Wheel weight?

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
Are wheel weights universal? Can the same wheel
weight bolt up on different tractors?

If I'm looking for used weights for my L3560, what
brands would work?
geo.
 
Most weights don't all have the same bolt pattern. Most Massey Harris weights are stepped design and stack well have four slotted holes. IH used four holes on H and M type weight, I have some Oliver/Cockshutt rear weights with six bolt holes. Ford 6000 has three bolt holes like some JD rear weights.
 
from what i've seen, your kubota will need kubota weights. i'm in the process of drilling a set of farmall "B" weights to fit my L3400. they are the right diameter to set inside my wheels. which, by the way are 24"..
 
George, Found on the Walmart site. If that is the correct price you would have a deal. eBay has them for over $100. It does have $33 delivery listed on the Walmart site.
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George the local tractor pulling guys hang weights all over. Notice the rear wheel bracket so they can add weight for heavier class. What size rear tire do you have? Used weight ago for about a dollar a pound around here. Some pullers use a round tube for weight holder in wheel center.
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Bolt holes on my Super C and JD are the same as I have cast JD wheels on my C for weights.Had to change them side to side so the valve stems are on the inside.
 
No. Most are unique to a model or series of tractors.

Regarding your L3560, Kubota sells weights to fit (believe but am not certain that these are identical to those that I have on my L6060). They are expensive but you will have no issues installing them if you also buy the recommended attachment bolt packages.

North States (others?) also make wheel weights for Kubota and others. North States sells weights to fit your 3560 and they are considerably less expensive than those sold by Kubota. North States does not sell retail so you will need to have your dealer (or some other dealer) order them. North States also sells attachment bolts.

Shipping of cast iron weights is expensive but there are ways that one can usually avoid the shipping charges. If you decide to buy weights from either Kubota or another dealer who orders from North States, post back and I'll tell you ways that you can probably avoid shipping charges.

Dean
 
These weights will not bolt to the wheels on your L3560 but you may well be able to fabricate something to allow attachment.

Dean
 
If I remember right I already stated you would need Plenty or rear wheel weights to make your unit usable and Safe I always laugh when someone has no problem spending the coin to buy a certain machine but then has a fit about a few more bucks to make it operate and work as it should,, I have over 600.00 in weights on my uncle Kubota so the tail end stays on the ground,, CHEAP compared to tipping it over or even worse hurting someone or your self from being to tight to buy them in the first place,, I sold equipment for many decades I always made sure the machine was equipped properly when I set it up,, yes sometimes a person like you would not want the weights I had added,, in those times I made the buyer sign off on the invoice he refused to buy the badly needed weights,, the pic is not the best to show the weights but I have 6 weights on each wheel, if lifting any where near clsoe to max lift capacity I also mount the 7' rear blade on the rear which weighs over 600 lbs
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A member here posted a pic of the 3 point weight that he made for a neighbor out of a barrel and concrete. He also posted this about why a three point weight is better than wheel weights:


I don't think many on YT understand the Physics behind rear ballast. Most think the solution is adding wheel weights or fluid in tires.

Wheel weights and fluid in tires will actually put a greater stress on front end, spindles, front tires.



Rear ballast transfers weight from front wheels to rear wheels.

As long as I don't exceed 3 pt ratings I can't see causing any damage.
 
Putting any weight on the 3 point will make your hitch usless and also make it that you cannot get around good in close quartes as that distance sticking out back will keep you from getting the back end of tractor close to the barn wall. The only time I would have anything on back end was with a loader on front and then it was a back blade not for weight but for after using loader to clear snow to clean out the snow the loader left. I would never hang a filled drum on a 3 point hitch as I wanted to be able to use that hitch and you could not with the drum on it. To me the hitch in proper place is more important than any weight you could hang on drawbar.
 
And that type of weight mounting is not allowed at the pull I have worked at for over 20 years. They must be bolted with factory style bolts.
 
Very few interchange out of the brand, and only a few transfer within models. Purchasing them for model specific use is best. Clunkey almost fit is going to tear up paint and look rather trashy.
Weights and tire ballast supply needed traction without loading the chassis or wheel/axle bearings I believe that there is no affect on front axle or tires/steering with wheel weights. Weight placed on a three point hitch does load axle bearings and reduces total load on the front by cantilever action. 500 pounds 3 feet behind the axle is "heavier" to traction and weight transfer than that same weight mounted on, or in the rear tires. 3pt hitch weight also is way easier to remove than all the rest. Jim
 
I've seen more then one wheel weight made from concrete. One makes a form and has pipe placed such that the bolt to hold them can go threw the pipe to bolt them up
 
(quoted from post at 10:27:31 12/28/19) And that type of weight mounting is not allowed at the pull I have worked at for over 20 years. They must be bolted with factory style bolts.


Leroy, Twenty years ago there were two of the 15 pulls that I hook at that required factory mounting of weights. For the last 18 years none of them have required factory mounting.
 
Showcrop ,

cvphoto575.jpg

Rear ballast for terramites
300#

Rear ballast for neighbor about 1200# and
it's back behind rear wheels. Generates a
lot more torque to transfer weight off
front wheels.

cvphoto576.jpg

I'm making a 40gallon rear ballast. Will
fill it with extra concrete when we pour
pole barn floor next Saturday.

I can't use rear ballast and use PTO to
power mower


Some say wheel weights make ride
smoother. Not a fan of tire ballast
which about half the people I've talked
to say fluid makes the ride ruffer.
George
 
I got lucky, when I decided I needed weights a fellow I worked with who dealt in farm equipment said come over. He had some old cast weights that weigh 185 pounds apiece, and the bolt holes lined up with our new JD! I made a lifting bracket so I could put them on alone, using a come-a-long.
 
Cast is easy to drill with good bits. Drill a pilot hole with a 1/4" bit first. You can drill them on your drill press. But we have always just got factory weights included in price.
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(quoted from post at 10:06:39 12/28/19)
A member here posted a pic of the 3 point weight that he made for a neighbor out of a barrel and concrete. He also posted this about why a three point weight is better than wheel weights:


I don't think many on YT understand the Physics behind rear ballast. Most think the solution is adding wheel weights or fluid in tires.

Wheel weights and fluid in tires will actually put a greater stress on front end, spindles, front tires.



Rear ballast transfers weight from front wheels to rear wheels.

As long as I don't exceed 3 pt ratings I can't see causing any damage.

And some argue the opposite. rear wheel weights are putting weight on the rear wheels only and not on the bearings of the tractor. Rear wheel weights do not swing back and forth and destroy the 3 pt lift and hydraulic safety valves due to the shock when traveling the tractor. Rear wheel weights do not raise up and cause the tractor to tip when on a critical incline that 3 point weights can do. Rear wheel weights DONT add pressure the to front, but dont remove pressure to the front. Rear wheel weights allow the 3 point to be used for something useful as its not tied up with a barrel swinging around. Nothing wrong with 3 pt ballast, but rear wheel weights help all the time, when plowing and doing all work and dont load the bearings down as its ""unsprung"" weight. And when moving round bales, a bale on the rear means you move two bales at a time, just be sure to load the rear first, and unload the rear last. Rear wheel weights are always ready and you dont have to go hook them up or take them off. So, rear wheel weights should be the first weights added for the tractors designed work life. Just another opinion from the peanut gallery.
 
I would say they have a tire problem then. Since first fluid in 1946 never found that. And just replaced those wheels about 4 years ago due to rust and I know the stems were lightly leaking all the time, Just impossible to get to them to work on them without dismantling tractor. And drawbar work was more important to us than that extra weight haging out in back and taking up space needed otherwise.
 

Fill the drum with concrete make it to attach to the 3 point not like you did on your friends use it when doing loader work life will be good...
 
I agree with you on wheel weights,out of the way,weight is down low,tractor only has to roll them not carry them much easier on the overall drive train.Trouble with a rear 3pt weight its a pain to have to go hook up every time.On one of my loader tractors I keep a bale spear on it anyway, when I need more weight just go get a bale of hay.
 

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