mf 35

Good evening tractor aficionados and Happy Holidays to you all ! I have a 1961 MF 35 and she has been running like a top for about two years since I traded a fellow some paint / tune up work for assembling his stitch and glue kayak. Ever since she has been leaking out of the hole in the bottom of the tranny case even though it still has the cotter pin in there( I know it is factory as it is in the manual ) . I thought he had added lighter oil but it seems it is the 90 w mineral oil called for in the spec book. Any thoughts ? Also the throttle lever does NOT rev up the rpm as you would say with your gas pedal of your truck. Meaning it is NOT a smooth even transition from slow to fast but rather an abrupt slow to" faster" that always needs to be reduced to a manageable rpm. I would have to think that this is NOT the normal. What should I be checking ? As always I am grateful for your help as it is you folks who help us keep these great ole' machines running true. Merry Christmas.......JZ

On the oil leak from weep hole. Black oil is engine oil most likely from the rear main seal. Lighter colored (amber/brown) is likely transmission oil from the input shaft seal. Either one requires splitting the tractor to fix.

You mention you have the manual. Which one, service or operator's? Actual Massey Ferguson or other? For your throttle problem I would start by going over all the linkages to be sure they are complete, no missing springs, etc., that they are adjusted by the book and see what that does to it before going deep into it..

how serious is the leak ? a few drops a day or a puddle by days end ? a few drops a day I would not worry unless it truly irritates you. a puddle on the other hand ?.

The operator's manual for my 960 Ford gives the procedure for adjusting the governor/throttle linkage.

The transmission seals are the likely reason for the oil leakage. They deteriorate with age. Not a real big job to replace, but does require splitting the tractor.

If it's a 2 stage clutch, there will be 2 seals to replace. While in there it would be a good idea to take a look at the clutch, release bearing, pilot bearing, and flywheel starter gear.

If you take the clutch out, and it is a 2 stage, you MUST have an alignment tool to get the clutch discs in line to receive the transmission shafts on reassembly. There are also initial adjustment to the clutch assembly before going back together. A shop manual is a very good investment. Stabbing the engine back is difficult under the best conditions, damaging and dangerous otherwise. Best not attempted without the proper equipment to support the engine and back half of the tractor, and a smooth concrete slab to work over.

Assuming this is a gas engine, the governor may be having some mechanical issues. They have a reputation for the ball cage to fail. This is located under the timing cover. But before going into that, try to go through the inspection and adjustment procedure.

For now, lets assume the governor itself is good, and something is just out of adjustment.


Some governor theory:
Incorporated into the linkage is a "governor spring". It's job is to pull the throttle (on the carb) open. Moving the dash lever to the fast position tensions the gov spring. The further it is pushed, the more spring tension, the more RPM.

Inside the governor housing is a cone shaped disc. Inside the disc is a set of spinning "weights" (steel balls). The faster the weights spin, the more force they exert on the cone, pushing it forward. When the cone pushes forward, it moves the governor link, which pushes the throttle closed.

There is a constant balancing act between the spring pulling the throttle open, and the weights pushing it closed.

Let's get started...

With the engine off, set the dash lever to the idle position. Looking at the carb, locate the idle stop screw. The stop screw should be against the stop block, as in the carb is in the idle position, throttle closed. For now, I am assuming the idle adjustment is good, as your post didn't say it was running away or idling too fast.

Next, with the engine off, move the dash lever to full speed. Look at the carb, the throttle should now be wide open, approximately 90* from idle stop position. If it is not, something is binding or out of adjustment.

Start the engine.

Set the dash lever to idle. The engine should be at idle speed.

Bring the engine speed up. Hopefully you have a way to monitor the speed, either the proof meter, or a hand held tach. The max speed should be 2200 RPM. If the RPM is low, look up at the top of the engine, just above the governor. There is a U bolt clamp. Loosen the nuts, turn the lever (without turning the shaft) until the RPM comes up to 2200, tighten the nuts. Cycle the dash lever a few times, watching the RPM, it should return to idle, repeat to 2200 each time.

With the engine running at full governed RPM, hand turn the throttle on the carb to idle, let the engine wind down, then release the throttle, watch what happens.

The throttle should instantly spring wide open, then return as the RPM comes up, and level off at 2200 RPM.

If it will not, something may be wrong inside the governor. You can try adjusting the length of the governor link (the rod between the governor and the carb). But unless something has been previously adjusted or carb work done, the length didn't change by itself.

Inside the governor, there is a cage that guides the spinning weights. The cage is known for coming apart. When it does, the governor becomes erratic, but worse, pieces of the cage can fall into the cam/crank gear, and fall into the oil pan. There is also a pin that can shear where the arm attaches to the shaft.

Lets hope none of that has happened!

When you look it over, make the adjustments, let us know how it goes.
Governor Adjustment

Try copy and search to the link:

C:UsersSteveAppDataLocalTempThrottle-Linkage-Adjustment-1.pdf

Still isn't working.

Not what I wanted, but try this.

There are others too.
Youtube Governor Adjust

Info from MF 35 Manuals...

Bob...Owner MF FE 35 x and other colored Tractors.....