Pictures of your trailer ramps

Hi all I would like some pics if your
trailer ramps. I would like to see all the
different designs that are out there before
I build a set.mine are four foot long and
way to steep I think seven foot long would
be long enough. The back of the trailer is
twenty eight inches high.as you can see in
the pic there not long enough or strong
enough.
cvphoto43572.jpg


cvphoto43573.jpg
 
My ramps are similar to yours around 4 ft. My ramps have the angle up for more traction. I think 7 ft will bend easier. Can you raise the ball on the truck to make it easier to load? Stan
 
Sorry that I do not have a current photo of the rear of my bumper pull. It has some stand up ramps that are held up by a sway bar rather than a chain. I added a set of LED tail lights about half way up the ramps that pigtailed into the existing tail lights. Used lots of reflective tape on the sides and the rear of the ramps when they are elevated. Made a huge difference! My ramps can be removed, but that is seldom called for. Be safe. Don
 
Mine are 1-1/2 x 3" channel, and are about 5' long off a beaver tail. Cross members are 1/8 x 2 x 2 angle as shown in yours. They work fine for me. Also have the leg that prevents the trailer from depressing down too far when loading something. The longer you make yours, the stronger the two main beams need to be.

Do yourself a favor during your re-construction & install a torsion spring on each ramp to help get them upright. Did that last year to mine. Ramps are nearly neutral weight once they touch the ground. Fa-a-a-a-r easier to get them upright, and, for that matter, lower.

Pete
 
The longer the ramp the more it needs to be channel not angle,personally I don't want a ramp made out of angle, only channel unless its for something like lawnmowers.
 
What ever you do remember that each additional foot of length requires double the strength to carry the same weight. 7' ramps are very long and a 3" channel won't load much weight. A small utility tractor with a brush mower is going to tax them.
 
I have some long ramps,when I use them I block them in the middle.I have a nice car trailer that I haul my Bobcat on sometimes,it carries it nicely,but I don't like the way it bends behind the rear axle when loading.So I block the tail of that too.I have cut to size blocks that ride in the middle of the trailers all the time.
 
[i:654c4848f0]I have some long ramps,when I use them I block them in the middle.I have a nice car trailer that I haul my Bobcat on sometimes,it carries it nicely,but I don't like the way it bends behind the rear axle when loading.So I block the tail of that too.I have cut to size blocks that ride in the middle of the trailers all the time.[/i:654c4848f0]

Here's my solution to that problem.
jack1.jpg

jack2.jpg
 
I like the cleats you put on your dove/beaver tail. That looks like a good idea. Asked awhile ago about ramps and d/b drops on an equipment I was wanting to buy do my J/D 5203. I like your setup.
 


It looks like you should be asking of pics of beavertails instead of ramps. If you cut it off and made it ten inches longer and steeper your ramps would be just right. That beavertail is so short and flat that it is worthless.
 
The factory ramps to my dump trailer are like yours with exception they angle iron is flipped over. You only drive on the vertex of the angle. My ramps are close to 7 ft long. Ramps weigh too much for me to lift. So I made a pair of 10 ft ramps out of 2x12 with 2x4 screwed to sides. I only haul the Kawasaki mule to dealer with dump trailer. Wood ramps work very well. Also can use trailer for lawn mowers.

The ramps on my implement trailer are about 5 ft long. The angle of the ramps matches the angle of the dovetail. I made knees to prevent my 4640# lawn roller from listing the rear wheels of truck off the ground. Driving up my ramps is a scary. Front wheels on tractor get a little light.

One time I tried backing up the ramps. When the rear wheels hit the wet wood dovetail, I stopped, tires spun.
Now I have dovetail covered with expanded metal.
 
7 foot ramps will be heavy for lifting. I have a step deck trailer I have 10 foot ramps on with a 40 inch Deck height. They are a bit steep for some people though If any longer I couldn't lift them. They are 4 inch channel with 2inch angle in them. The channels are 3/8th's backbone in them. The only time I have a problem is when I exceed the weight of a 1466 on them. The only time things get strange is loading steel tracks. Right at the break from ramp to trailer deck. I use a couple of old tires for the tracks to bite on when making that part.
I also have a set for going from the bottom deck to the top deck. Those are 5 foot I think. I use one of them for the center loading narrow front tractors. Looks funny with the short ramp for the front end. Back starts up the ramp then the front pops up higher than the rear all of a sudden.
 
The angle treads were like that when I bought it. The heaviest thing I will load is a skidsteer weighs around 6000 pounds.
 
Rick. At 7 foot long ramps, you might need an extra strong man to help lift up. My experience was that long was too heavy. Lol
 
This trailer only had two ramps when we bought it.

The ramp on the left buckled on one side while loading a Model 70.

Added the additional support rails underneath on both sides of both ramps.

Was using a wooden ramp in the center, but it was very "tricky" with the row crop front on the heavier tractors.

Center ramp was added for "smarter" loading ability.

When loading a tractor, the trailer is positioned on the downhill side of a terrace.

The loading ramps are then level horizontally with each other and the angle of the dove tail is not very steep.

We always load and unload with the trailer downhill at our farm.
 
The one with the cab us a L3600 the other bigger one is a L4310 and the smallest is a b2620 it also has a loader and a 5ft yard mowing deck
 

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