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too cold to install shingles?

glennster

glennster

Well-known Member
i have an old wooden tool shed at the other farm, 30 by 54. shingle roof over plank underlayment. a roofer was supposed to tear off, re deck and re roof in october but he got backed up. he wants to start in a couple weeks, putting it in mid december here in north central illinois. i kind of think it is going to be way to cold to roof. i am having architectural shingles put on. no, i am not putting a metal roof on. to keep it tractor related, there is a 1942 farmall m, john deere 14t baler , john deere number 5 sickle mower, ih model 26 rotary mower a slip scoop and a 3 point landscape rake. here is a couple pics of the shed. yeah its old, but so am i.
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The hails here have them Still redoing roofs here in NE Wyoming,, stupid to me with the wind we get as no way will they stick the adhesive before a storm blows snow under them in my opinion,, but they had over 45,000 roofs to do since the storms this summer so it takes a while,, as far as doing the work its self no problem to me its the fact they will never get correctly glued down, seen it happen many times here
 


I wouldn't try it with cheapie 3 tabs, but architectural shingles are allegedly much higher quality and I've seen them put on when it was snowing. I'd use steel myself, but maybe you can get a written guarantee from the contractor.
 
Our neighbors had a tree go through their roof last August, had a tarp on it since then, all the contractors were busy, can't get enough help. They finally put all new shingles on it last week, but it was 25+, so that shouldn't be a problem, but they probably won't stick together till next summer. Why are't you putting steel on it? That'w what I would do!
 
Glennster,

We'd only have it roofed when it's warm enough that the shingles would seal down decently.
 
I purchased a house a little over a year ago that had a couple skylights which had been known to leak. I wanted to eliminate the potential leak problem, so I had the skylights removed and the opening roofed over. This was done in November last year. I was concerned as to whether the shingles would seal, but so far, no problems. I'm about 100 miles south of you.
 
You can put shingles on all year. When it's too hot they tear when you're walking on them. When it's too cold they crack when you're walking on them. All either is going to do is shorten the lifespan. Any damages won't show up until extreme weather hit's and it's always blamed on the weather. My brother had a roof reshingled a couple weeks ago when we had the artic blast come through. Architectural shingles but it ain't pretty. Ends are pooching up in a bunch of places.

If it was me and it just had to be done I would even knowing I wouldn't get the optimum life span but if I could wait I would.
 
The only real risk is that the roof won't get hot enough to seal the shingles. It looks like you have one roof that runs east-west and the other runs north-south. The north-south roof will probably get enough sun to melt the glue strip, but I'd be a bit concerned about the north side of the east-west roof. If you're in doubt, the roofers can put a bit of roofing cement under each shingle, something they will no doubt be loathe to do. But check the instructions for the particular brand of shingles, because most require "hand sealing" with roofing cement on steep roofs, anyway. Here's what I found in the <a href="https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/7f/7fc44fd5-6153-482e-a1d5-c40c2affe089.pdf">GAF Timberline instructions</a>:

[i:654c4848f0]WIND RESISTANCE/HAND SEALING: These shingles have a special thermal sealant that firmly bonds the shingles together after application when exposed to sun and warm temperatures. Shingles installed in fall or winter may not seal until the following spring. If shingles are damaged by winds before sealing or are not exposed to adequate surface temperatures, or if the self-sealant gets dirty, the shingles may never seal. Failure to seal under these circumstances results from the nature of self-sealing shingles, and is not a manufacturing defect. If shingles are to be applied during PROLONGED COLD periods or in areas where airborne dust or sand can be expected before sealing occurs, the shingles MUST be hand sealed. See Nailing Instructions / Hand Sealing.

MANSARD AND STEEP SLOPE APPLICATIONS: For roof slopes greater than 21" per foot (1750mm/m), shingle must be hand sealed. DO NOT use on vertical side walls.[/i:654c4848f0]
 
6 years ago, I shoveled 6" of snow off my brothers roof so we could shingle over existing in early Dec. in SE MI. It was sunny and 25 the day I shoveled and all the ice underneath melted. We shingled the next day. Frost in the morning but sunny and 40 that day. 6 years later and no problems with that roof. I would let them go. FYI: I know you said no steel, but I put steel over the shingles on my 2 barns an house for what a contractor was going to charge me to re-shingle the 2 barns. That was for the cost of the metal and me (62) doing the work and paying my 2 sons to help. That barn would be simple to put steel on.
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Sorry, I missed the re-decking part of your post. Disregard the FYI part of my post. I was assuming what was under the shingles was good. I would still let them go. If your old enough not to do the work, Your certainly old enough not to have to worry about how long it lasts and I'm sure the warranty will cover you until it is warm enough for them to self seal.
 
We shingled my son's new house with 40 year architectural shingles in December in southern Wisconsin, and re-shingled the ones that blew off at the end of January, using a small dab of roof cement under each new one we put on. Lots of work, lots of extra shingles. Your call....
 
those type shingles I would wait or have put tin on and be done, I agree with you I do not like the tin on houses and garages, but that shed out by its self like that tin would go on hands down
 
Just last saturday took my Amis friend that is a contractor to look at a house roof about reshingling. It was decided to wait till spring to do the job. 20+ years ago hauling a different carpenter crew, they are now too old to be doing that work, but they shoveled the snow off the roof to put shingles on. I have no idea how they lasted but the owner was a d head. Found out that he rented scafolding in my name for the job, that would have put the liability on me if the wind would have blown that scafolding on the new cars in dealer lot next door. Talked to rental company about that and they got the rental out of my name. The building that roof was put on was the building where the footballs for the supper bowl were being made in and I saw a bit of that being done. Since that time they have moved to a different building. But me I would not do the roof untill spring. Just moving stored shingles in the cold they would try to bend and crack.
 
Shingles have gotten to be so poorly made nowadays, only folks that put shingles on a roof around me are, folks that are just fixing to sell, companies that are in the house building business and trying to keep cost down, and poor folks that can?t afford the extra cost of a metal roof. I see new homes being built and roofs shingled all winter long in new subdivisions. Must work
 
Wait until spring and do it right. Way to easy to make a mess out of the roof this time of year. Given how long you've already waited what's another 4 months?
 
As mentioned the main concern would be with the shingles not sealing down due to cold temperatures and then having wind damage before they get properly sealed down. If the building gets a fair amount of sun this time of the year it might be okay. I have heard about people roofing a barn years ago in the winter and heating the roofing nails on the wood stove so they would go through the shingles better with out cracking shingles.
 
I had my house shingles done in Oct one year. Had several 70+ degree days. But the first hard wind we had ripped a good portion of them off. Wait.
 
I?m in Minnesota so my perspective is different, but I would sure be concerned with a shingle install done in December. They need some heat to seal themselves down to each other, and here we get a lot more cold and wind than we get heat, the sun is so low up here I would nix that deal here.

Can?t say in a southern location like yours?

Paul
 
Smart move not installing a metal roof. There is only one guarantee on a metal roof. They all leak.
 
WGM ..... good point ..... for those that have their homes with metal roofs, I wonder if leakage like you mention is an issue? If it is, I can't imagine going that way, a shed or barn is one thing, a house is another. Meanwhile though, I've always thought the colors available for roof metal are somewhat too bright and brilliant for a roof color. I haven't seen too many metal roofs that have what one might call a subtle color. Most I've seen sort of jump right out at you.
 
My understanding of how shingles bond is that it takes heat for the tar strips to stick to the next overlapping shingle. Shingles can heat up like an iron rod with sunshine on them and one day of sun will bond them . I wouldn't hesitate to roof on a sunny day at any time of year.
 
Except if they are flapping in the wind for a couple days all it takes is a little dust ruin the adhesive strip and it will never stick no matter how hot they get. Had a whole section of my roof that ruined that way. After a month I went up on a calm day and put a streak of tar under each flap and pressed it flat. They then held - only spent 5-6 hours doing it.
 
I personally think the trust in steel roofing is overdone, my shed roof is 5 years old and leaks, house had 15 year roof, no leaks.

Sure, maybe the steel is good for 50 years, but not the screw gaskets.
 
For all the naysayers: He's having 'architectural shingles' laid. These are naturally stiffer because of the second, random layer. Having spent several years roofing, I can vouch for doing it in the cold rather than in the summer when your feet can tear up the surface. BTW, my own roof was put on by me 28 years ago using a swing stapler and haven't lost any pieces yet. NEVER use OSB for a substrate; it won't hold nails or staples.
 
I built my pole barn in the winter. I had to shovel the snow off sections of roof a couple times to finish the shingles. I used 3 tab, as that's what was on the house and garage. I built it in 2000, and haven't lost a shingle yet.

I do remember warming up the ridge cap shingles next to the wood stove so they would bend over the ridge...
 
We just had the house re-roofed a couple of weeks ago. The roofer wanted 45 and rising or they wouldn't do it. We caught two good days in a row. A little over half a day to put them on then that day and the next with some warmth. The third day we had a big front come through with gusts up to 40 mph and didn't lose anything off the roof. Our old house has 1 x 7 wood decking.

I thought about R panel type metal roof but you start from day one with holes in it from the screws. My 40 year old shop roof has water stains on the rafters where the screws are and seep in the rain. Time for new screws.

We get so much heat in the summer that the metal roof "grows" a lot. The main problem may be a metal roof on a wood frame; different expansion rates. Metal on metal may not be an issue.

I wonder if standing seam metal with the concealed fasteners solves the problem. I don't know anyone that has one though.
 
It can be too hot to put shingles on but not too cold. In hot weather the shingles get soft and you can damage them walking on them. It sounds more like a comfort issue with the roof installer.
 
David,
Be warned some YT people hate me for pointing out the shortcomings of metal.

That said my contractor doesn't want to put shingles on the pole barn I'm going to soon have contracted. Was going to put fanfold under metal as moisture barrier. For $500 more
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spray foam.
The insulation company said I'll never remove the metal. That's why I'm going with foam. Metal can't move. Screws and work work lose. Wind won't remove metal.

I hope I don't regret metal. But after seeing BILs mancave I caved in.
George
 
Two reasons a metal roof leaks poor materials or poor workmanship or both.Metal roof has been on my house for 20 years and on my 16X50 porch for about 10 years no problem with either.Metal roof has been on the other house on the farm since 1902 with no problems except paint it every so often.
 
If you could get the old T lock shingles I would do it. We put dads roof on in December back in the 80's. Put them in by the wood stove on the floor to warm up so they wouldn't crack when nailed. One would nail the other would carry them up in arm loads. If I was caught up I would slip them in place to be nailed as quickly as possible.
I would not waste my time with 3in1's just blow off. Steel screwed on the rib tops and done right does not leak.
 
What are you basing that statement on. I have seen standing seam roofs that are decades old not leak at all.
 
Regarding steel roofs: It's a matter of personal preference whether to use shingles or metal. But a metal roof is going to look like a metal roof (unless you spend a lot of money on one of the steel roofing systems that look like shingles), and not everyone likes the look of a metal roof. So I prefer shingles, but if you're OK with the appearance of steel, that's your business.

But as for the statements that "all steel roofs leak", that's simply not true. Standing seam roofs will not leak if installed correctly, even on roofs with little or no pitch. And there are plenty of exposed-screw roofs that don't leak. But they must be installed correctly. The problem, I think, is that the screws need to be installed using screwguns with depth-sensitive clutches, and most DIYers don't do that. I suspect a lot of contractors don't use the right drivers, either. If you install the screws with a regular screwgun or impact driver, the screws WILL BE overtightened. This destroys the rubber washer under the screw head, making leaks inevitable.
 

You are wise to not use metal. The metal is good for 40 years but the screws for only 20. Too much expansion and contraction. Standing seam is the best but not when you are in your seventies or eighties.
 
Too hot will damage shingles but too cold will also do it. Just an extra bundle I had laying and had to move, too cold and they cracked and seperated on the double thickness type.
 
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