Trailer ramps almost done

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rick n ohio

Member

• Dec 26, 2019

• #1

Trailer ramps are almost done little more welding then a paint job.

 

OP

OP

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rick n ohio

Member

• Dec 26, 2019

• #1

I'll have to try the pics a little later this evening the system doesn't want to post them

 

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lee little

Member

• Dec 26, 2019

• #1

I always like to see projects like that always something I can learn.

 

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rick n ohio

Member

• Dec 26, 2019

• #1

Pics

 

jon f mn

Well-known Member

• Dec 26, 2019

• #1

Before you paint them try them. I think you will have trouble with those. The legs need to go forward further or they will kick the ramps up when you drive on. Hate to have them all painted and then have to redo them.

 

jon f mn

Well-known Member

• Dec 26, 2019

• #1

Might want to shorten them some too or they will have pressure on them after loading and be hard to fold up.

 

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grizz02

Well-known Member

• Dec 26, 2019

• #1

they look good but like john f said you need to shorten the stiff legs 2in or so, easy fix

 

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caterpillar guy

Well-known Member

• Dec 27, 2019

• #1

I made a set similar to that for my stepdeck trailer. They are heavy. Mine are 9or 10 feet long, made out of 4 inch channel. Got so I just pulled them off and then drove ahead to put them on for loading. Then just slid them under whatever was on there to put them away. I also made a couple of supports for them that bolted on. With that I could load some big tractors without bending them.

 

RobCons

Well-known Member

Location

Central Alabama

• Dec 27, 2019

• #1

Yep the legs need cut off some or when loaded the weight will still be on them. Probably have to pull the truck and trailer forward to raise them. Be careful going up and down. Mine are about that wide and I have to watch to make sure a wheel doesnt come off the edge.

 

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Traditional Farmer

Well-known Member

Location

Virginia

• Dec 27, 2019

• #1

With a new trailer the first thing I did was to cut the legs off the ramps,found it far better to put blocks under the rear of the trailer allowing a little room for the trailer to go down in the back when loading.Better yet is my present trailer with its hydraulic tilt bed and not have to worry with ramps.

 

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member

• Dec 27, 2019

• #1

Rick
You'll find your knees need to come in contact with the ground in front of the hinge. Yours are behind the hinge.

When you load something heavy the ramps will kick up push the trailer forward.

This lawn roller weights 4640 pounds. It got stuck when ramps came up, rear of trailer hit the ground and back wheels off truck came off the ground.

I had to move knees forward.
George

 

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jamstra

Member

• Dec 27, 2019

• #1

I agree about shortening the legs some - once your trailer is loaded up, you will not be able to put the ramps down to unload. Had that
trouble once even with a factory built trailer, could drive forward to be able to raise them, but had to find a hollow in the ground to be
able to drop the ramps once the trailer was loaded. Jim

 

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ztrmowers

Member

• Dec 27, 2019

• #1

like already been mention, you will not be able to fold once loaded. trailer I used to have like that I cut the ramp legs completely off and installed two implement jacks one to each rear side of the trailer, that really work nice. trailer I have now is gooseneck partial hyd tilt ,really like it no ramps period

 

Destroked 450

Well-known Member

Location

Harned, Ky

• Dec 27, 2019

• #1

Nice ramps but they look long and heavy, what plans do you have for lifting and supporting them, mine are only 5' and with spring assist thats all I want to lift with my bad back.
As others have said the support legs need to be shortened and angled forward, the ones on my trailer are 4" from the ground when on a flat surface, I've only had them kick up once but have had to move the trailer to get them folded up or down several times.

 

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Mike M

Well-known Member

• Dec 27, 2019

• #1

I am also concerned with no allowance for if the ground is not perfectly level and also for when the weight on the trailer lowers it. Our factory trailer had a toggle mechanism that allowed for some travel. I also found out blocking the rear of the trailer with a little clearance for it to drop down really helped to keep the ramps from kicking up and the back of the truck from raising up as you load.
Once the back of the truck comes up there goes your parking brakes and away it goes ! I just used block in the middle and smaller 2x4 on top of the stack so if it got stuck in there you could still easily pull off of it.

 

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rick n ohio

Member

• Dec 27, 2019

• #1

I think your all right about the feet being to long like you say .

 

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member

• Dec 27, 2019

• #1

Rick,
Here are my factory ramps. I made different knees and added a spring assist.

My modification prevents ramps from kicking up.

Expanded metal is necessary when ramps are wit or SNOW covered.

 

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rick n ohio

Member

• Dec 27, 2019

• #1

I'm going to put a spring assistant on mine when but first I have to cut the feet off and start over .I'm going to try them first but like the others have said I'm probably going to have trouble with them so I'll probably redo them the way others have mentioned.thanks Rick

 

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Frank 41

Member

• Dec 27, 2019

• #1

I bought a 20' Eby aluminum 14K trailer. It has total width with center fold and road vertical but they are not 14K ramps by a long way. I had to beef them up. I can load a JD 3720 with cab, loader, and 5' mower okay.