OT-97 Dodge 1500 fuel issue

A few days ago, I was on my way to town and the pickup was running great like normal. On my way home, the engine started running terrible and just died. It wouldn't start. The engine turned fine with the starter. About an hour later, it started but ran rough then smoothed out so I decided to get it home (about 10 miles.) When I was pulling in the drive way, it died and wouldn't start again. The next day, I started it and it ran good for about 10 minutes then died again at an idle and wouldn't start. I have been told that its the fuel pump but I am not sure. I cant check fuel pressure as there is no pot to do so. My question is, would it be easier to pull the bed or drop the tank. I have never done either so I have no experience with either so any advice would be appreciated. Unfortunately, it has a full tank of fuel. By the way, it is a gas engine. Thanks to all who reply-Mike.

There is a place to check the fuel pressure on that engine.It will have a plastic cap on it like a tire valve stem.You really need to get it plugged in and read the codes.Fuel pumps will never go bad with a low tank,the tank has to be full for them to fail,it's the law.

had a 92 ranger and to replace the fuel pump i determend where the pump was under the bed and took a grinding wheel on my circular and cut through the bed.bent it back and fixed it

You really need to test the pressure before guessing it's the pump.

Some do not have a test port. Is there a code set? It can be self scanned by holding the trip and reset buttons and turning the ign on.

Or plug in a scanner.

Or disconnect the fuel line at the rail and tee in a pressure gauge. Likely Auto Zone will have the kit in their tool loner program.

Or switch the horn and pump relay in the box behind the battery.

If it turns out to be the pump, it can be changed either way, from underneath, or raise the front of the bed. Being it's full, and you probably don't have a lift, I would go for raising the front of the bed. You'll need some manpower, or some way to hoist it up.
Fuel Pressure Test

when it stops running, hurry out and loosen the fuel cap. If you hear a sucking noise, their is a problem with the evap system.

20 year old truck, 15K yearly average mileage, 300,000 mile truck. Replaced the last pump when?
A good evap system will create a minor vacuum in the fuel tank to trap vapors.
Next time it doesn't start, you might get it to go by cycling the key on/off. Listen for the pump to run and repeat this 5 or 6 times. That might allow a weak pump to build enough pressure to start the truck.
PS. Your beyond running on borrowed time.

most have 6 bolts holding the bed on, i just take out the four in the front and loosen the 2 on the rear then jack the front of the bed up. you can stand right there and remove the pump.

Or you can do the "basic test". Find where you check the fuel pressure and push it in with a knife tip - if it sprays out like it has lots of pressure behind it you know the fuel pump is not the issue, if it only dribbles out (or not at all) you know its likely the fuel pump,

Crank sensor is way more common failure on those, and lots cheaper if you're just guessing. There should be a fuel pressure port on the fuel rail of a 97. Rent a fuel pressure gauge. My shop experience has taught me Dodge fuel pumps are pretty sturdy, even when old.

The most expensive way to fix a problem like this is to start replacing parts without doing any sort of troubleshooting. Guaranteed.

It would be less expensive for you to take it to a repair shop.

Troubleshoot, diagnose, or open your wallet. Your choice.

That sure sounds like a crank sensor, do some more troubleshooting.

My experience with electric fuel pumps is they work or they don't. They also seem to fail when the tank is full. I would do some investigation before I settled on that. all of the suggestions posted is a good start

ok I went outside and turned the key on and I heard the fuel pump turn on, it was real fast then off, I turned the key to start and she started then died right away. Tomorrow Me and my son will try to trouble shoot it and see if we can figure it out, The truck has 188,00 miles on it- it is not a daily driver. Thanks to all who replied- mike

I had a 2000 that did the same thing. Ended up being the crank sensor. Held on by 2 10mm bolts on the rear of the motor. 1 wire connector. The bolt on passenger side was easy. The driver's side was a lot harder. My hands were to big and I tried for 2 days to before I called a buddy with small hands. Had it out and in in about an hour.

Well ya did not say what engine . So let me tell you what i went thru with my 03 Dodge Durango . I left the houser to run up town to JUST get a hair cut and three blocks from the house as i pulled away from the stop sign she just died , to make matters worse it had just started raining , Setting in the middle of a busy street dead i called m y buddy and he came in and we got it into a parking lot out of the way . Like you first thought was fuel pump , so i did a quit barn yard test , Nope i had LOTS of fuel as one little push on the schraider valve told me that with gas every where . Quick check on all fueses and relays showed nothing . Called the roll back and go it down to my buddys place and took my scan tool down and plugged it in , The Snap On Solus told me all kind of things that WERE NOT COMMUNICATING with each other and the tail chasen began and everything it said to test/ check was fine . This job was now getting into the fifth beer as we don't do the flat rate hour we work on the flat rate beer per job now . After much testing wire tracing fuel pressure testing We reverted back to OLD SCHOOL and pulled the coil an did a bench test of the coil and the coil was DEAD . Bought a new coil for 14 bucks and it ran and is still running . So check the coil you can do and old school test on the bench .

Sorry- It's a 5.9 engine, -mike

My first guess on 318/360 would be the crank sensor too.

To test for codes all you need to do is cycle the key from off to on 3 times leaving key in on "run" on 3rd time. ( key pos: off/on, off/on, off/on). The ck eng light will flash 2 digit codes, first set of flashes is the 1st digit, then a pause, second set of flashes is 2nd digit. if see a code 12 first ( flash-pause-flash,flash) ignore this code, the final code will be a code 55 this code simply means the end of codes. An OBD-2 code reader will provide a better list of codes vs eng light flashes


If you are careful with a can of starting fluid you can spray it down the throttle body and see if it starts, that will at least tell you if it might be a fuel delivery issue, maybe pump, maybe something else. The best way would be with a fuel pressure test, if it has a test port it will be near the center of the LH fuel injector rail. you want to see approx 45-55 psi.

You can also check for spark by removing a plug wire and/or coil wire, no spark might lead you in the direction of ignition coil, other ign components or crank sensor.

A few minutes Googling says there's no fuel pressure test port on the rail for '97s. However you can buy a T-adapter that goes on the fuel line connection between fuel line and rail; another option is to splice a T-fitting into the rubber crossover line at the back of the intake.

Others are correct in "troubleshoot & diagnose" process; cam and crank sensor failures are much more common; snort of ether when it won't run should quickly confirm/deny whether it's a fuel issue.

It was the fuel pump !! It runs great now. I ended up using a little of everybodys advice and through process of elimination, ordered a fuel pump, lifted the bed, and got it going. Only took 6 hours. Be feeling it in the morning. Thanks for everybodys help-Mike.