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are my glow plugs bad?

F

Farmer Rock

Member
hey guys,my 87 international s1600 with what I believe is a 7.3 idi,previous owner was not sure,but when I go to start it,the glow plug light on dash comes on for about 2 seconds,and I hear the relay clicking,so I wait 30 seconds for that to go off and nothing happens.the only way to start is to use ether,and I do not like using ether unless an emergency.i am looking at buying the glow plugs,but I just want to see if there is any other possibilities,i will appreciate any information,thanks,Rock
 
If the light goes out and you still hear clicking, it might be the relay. Might not hurt to investigate a little bit, maybe have someone help you bypass the relay. Don't keep power on them for more than a few seconds at a time to keep from burning them up. You could also put a voltmeter on the glow plug side of the relay, see what it shows.
 
Two primary circuits for glow plugs. One style is like old fashion Christmas tree lights that are wired in series with the eventual last plug grounded. The other uses plugs wired in parallel (one bulb goes out, no problem all the remaining stay lit. With no manual, the series plugs are wired with 2 screws/terminals on each. remove the wires (at least one) and measure the Ohms (an open infinity plug is bad) they should all be very close to the same small ohm reading. If parallel, remove the wire and measure from ground to the screw, open is bad, and all ohm readings should be very similar, but higher ohms than the series type. This is kinda generic, but I hope helpful. Jim
 
Hey guys,thanks for the info,how would I go about testing/bypassing relay if thats it?,I will also test the glow plugs to be sure.thanks,Rock
 
If it's a 1986, it probably has a 6.9 in it. The 7.3 uses a starter relay as a glow plug relay. It can still click but not allow enough amperage to pass through due to burned contacts inside. The glow plugs can be tested with a ohm meter.
 
I got tired of replacing all the glow plugs after the relay failed, and burnt them all up. I wired around the relay with a button in the dash that I control. works great, and I haven't replaced a glow plug in a long time. good luck.
 
First thing to do is to check all the glowplugs.

When one or more GP's fails current draw is reduced accordingly and the controller gets confused and thinks the GP's have heated up.

If GP's are all OK the controller may well have failed or the solenoid, they have been problematic.

I am not at all in favor of a manual pushbutton for GP's UNLESS they are the self-regulating type and will not overheat and pop open if someone holds the button too long as WILL happen sooner or later. And the originals in your truck are not self-regulating or rated for a constant 12 Volts. When that happens, they may break off while the engine is running and get pounded into the top of a piston, or break off when you try to remove them, necessitating removal of the head to retrieve the piece.

I have updated quite a number of Fords, GM's, an IH 424 tractor and even a Cadillac to a newer-style all-in-one controller and alternate GP's, which MAY be cheaper than replacing the nearly obsolete OEM controller form that era.
 
Hey guys,this got me thinking,there is a push button switch to the left of the clutch pedal,could this have something to do with it,thanks,Rock
 
Lots of good advice already given. You can start with a test light- check for power both sides of the relay and at the glow plugs. Glow plugs can be tested for resistance with an ohmmeter. The relay is a common culprit. Another way to check it out fast is with a heavy jumper wire to bypass the relay. If you have an infrared thermometer ?point and shoot ? style ? that could be handy to check plugs. Do not keep power on the glow plugs for a long consecutive time or you will fry them.
 
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