Best practice for removing rear tires/wheels on Case 1170?

fastline · Dec 29, 2019

I think I am getting close to tackling some different tires here soon and was just pondering how I might do this. the axle tubes are up high enough that sitting the whole rear of the tractor makes me pause a bit. Maybe I am overly safe but it seems tricky. I also have cast iron wheel weights that will need dealt with.

Shall I screw together an assembly with railroad ties? Maybe just best to work one side at a time? I am not yet sure if I will take these to a shop or just do them in the field.

caterpillar guy · Dec 29, 2019

One side at a time and do them on the tractor is easier. The rim will hold still. No need to mess with weights or anything else. Or drive/haul tractor to tire guy to do. The rear tires are not that bad just bulky and heavy. I start out with them off the ground about and then let them down to help with getting the bead over the rim. Raising will help with pulling the bottom off and then can hold out with a couple bars as it is let down some to hold the tire outward for removal.

showcrop · Dec 29, 2019

Cribbing is the best way to hold it up, but there is no need to screw the blocks together. They should be crossed as they are stacked up. As CN said do one side at a time. If they are loaded you will need to pump or drain the CaCL out first. Post back for info on that if they are loaded. The pros usually change tires with them still on the tractor. You might check in your area for an independent tire guy with a service truck. They come to you. I got two 20.8x38s swapped last spring for just over $200.00 including tubes.

Dave BN · Dec 29, 2019

Are these tudless tires? I'm always afraid of pinching the tube. Do you
guys inflate the tube a little after the first side is on? Where are you
getting the the tires from? And yes, do it with them on the tractor.
Dave

caterpillar guy · Dec 29, 2019

Dave I usually put the tube in the tire with some air. I then with the rim high I shove the tire in under the rim so it is under the entire rim. Then let the tractor down till the rim sets inside the beads on both sides and the top is now a bit loose. then pry them the last bead on raise some and finish inflating. After the tire is inflated,if adding liquid let set on a block about the right height for when the tire will be in sue. Then add your liquid to the tire. There are several of these. We use calcium chloride. If fixed when leaks are first found rust is negligible. We have the original rims on our H new in 1953. I have not had to replace a rim or wheel yet on 10 tractors and over 40 years. Some of the tractors came here with the chloride in them some have been added since we got then.

Dave BN · Dec 29, 2019

Thanks cat guy

ss55 · Dec 29, 2019

Get a quote for installation from your tire dealer, both for doing the work in your shed and at their tire shop.

Ohio88 · Dec 29, 2019

I just replaced both rims on aOliver Super 77. Did one side at a time. It kept the tractor stable. Jacked the tractor up to take the weight off the tire. Empty the liquid
with a pump. Used a bead breaker to break beads. Let the tractor down and started prying off outside. Repeat for inside. Removed the outside weight. Removed the
rim. Removed the inside weight. Reversed the procedure. Toke a couple hours a side. Used a shop lift for the heavy stuff.

jacksun65 · Dec 29, 2019

I just use the sky hook wrap a chain around the cab lift and do both tires at the same time LOL

Best practice for removing rear tires/wheels on Case 1170?

fastline

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caterpillar guy

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showcrop

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Dave BN

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caterpillar guy

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Dave BN

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ss55

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Ohio88

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jacksun65

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