Update on trailer ramps

rick n ohio · Dec 27, 2019

I guess I should took all your suggestions on the ramp build I can now see the problem do you think if I shorten the legs a couple inches I'll get by.or just cut them all back off and start over pointing the legs forward this time. Thanks Rick

Janicholson · Dec 27, 2019

Add a small foot pointing forward and a gusset to prevent it from bending. No biggie. Jim

da.bees · Dec 27, 2019

I don't think cutting off couple of inches will prevent ramps kicking up when driving on and off plus they will likely have weight on them when trailer is loaded. As long as rear truck wheels aren't lifted off ground,why do you need to prevent rear of trailer from dipping?

rustred · Dec 27, 2019

cut of 2" and put some feet on them about 4"x6" and move that brace to the middle of ramp. ramp should be just off the ground when trailer is level. make feet pads with a curl on the front of them. once loaded you must pull ahead to raise the ramps. I do that all the time once loaded.

Geo-TH,In · Dec 27, 2019

I agree, knees need be angled forward or ramps will kick up.

Don't paint it. You will have to learn what we are talking about.

Cliff Nelson · Dec 27, 2019

To word it differently, The leg needs to touch the ground slightly ahead of the pivot shaft to solidly support the weight without tipping the ramps while driving onto the rear of the trailer. They will still need to be shortened so you can lift them with the trailer loaded. My ramps are supported straight down from the rear of the hinge shaft and will tip when loading anything very heavy.

paul · Dec 27, 2019

I wouldn?t have thought of it either, but looking at it can clearly see the issue. Well, the 2 issues.

1. When the weight of the load goes over the hinge as it is now, the trailer will push down and the tamp will be forced up on the free end.

2. When a load goes onto the trailer the trailer will sink, and once you have the ramp supports angled back where they should be, the trailer will be sitting heavy on the ramp stands. The ramp stands need to be shorter, and hang in the air 90% of the time, only offer support when the heaviest part of the load is coming over the hinge. Once that passes the ramp supports should be in the air again by a little bit.

I think cutting off and starting over with shortened, positioned under the trailer a bit stands will be the easiest.

Paul

jon f mn · Dec 27, 2019

I always made them so the legs are 3" off the ground. Even then they can be trouble if the ground slopes up or trailer tilts down. 3" of drop at the rear of the trailer is not too much. When I did them I put them straight down, or 90? to the ramps and right at the end so the bottom is just forward of the pivot when down. I've seen some slanted forward slightly too. It's a narrow window to make them work well, too far forward and they grab when folding the ramps. To far back and the ramps tip up.

showcrop · Dec 28, 2019

Rick, your problem is still that you do not have a real beavertail. Look at more pictures. Look at Kansas 4010's trailer. Your pictures make it appear that you know how to weld.

KL in Wi · Dec 28, 2019

How about adding a "link" between the trailer and the ramps. That way the trailer can move up or down and it won't affect the ramps. That will give you a double pivot point.

rick n ohio · Dec 28, 2019

I know the dove tail is to short I bought it this way it is a home made trailer with six lug rims so I would assume it is a 10000 lb gvw trailer at the most.im only hauling a kubota 4310 that weighs 3250 lbs I only use it a couple times a year I'm just trying to use it as is the best I can before I would go to all the work to extend the dovetail I would probably just get a better made trailer around a 15000 gvw

ztrmowers · Dec 28, 2019

I would cut them off, and put implement jack on each side of the dovetail part. crank down when need swivel up when done. ramps lighter to lift that way also. your dovetail looks just like one I used to run,it was 20ft trailer with 2ft dove 22ft total length real like it,fellow came in one day wanted know if I sell it he offered way more than I gave new for it so I sold it to him cash on spot. I now have tilt setup

Keith True · Dec 28, 2019

I cut those legs right off of mine.Trailer was built in 1972,and he did a good job on the ramps and legs.I acquired it in 1986,and only about 3 years ago I chopped the legs off.I should have done it the day I bought it.I just kick a block under each corner of the trailer,and the blocks just ride in the ramps when I flip them up onto the beaver tail.I don't know how many times I've backed a tractor on,and when the weight went from the stiff ramp to the sprung trailer,the ramps would flip up.If I caught it in time I would be OK,but if I didn't the ramps would ride right up over the tops of the front tires.Two simple blocks of wood ended my 30+years of fighting those ramps.

K Effective · Dec 28, 2019

I have a flat car-hauler type trailer- no beaver tail, and ramps that are not hinged to the bed. I use wood blocks under each corner, as others have suggested.

For the loads you plan, those ramps are way heavy enough, I would just remove the legs completely, and IF you find you need the blocks, a couple 6X6 or8X8 stubs are easy to find.

rick n ohio · Dec 28, 2019

Instead of cutting the legs and braces off I'm thinking of using implement Jack's on each rear corner.let them hold the trailer up while loading then take them off when loaded.might have to jack it up a bit to get the legs back down and in place

Janicholson · Dec 28, 2019

New idea. Scarf the pivot brackets off of the front of the ramps, and cut the side angle irons back to the top of the legs. Then reattch the pivot at that point. problem solved, and just a little shorter. Jim

Update on trailer ramps

rick n ohio

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Janicholson

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da.bees

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rustred

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Geo-TH,In

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Cliff Nelson

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paul

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jon f mn

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showcrop

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KL in Wi

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rick n ohio

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ztrmowers

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Keith True

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K Effective

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rick n ohio

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