Massey Ferguson TO30 wheel seal replacement

Bowana85

Member
I am replacing the rear wheel seals. I am have trouble with the Brake Screw removal. Tried to buy an impact screwdriver from Harbor Freight and they had only one model. It was small and the slotted screw bit was not wide at all.

I attempted to remove the two screws with a makeshift piece of steel and had no success.

Where can I go to find the right tool? I found one on ebay but it takes forever to get it.

Also, I plan on not replaceing the bearings and only repairing the side that is leaking, It went from a slow leak to a really fast leak. How hard are the bearings to replace and what are the chances they are not worn too badly?
 
Sometimes a drift punch and penetrating oil will get the screws out. Don't worry about ruining the head, just try to shock it loose with the punch, using it to try to unscrew it.

If they won't come loose, just drill the head off. They are not necessary, only there to hold the drum on at the factory or during transport with the wheels off. The screws are soft and drill easily.

The bearings are pressed on the axle, not removable without destroying them. They can be torched off, cut the outer race, heat the inner race to red hot in one spot, hit it with a hammer (do not cut through to the axle!). That will expand the race and it will slide off. The new bearing can be pressed on or driven on with a piece of pipe that pushes only on the inner race.

Any time the bearings are replaced, or the axles are removed, the bearing preload needs to be checked and adjusted with the retainer plate shims.

You will probably want to replace the brake shoes if they are oil soaked. You can try cleaning then up with brake cleaner and sand paper, but that usually doesn't work. More oil will just squeeze out.

How is the gear case oil level? Those are prone to get water in them, which raises the oil level causing less than perfect seals to leak.
 
You might try hitting the screw head with a big punch a few times. That may break the bond, and use some penetrating oil. if you have a torch heat the head, and let it cool. If you use Amazon they have a couple sets listed. They have fast shipping. A couple desperate moves. Drill the head off, and twist out what's left. I have had good success using a punch to knock the head around. Not in the slot. Since it has oil, I doubt the bearings are bad. Stan
 
Take a good sized cold chisel and stick in the slot
and give some good hard whacks could even put a
crescent wrench on the chisel and smack and twist
they?ll come loose
 
(quoted from post at 21:19:15 12/30/19) You might try hitting the screw head with a big punch a few times. That may break the bond, and use some penetrating oil. if you have a torch heat the head, and let it cool. If you use Amazon they have a couple sets listed. They have fast shipping. A couple desperate moves. Drill the head off, and twist out what's left. I have had good success using a punch to knock the head around. Not in the slot. Since it has oil, I doubt the bearings are bad. Stan

Thanks for the reply. It is good to know the screw aren't crucial. I will get agressive with it and hopfully have some success.

I was using a box blade and didnt notice the seal was starting to leak fast. That wheel started to make a shrill sound from being dry and I immediately shut it down. I drove it on to my trailer yesterday and I could not tell anything was wrong at all.

Thanks for the help.
 

I will do that. My attention was on not destroying the screw heads and I was 30 miles from home working outside. Its almost 70 degrees here in Texas so I wasnt suffering too bad. LOL

I made a large screw driver blade from a piece of steel and it was messing up the slot in the screw so I came home. Information is a good tool. I am going to get it done now.

It was way good to have two people affirming what to do.

Thanks for the reply, I will let you know how it goes but I wont be back out there until after the New Year.
 

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