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carburetor

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Kenfarmall

Member
I put a question on here three days ago about my Farmall H loping and light grey smoke, I put a jar on the end of the overflow pipe, and I do not have compression going in the coolant, my question is how do I check to see if I have coolant getting on top of one of the cylinders. appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks Ken.
 
One way to determine coolant into a cylinder is to top up the radiator, if possible, GENTLY apply some air pressure, only 2-4 PSI to be on the safe side. Otherwise just top it up, let it sit overnight. Pull the plugs, spin it through and watch for coolant to spit out the plug holes.

But if there is no evidence of combustion gasses bubbling up in the radiator, chances are it is good. The combustion pressure trying to get out of the cylinder is way higher than coolant pressure trying to get in.

If there were a bad enough leak to show as coolant out the exhaust, the problem would be easy and obvious to find. It's the microscopic leaks that can be head scratchers.
 
Many times just removing the spark plugs will tell you if you have a cylinder leaking coolant. The one's not leaking will look like normal used sparkplugs, maybe even a bit sooty if idled a lot.
The one or ones leaking coolant will look scrubbed clean with a new look to them. 1st thought on finding one that way is, WOW that plug looks good. Then the realization slowly seeps in, nice and new looking is not normal. Time for time and money.

Good Luck
 
I took the four plugs out and all four were black and sooty, my problem is I have no adjustment on the fuel screw or air screw
I had the tractor idling for 30 minutes the grey smoke did decrease some but the tractor still lopes and still no adjustment on the fuel and air screws. Is it possible i have something wrong in the carburetor because i had it apart to clean it and put new parts in it. I did the shake test on the float and also submerged it in water several times and it come straight to the top of the water each time. Appreciate any help, thanks Ken.
 
(quoted from post at 22:26:31 12/21/19) I took the four plugs out and all four were black and sooty, my problem is I have no adjustment on the fuel screw or air screw
I had the tractor idling for 30 minutes the grey smoke did decrease some but the tractor still lopes and still no adjustment on the fuel and air screws. Is it possible i have something wrong in the carburetor because i had it apart to clean it and put new parts in it. I did the shake test on the float and also submerged it in water several times and it come straight to the top of the water each time. Appreciate any help, thanks Ken.
Click to expand...

Although you've thoroughly cleaned the carb 3 times, it sounds like there is still something stuck in there somewhere. I've had to take a pin vise and small drills to get the junk out on stubborn ones.

Regarding the condition of your head gasket, it seems a compression test is in order.
 
When one cleans a carb they need to do these thing to it or you will miss something.
#1 soak it over night or longer in a good carb cleaner.
#2 blow it out with compressed air.
#3 spray it out with carb cleaner spray
#4 poke out all the passageways with a small wire or as I do I use a torch tip cleaner toll to poke them out with
#5 repeat #2, 3, 4 at least 3 times or more
 
Something is wrong with your carburetor if adjusting the fuel and air screws makes no difference. A loping engine is a sign that it is too rich. If you have no bubbles in a glass of water, your head gasket is good. On some carburetors, the idle needle valve works the opposite, in for rich and out for lean. A float that doesn't quite shut off the gas can also make it run rich, also a float that is adjusted too high.
 
Are you got the governor control rod in the slot for the butterfly? If it's not where it's supposed to be, it will cause unusual issues. jal-SD
 
Just to show you what the big boys use. I have one of these complete "finger drill" sets of drills for my job working with gas equipment. Go from #40-80 The 40 is around a 7/64 drill bit . These are the most precise way to clean the passages. I have gotten more micro little stuck tidbits of crud out of carbs you cannot believe. "The things that screw stuff up". Here is a used set on Ebay and you can see the price is reasonable. All you need to do is work on three or four carbs and get them running perfectly....you will be happy. Just my opinion but that used set sounds really good.
cvphoto429.jpg


cvphoto430.jpg
 
Well unless your stupid or something it is a given one has to take it apart that is what has to be done any time one cleans one out and should have to be said unless one does not have enough brains to be doing it i nth first place
 
I was thinking about the color of your smoke. A engine that is running too rich will put out black smoke, but you say yours is grey. Did you happen to pick up the wrong bucket of fuel and dump in some diesel?? That will make some really purtty white smoke. Don't ask me how I know!
 
I use a set of jewelers drills or modelers drills in those sizes and they are much cheaper. (One set bought at a model train show and the other bought off Ebay. but the same set of drills.)

Just don't loan them to the other mechanic, he will lose some and the rest will come back all mixed up in the holder.
 
You are very correct. Trick is these are so easy to use with those six sided twisty knobs on them. I use them VERY carefully so as not to break any. It is amazing how much tiny little crud you will find in the idle metering passages of a carb. If you don't buy a good set of drills to work on carbs, you are spitting in the wind!
 
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