · Jan 4, 2020

I think you will be fine on your floor the way you have it planned.

DoubleO7 · Jan 4, 2020

(quoted from post at 13:41:56 01/04/20) Get a copy of the building code for your area, and look up the section that pertains to your type of building. You should be able to get it online. With that, you will know what is up to code and what is not acceptable....and you could show the inspector.

Ben

You could do that, but....
Most areas that have building inspectors require engineer stamped prints submitted with the building permit request.
So once the county is satisfied with the plans, that should be that without any needed input from a building inspector.
Unless something was overlooked by the permit approvers and needs to be field rectified.
Waving the code book at an inspector that wants it done his way is tempting but most times it is better to agree with him and move forward.

Geo-TH,In · Jan 4, 2020

Who sold you the barn?

Who built it?

3000OH · Jan 4, 2020

And have read to score it either when it?s wet or saw cut it within 24-36 hrs while still green.

Bill(Wis) · Jan 5, 2020

Yes. They saw cut mine the next day.

Still waiting on pole barn door.

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