Allis Chalmers EB

Hi all,
Today I picked up a Allis Chalmers EB
I don't really know much about Allis Chalmers tractors, so I will need some advice.
Where do I find the serial number?
This tractor has no brakes, there is only one brake band.
I would eventually like to restore this tractor, This is an ex boat tractor hence all the rust
What do you recommend for removal of the rust? I don't have a sand blaster.
I'm sure that the pictures will give you more of an idea!
Thanks for your time!
Samuel.

https://postimg.cc/gallery/2bce9rf16/83fb05e1/
https://postimg.cc/gallery/2bce9rf16/83fb05e1/
 
Hi all,
Today I picked up a Allis Chalmers EB.
I don't really know much about Allis Chalmers tractors, so I will need some advice.
Where do I find the serial number?
This tractor has no brakes, there is only one brake band.
I would eventually like to restore this tractor, This is an ex boat tractor hence all the rust.
What do you recommend for removal of the rust? I don't have a sand blaster.
I'm sure that the pictures will give you more of an idea!
Thanks for your time!
Samuel.
https://postimg.cc/gallery/2bce9rf16/83fb05e1/
 
Look for the serial number, on top of the transmission, right in front of the shifter. That is where my B, C , and CA serial numbers are. The number should start with the model of the tractor, such as B,C, or CA, and in your case EB, though I have never seen a EB, but your pictures look like a B. Go to serial numbers on the left, top , of your screen, and find out what you have.
 
Thank you.
The plate says EB104374
20191130-193212.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/FKtwN3cw/20191130 193212.jpg
 
The British built tractors were stamped with the searial number EB. They were built at Essendine from 1950 to 1954 when the were replaced by the D270 MJ
 
The serial number makes it a 1950 tractor. The transmissions were shipped from the US already stamped and the Factory in Britain added an ?E? prefix.
 
I use a 4" grinder with a knotted wire cup to remove rust. Make sure the wire wheel is Knotted and not Straight. The Straight wire cups will throw all the wire at you. The Knotted cups last a long time.
 
I had the knotted wheel once and threw it away. The knotted wheel if you happen to touch it there will be no meat left on your bone, the other type yes you would have some skin damage but you would still have your body and the few wires that might break off is a lot less dammaging to your body than the knotted type. They should only be allowed in a completely covered location that you cannot possibly get sucked into. The straight wire will do what is needed safer.
 
Hi all!
Thanks for all the help and info!
I have started pulling it apart, and my older brother (19) pulled the distributor cap off the magneto, and found that the rotor was extremely rusty on the conductive end, so he cleaned the rust off with some 600 sandpaper, and it ran beautifully!

Before it barely was running on 2 cylinders, and you could hardly start off in 1st! Now I can start off in 3rd!

It starts up on 2-3 cranks!!!

I have cleaned up the front axle a bit to see how it was, not much holding it together!

The only thing holding me up now is the fuel tank fell off Allis when I was driving and snapped the pipe going to the fuel bowl.

I would like to get a starter motor for Allis at some point.

I have attached some more pictures.

https://postimg.cc/gallery/2ns2vurfe/fd44d11d/

Thanks,
Samuel
Untitled URL Link
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top