John Deere 1020

jraylong

New User
I recently acquired a JD 1020 gas an am learning it's operation, but have a few questions to ask. The tractor has a front end loader on it, but no hydraulics to operate the bucket. I dump the bucket manually, then have to slap it shut by dropping it and reversing. It works OK, for the horse poop I have to scoop. Anyway, the loader is operated by only (1) hydraulic line, so I guess the oil drains back thru the same line when the loader is lowered. There is another port next to the one feeding the loader, but I think it is also a supply line...No return line...correct?.. Anyway, I want to use the tractor hydraulics to operate a log splitter I have with a bad motor.
I got the special hydraulic coupler cone for the hydraulic feed line to the splitter. The splitter has a diverter valve, but also an oil return line back to it's own reservoir. I need to divert the oil return line back to my 1020, since I'll be using it's oil, but don't know where to run it back into the tractor. I'm thinking that I can simply stick the oil return hose into the hydraulic oil filler port behind the seat., as a temporary measure... I'd like some thoughts if that will be OK, or am I missing something?..Is there a return connection somewhere else that I can tie into?...
 
On my 1020, there is a single remote. On
the rear casing below the hyd fill port,
there is an elbow with a coupler that
simply dumps back into the casing. That
was as I got it so I'm guessing a bit but
suspect you'll find a plug that can be
removed to allow flow back.

As for the loader, the dealer plumbed it
but I believe it is connected under the
right footrest adjacent to the hyd filter.
I'll check and snap a few pics but won't
get a chance until Saturday.
 

jraylong
Welcome to YT.
Your 1020 has closed center hyd system so for tractor hyd's to operate correctly the log splitter control valve needs to have a closed center plug installed or be a dedicated closed center valve. Ideally return oil from log splitter valve needs to be routed to a ported hyd filter cover BUT definitely not returned to hyd filler hole or routed in trans case.
 
Thanks Steve,
So I got anxious and hooked up the log splitter and routed a return line into the filler hole. It worked OK and I managed to split about 1/2 a cord of wood. I did manage to knock the line out a time or two and spill a quart or so of oil. I was out in the horse pasture with it, so it may serve to lube them up a little. I'll look for the inlet port you mentioned. I'm sure I can rig up a nipple and coupling like yours has. I have the filter off the splitter, so can splice it into the return line as Texas Pete suggested. Thanks Guys, for the help...OH..another thing...I notice a small 2 position lever under the seat and next to the hydraulic valve..I looked it up on a picture in an online manual, and think it says "leveler"...What does it do..?
JOHN
 

Does lever under seat you're referring to resemble lever(key 20) in photo? If so it's the load/depth adjustment lever for 3 pt hitch.This lever has 3 settings L,LD & D

May I ask where you attached log splitter valve pressure hose to tractor?

mvphoto46375.png


The best place to return hyd oil from an external control valve is a ported hyd filter cover. Part # for this type filter cover is L55982 which cost $81.02 from JD

mvphoto46376.png
 
Thanks for the help. I attached the pressure line to the hydraulic connection port to the rear of the control valve. There are 2 ports there, both appear to be pressure out. I had to disconnect the front end loader hose, and insert the log splitter hose. I couldn't connect into the second port because it seemed to be malfunctioning and not taking the hose in. Moving the hydraulic control valve to the "lift" position allowed oil to flow to the splitter. I then regulated the splitter at its own valve, but had no place to connect the return line, so simply stuck it into the reservoir fill hole. That worked ok, but I did notice that if I overextended the splitter either up or down, it would kick the tractor hydraulic valve off. I simply reset it to "flow", and continued my work. I supposed that to be a overstress safety system.
I found a "plug" on top the rear case, (about 1" in diameter)about 5" to the left and below the filler cap.. It takes a 1/2" drive ratchet to remove it. I wonder if I couldn't build an adapter there to accept the return oil ?....Then I saw your post advice to buy a part from JD to return oil. so am a bit undecided on what to do. I'm kinda cheap, so wil probably look closely at using the "plugged hole".
.I recently acquired this old tractor, so am working the "bugs" out of it and learning as I go. I have been having another problem. When I am working the tractor hard with a brush hog, it will just quit on me. After a 15 minute wait, it will start up and work some more, but then will quit again. The dash lights don't come on until I wait it out, so some sort of a timed delay. I think that I've tracked the problem to a 20 amp circuit breaker in the main electrical feed line from the coil to the ignition switch. I had it out and cleaned dirt and grime off it and thought I had it fixed until it happened again 3 times yesterday. I finally got disgusted and jumpered the fuse so I could get it home from the "back 40". Today, I plan to go to an auto parts store and get a replacement thinking that mine may be old and weak. I see where Bussman makes a 25 amp one, so think I'll try that. Any othernthoughts?
 

At the very least plug both log splitter hoses into both ports on the SCV.
If the 2nd hose will not plug in. Either there is pressure on the tractor side or the log splitter side . Or the guts of the ports are stuck and need to move lengthways in the body. Tap with a hammer and proxy bar after soaking with penetrating oil.
As for the dealer routing the hydraulic oil directly back into the transmission case from the splitter . Next time you see him , give him a good swift kick on the a s s .
With an open Center plug in the splitter valve . The tractor closed Center hydraulics will be pumping max output at all times and running the front pump into cavitation .
Should not be too much of a job to route a second set of oil lines from the SCV to the other side of the loader lift cylinders .
This will supply down pressure AND prevent the hydraulic oil lever from being drawn low in the transmission .
Keep an eye open and even advertise on the local classified adds . There will be another loader around somewhere cheap with a joystick and a hydraulic bucket .
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top